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Old 01-16-2021, 06:43 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by soarak View Post
Your usage pattern does not seem compatible with DP for two reasons:
1) you will not drive it enough to make sure the engine and the fuel system does not accumulate sludge. A DP needs to be driven a lot to be problem free. The less you drive the more problems you will have. Corrosion in a diesel engine will set in much faster than in a gas engine.
2) it makes no sense economically considering you are not paying cash for it.
This might change if you are close to retirement.

Also, I might get a lot of argument on the next statement I am going to make, but the gas class A can be a safer option. A DP has most of the weight behind you (30k-40k) and more, and very little reinforcement in the front. The mount for the generator and generator itself adds very little integrity to the chassis. On the other hand in a gas class A you have an engine and a solid frame to support it. There is a lot that needs to be crashed before you get crashed.

Looking at RV crashes videos and pictures is eye opening. Think about that as well. You don't need to make a mistake to end up in a crash.
All I can say is 99% incorrect...about the same % as the 9 posts why next MH will be a gasser, something less than 38’.
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Old 01-16-2021, 10:00 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by MichaelInNM View Post
Good points. I’d like a class a diesel tag axle. We would use it at least 2-3 days a month and a couple weeks in summer. Maybe a few additional trips.
Depending on how close you are to using the motorhome a lot more than you're currently planning and how many people you will have along on each trip, I'd agree with going gas for a couple of reasons:

Once you're parked they both ride the same. That's not nearly as idiotic as it first sounds. Unless you're planning on 500 miles driving a day, a gasser can be fine. We drive about 300 miles maximum a day to follow the adage of getting parked by 3 PM so we're not setting up in the dark, especially if it's just an overnight stay. Arriving late and leaving early wears you out fast.

You can buy newer and more in gas. We bought a new 2020 38' gasser with 1 1/2 baths and the RV King bed for about $125K including sales tax. We added about $4,000 in suspension and handling upgrades, some of which are no longer needed if you buy a 2021 on the new Ford V8 chassis.

Don't pooh-pooh the 1/2 bath. My wife gets the rear full bath and I have the half-bath. We're parked with several people who full time and they all have said "We only have one bathroom..." Counter space may be lacking in some.

For just two of us, with two large dogs, we have plenty of room. We have opposing front slides and that gives us a full six feet of clear floor space in the main living area/kitchen. We typically are gone from home for between four and five months in the winter.

A gasser's maintenance costs are less. I can do my own 7-quart oil changes. The people with DP's in this campground have over a dozen gallons of oil and their oil filter costs $60. Some maintenance will be calendar-based and not just mileage-based.

The big disadvantage of a Class A gasser to me is its limited towing capacity. You're looking at between 4,000 and 5,000 pounds of towed vehicle. If you need to tow a lot more you're going DP. Or need to consider buying a gasser and a different car; that will still be cheaper than a newer DP. Climbing and descending real mountains also favors a DP but you should balance that with how much of your driving will actually be in those conditions.

The older you buy the more problems you will have unless you receive solid maintenance records and have them validated by a third-party inspection. The wiring, the plumbing, the chassis and everything associated with it, everything, is as old as the coach is. Even if you do get solid records, the thing is still old(er). Stuff breaks with increased age, just like with people.

Yes, we'd love to have a DP as well. But the incremental improvements are not worth the non-incremental cost increase for the initial acquisition and upkeep to us. We'd rather spend extra money on the experiences while traveling.

If you would explain your RV experience that can help people adjust their comments. Maybe you have decades and are fully aware of what you're getting into, maybe not. We have no way to know.

Good luck,

Ray
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Old 01-16-2021, 10:29 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by MichaelInNM View Post
I’d like a class a diesel tag axle.
Did y’all miss this^^^??? Having made the mistake of starting to small because 36’ was supposedly max for public CGs, I learned the expensive way that’s not true and you should buy more RV than you think you need...ONE TIME!

Yes, there are now a few gas rigs pushing 40’ long, but they have very little CCC and limited towing capacity... doubt the OP owns a small car.

Not sure where the BS...a diesel needs to be used or they will give problems comes from. A Diesel engine is the only one that can sit for 10 years, yet start in less than 2 turns... I’ve done that several times.

OP, if I weighed 350, I would still get on my roof. If it’s so poorly made that you have to be less than 200 to walk on the roof...walk from the purchase.

It wasn’t difficult to learn the OP is a newbie but he’s done a fair amount of research and is willing to spend the money for a DP which is necessary for a rig 40’ or longer. There’s also a good possibility they’ll like the RV lifestyle that the usage will be even more than what he posted.

