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Old 05-08-2021, 08:38 AM   #155
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Exterior Buff and wax...

Another project on the list this summer is to buff out all the oxidized gel coat and wax this thing! Huge project I know but I started to figure out what is going to work best. I already had a bunch of random buffing compounds, waxes, etc. but I wanted to find the best way to do this so i did some testing. I tried several brands and types of compounds and waxes. You can see the small round test area I did to start, it is absolutely amazing how much shine can come out with a little compound and wax!

The old vinyl stripes are terrible. They streak and leave a mess and don't really get "shiny" but do clean up quite a bit and I am not going to remove them all and repaint anytime soon. The key I found it to do those areas first as they tend to leave some dark staining on the gel coat around them. You have to use a buffing pad just for dark areas, and just for gel coat areas is what I found works best or you would just smear dark crap all over the cream colored gel coat. For waxing the same thing, dark wax pad on dark, light wax pad on light areas.

The magic solution I found works best is as follows:

1. Buff old stripes with Mequiar's Ultimate Compound, wipe clean

2. Buff gel coat areas with compound, wipe clean

3. Use Meguiar's Hi Tech yellow wax #26 on all surfaces, buff out with clean towel

The results are pretty dang good. I will be happy with that.

For the wheels I found the White Diamond compound to work the best. The results again are pretty stunning. This whole thing is going to take me weeks at best, all summer at worst. I will just do what I can in my spare time. I have other projects that I need to work on and a few things to prep for the memorial weekend trip so this really isn't a high priority even though I want to just spend all weekend doing it and be done!
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Old 05-08-2021, 12:25 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbluesky View Post

Thanks Piker, I feel like a was just followed by a iRV celebrity Your posts are pretty epic, I will try to keep up and hopefully years later still here posting updates on all our adventures!
"iRV celebrity..." That's pretty funny right there.

Just a couple notes - on the tranny issue, I cannot stress enough the importance of clean connections and also grounds as guardrail noted. The Allison is very sensitive to fluctuations in voltage, and also requires a dedicated heavy gage conductor direct from the battery for a power source. I'm certain this is how your RV was wired - and so was ours - but it's good to double check. Somewhere along the way, somebody modified ours to the point of removing the dedicated power wire, and soldering jumpers inside the Allison VIM to an ignition switched power source. I downloaded a manual with electrical schematics and was able to sort this all out. I think I have a thread floating around about it... We also had our ECU rebuilt by Transmission Instruments - it would not retain shift memory, so every time you cycled the power to the ECU, we lost all of our learned shift points. It turned out that the unit needed a new power supply. For cleaning connections, I used a product called DeOxit. I work with a lot of electrical engineers and machine electricians, and this stuff is highly recommended. After a rebuilt ECU, clean connections, and a dedicated power supply, the Allison has been performing flawlessly for a few years now.

For caulking and resealing - the best stuff I have ever used is Loctite S40 polyurethane. Use this once, never caulk again... seriously. I always took the time to mask of the caulk area with tape. It's worth the extra time. Few things are more nasty looking on an RV than a lousy caulk job.

The shine on your rig after buffing is impressive. Big job in front of you! If you decide to get ambitious, you can paint over the graphics. We did that for a year or so on the drivers side to cover up the terrible pink and blue stripes until we could replace the exterior siding on that side. It's easy to mask around the existing lines... I think we did it in an afternoon. That said, your stripes actually look pretty good!

I often think back on the decision to buy the lower end, lighter duty 5.9 chassis. I'd love to have an air ride - air brake system with 22.5's, not to mention the fabulous 8.3 Cummins - so I have a little RV envy I guess, but no going back now. This RV is likely the first and perhaps last that we will own. She's got a few good years left in her I think.

-cheers
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Old 05-08-2021, 12:53 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbluesky View Post
Another project on the list this summer is to buff out all the oxidized gel coat and wax this thing! Huge project I know but I started to figure out what is going to work best. I already had a bunch of random buffing compounds, waxes, etc. but I wanted to find the best way to do this so i did some testing. I tried several brands and types of compounds and waxes. You can see the small round test area I did to start, it is absolutely amazing how much shine can come out with a little compound and wax!

The old vinyl stripes are terrible. They streak and leave a mess and don't really get "shiny" but do clean up quite a bit and I am not going to remove them all and repaint anytime soon. The key I found it to do those areas first as they tend to leave some dark staining on the gel coat around them. You have to use a buffing pad just for dark areas, and just for gel coat areas is what I found works best or you would just smear dark crap all over the cream colored gel coat. For waxing the same thing, dark wax pad on dark, light wax pad on light areas.