And while I’m on a roll “ I've heard $5k-20k in ongoing annual costs is to be expected.” has NOT been my experience based on 20 years of used DP ownership BUT I do my own maintenance and repairs.

PS. NRX, was “ Don't pooh-pooh the 1/2 bath” a pun?
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Old 01-16-2021, 10:35 AM   #18
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Looks like you’re getting plenty of mileage out of this but I’ll chime in

$170k 10 yrs 5.25 $1824/mo. Increase the term and/or lower the rate and the loan amount goes up and/or the payment goes down. Lots of options.

But given the planned usage you might be better off renting. Less annual cost (you’re talking almost 50k per year for payments, insurance, and routine maintenance alone) and someone else gets to put tires on it, pay for maintenance, insure it, and pay to fix it WHEN it breaks. As mentioned above, repairs are less predictable and can get really expensive if something big breaks.
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Old 01-16-2021, 10:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NXR View Post
Depending on how close you are to using the motorhome a lot more than you're currently planning and how many people you will have along on each trip, I'd agree with going gas for a couple of reasons:

Once you're parked they both ride the same. That's not nearly as idiotic as it first sounds. Unless you're planning on 500 miles driving a day, a gasser can be fine. We drive about 300 miles maximum a day to follow the adage of getting parked by 3 PM so we're not setting up in the dark, especially if it's just an overnight stay. Arriving late and leaving early wears you out fast.

You can buy newer and more in gas. We bought a new 2020 38' gasser with 1 1/2 baths and the RV King bed for about $125K including sales tax. We added about $4,000 in suspension and handling upgrades, some of which are no longer needed if you buy a 2021 on the new Ford V8 chassis.

Don't pooh-pooh the 1/2 bath. My wife gets the rear full bath and I have the half-bath. We're parked with several people who full time and they all have said "We only have one bathroom..." Counter space may be lacking in some.

For just two of us, with two large dogs, we have plenty of room. We have opposing front slides and that gives us a full six feet of clear floor space in the main living area/kitchen. We typically are gone from home for between four and five months in the winter.

A gasser's maintenance costs are less. I can do my own 7-quart oil changes. The people with DP's in this campground have over a dozen gallons of oil and their oil filter costs $60. Some maintenance will be calendar-based and not just mileage-based.

The big disadvantage of a Class A gasser to me is its limited towing capacity. You're looking at between 4,000 and 5,000 pounds of towed vehicle. If you need to tow a lot more you're going DP. Or need to consider buying a gasser and a different car; that will still be cheaper than a newer DP. Climbing and descending real mountains also favors a DP but you should balance that with how much of your driving will actually be in those conditions.

The older you buy the more problems you will have unless you receive solid maintenance records and have them validated by a third-party inspection. The wiring, the plumbing, the chassis and everything associated with it, everything, is as old as the coach is. Even if you do get solid records, the thing is still old(er). Stuff breaks with increased age, just like with people.

Yes, we'd love to have a DP as well. But the incremental improvements are not worth the non-incremental cost increase for the initial acquisition and upkeep to us. We'd rather spend extra money on the experiences while traveling.

If you would explain your RV experience that can help people adjust their comments. Maybe you have decades and are fully aware of what you're getting into, maybe not. We have no way to know.

Good luck,

Ray
A lot of wisdom here.....
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Old 01-16-2021, 11:15 AM   #20
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This “used RV financing” can be quite the interesting undertaking.

That being said, these days, it seems almost any one that’s above room temperature can get an RV loan. The real question is, How much will it cost you (% down, interest rate & fees) & how long of a term will they offer?

The answer to these questions is determined by your FICO score, the age of the rig (some lenders won’t finance anything older than ~2009), how much you’re borrowing, how much you’re putting down and how much they like you that day.

Generally speaking; the older the rig, lower loan amount and lower FICO score = higher interest rates & fees.

The newer the rig, the more borrowed & the better FICO score = lower interest rates & fees.

The term of the loan (4, 5, 7, 10, 15 or 20 years) is largely determined by the age of the rig & the amount being borrowed. And yes, you can get 20 year financing.

In today’s environment it appears possible to get interest rates in the 4% range for a highly qualified/high dollar borrower. It’s also possible to see interest rates in excess of the 14% range for those on the other end of the spectrum.

You need to know who you are as a borrower & what the lender thinks of you/your deal.
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Old 01-16-2021, 12:03 PM   #21
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To answer the OP's question, using an online loan calculator shows a financed amount of $240,000 at 4.5% for 15 years coming in a hair bit over $1,800 a month. Adding a down payment of $40,000 to the $240,000 financed gets a total drive out price of about $280,000. Total interest paid going the full term would be a little over $90,000.

Have no idea what experience the OP has with RVs or why he's wanting a tag. My opinion, going with what I've read so far (he using it 2 or 3 times a month, couple of weeks in summer), is that a tag DP may be overkill and end up being something he regrets being stuck with.
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Old 01-16-2021, 01:03 PM   #22
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Okay, so we have the credit scores near 800. We have $40k-$50k in cash. We can easily afford $1800 payment. We plan on buying used.

Please help me understand what price range we should be looking in?

I know the folks that say if you can’t pay cash you don’t need it. Well, I’m financing. Probably 15-20 years too. I just have to find a way to get some peaceful vacation...

Edit: looking at class a diesel, tag axle preferred, under 10 years old.
I know you asked for a price range, but I'm Just curious. You don't mention if you have even driven a motorhome or owned any RV. How did you arrive at a DP with a tag choice? It's hard to offer valid recommendations without knowing more. A DP w/tag less than 10 years old for 2-3 times a month plus 2 weeks in the summer would be 42 of the most costly vacation days one could have. As others have said, renting would get you a taste of the RV life. Also, 36-38' gas coach would make more sense. Less cost, less maintenance, less depreciation, less insurance and the same view when you're relaxing at your campsite. I wish you the best in your search for a enjoyable vacation escape.
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Old 01-16-2021, 01:06 PM   #23
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Whatever you buy, gas, diesel, new, used, tag or not, if you drop $200K you’re going to lose another $1800/mo in depreciation for something that is mostly sitting around. Your operating expenses will be relatively low with the minimal use that you have proposed. Once you start using it regularly, it’s not difficult to spend $1000/mo on fuel and $1000/mo at RV resorts.

Will you be parking the coach on your property? Will you be building a garage to store it? Will you be paying for storage?

It sounds like you’re still working. If that’s the case, I’d recommend that you consider jumping in at a lower price point. Lower payment, less depreciation. Invest the rest and get that big diesel when you’ll have time to use it.
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Old 01-16-2021, 05:25 PM   #24
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PS. NXR, was “ Don't pooh-pooh the 1/2 bath” a pun?
Ha ha, no, but it sure would have been a good one. My point was that while many people say "We don't need two bathrooms!", many will decide later on that they do. Many people are still OK with a single bath, but if you're one of those that changes their mind later, you don't have many options but to upgrade to get it.

I do agree with the "buy as much as you can afford" advice or the "buy your second motorhome first" advice. We upgraded from a 10' pop-up to a 38' Class A and we have talked with people who bought too small for some seemingly valid reason, but soon decided they needed to go larger. They took a really large financial hit, often in the first year or two.

Buy for how you will use the motorhome the most. Many of the people who bought "too short" did so because they'd heard that there were some parks or campgrounds that would not accept a longer motorhome. They bought for an occasional need and that limited them at every campground.

The comment about how expensive each night is when you do not use the motorhome much is spot on. At the end of our second four-month winter trip we'll be down to about $500 a night, excluding the fuel, campground fees, maintenance, food, etc. costs

So we're getting down to Disney World on-site hotel per-night costs and we're now actually less than "Four Seasons on Maui" per-night costs!

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Old 01-16-2021, 05:34 PM   #25
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I definitely don’t want to do that math....
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:03 PM   #26
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All I can say is 99% incorrect...about the same % as the 9 posts why next MH will be a gasser, something less than 38’.
Very insightful post, worth ignoring, except maybe you can benefit from some education.

https://www.bulktransporter.com/flee...y-consequences
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:19 PM   #27
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Soarak,
To state that a Diesel has huge problems from long term storage makes little sense. There are thousands of diesels that sit unused for many months at a time ( boats, farm equip, const equip, etc. ) and they start and go to work on demand. I see you don't have an RV listed. Are you speaking from experience or just quoting what you have heard or read ?
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:31 PM   #28
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Very insightful post, worth ignoring, except maybe you can benefit from some education.

https://www.bulktransporter.com/flee...y-consequences
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Soarak,
To state that a Diesel has huge problems from long term storage makes little sense. There are thousands of diesels that sit unused for many months at a time ( boats, farm equip, const equip, etc. ) and they start and go to work on demand. I see you don't have an RV listed. Are you speaking from experience or just quoting what you have heard or read ?
Oh Boy!
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