The magic solution I found works best is as follows:

1. Buff old stripes with Mequiar's Ultimate Compound, wipe clean

2. Buff gel coat areas with compound, wipe clean

3. Use Meguiar's Hi Tech yellow wax #26 on all surfaces, buff out with clean towel

The results are pretty dang good. I will be happy with that.

For the wheels I found the White Diamond compound to work the best. The results again are pretty stunning. This whole thing is going to take me weeks at best, all summer at worst. I will just do what I can in my spare time. I have other projects that I need to work on and a few things to prep for the memorial weekend trip so this really isn't a high priority even though I want to just spend all weekend doing it and be done!
Interesting...I've been doing the exact same thing up here. I'm doing the entire section under the patio awning and it's just about done.

I also tried everything and have something like +20 bottles of different polishes that I tried....

What conclusion did I come down to? Meguiars #4 Heavy Cut Cleaner and Meguiars Ultimate Compound.

The stripes can be brought back. I have used upwards of 20 pads on sections with every single pad coming off black. Laundry is the real issue. Getting the pads clean again and I have about 30 of them.....

The patio awning section I am doing is almost done! This is a huge section with lots of decals and gelcoat.

My magic recipe is two battery operated polishers, Meguiars #4 Heavy Cut Cleaner (decals) and Meguiars Ultimate Compound (white gelcoat and decals) and use an IPA spray to remove the compounds between passes. The IPA spray is distilled water with 25% Isopropyl alcohol. Then wiping it clean with a microfiber cloth and then doing another pass.

I estimate this is a two month job at best. Likely the entire summer.

I also use a porter cable corded polisher on the painted sections with a special compound for paint correction That is the easy part. My kingdom for full body paint.

In short order my wax will arrive. I had to order it in from far away as it is not readily available here. Turtle Wax to the Max Wax. You might want to look it up......it's sold out everywhere and on Amazon people are emptying out half the bottle and then selling them off as new. It's literally being counterfeited! You know what that means. I have TWO bottles of it coming and they are the real deal.

I will make a new thread on it, but...just so you know...and you will not believe it when you do it...but you can actually get the decals to the point where the pad comes off clean. You will think it is not possible. You will think you are removing the decal. You aren't. Think 30 pads later until you get there and you are in the right ball park.

At that point, all the metallic flakes in the decals shine. The decal surface is like smooth plastic. Water marks are gone. The colors totally change depending on how the sun hits it. Now think about the size of the surface under the patio awning. That's the section I just about have done

Also, the front and rear caps? You can get those as new. They tend to fade out the most. You can get them like new. In fact, barring decal damage, you can get the entire thing like new. But.....after all of those hours of work....just what wax are you going to use on it to protect the work? THAT is the question.

My neighbor was/is an auto detailer. He asked me what I would charge someone to do this job. I thought about it, and $10,000 USD would not be enough. I stopped thinking about it at that point. When you do yours, you do want to put up masking tape stripes to keep you in the lines. This is actually done to save your mind. You will go insane if you look at the big picture. Think tearing off your clothes and running around the park late at night babbling insane. You MUST do a section at a time and you MUST see the results or your mind will snap. My section is way too big and I have been on it for more than a month. This causes neighbors to drop by and wonder if you have snapped your mind. They too need to see progress or they will commit you or report you as an insane person to the management that needs to be looked in on. That cause more people to stop by. Soon, you will spend as much time explaining to people as you used to spend on polishing.....that also can cause insanity as you realize you will never be done unless you fence the entire unit in barbed wire.

Anyway, I'll make a new thread on it because, as you said, it is the process that is key and if we can save anyone from determining the process (again) it would be a huge time saver. But the psychology behind how you approach it is key. You have to protect your mind and your sanity. It is essential. This is a job that can otherwise easily leave you curled up in the fetal position crying like a baby. Even worse, everyone you run into will ask you, time and again, how your polishing is going.....

Its like quitting smoking. Just when you stopped thinking about it and finally have some peace you'll run into someone up town and they will ask you, "How's that quitting smoking going?" "Do you find you're craving one?" - at which point you can thank them for reminding you about it.....
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Old 05-08-2021, 02:07 PM   #158
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Bob I love your humor as well as the info you are sharing.
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Old 05-10-2021, 10:23 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piker View Post
"iRV celebrity..." That's pretty funny right there.

Just a couple notes - on the tranny issue, I cannot stress enough the importance of clean connections and also grounds as guardrail noted.

I found and read your entire Allison thread. Wow there is some really great info in there. I can't believe you figured it out with one thing after another causing you issues! That was impressive. After reading I have added several things to my list of to-dos. The list is long, but in the meantime she is usable as is. I have several of the symptoms you described with yours over the years. I'm not sure if having the ECU rebuilt is needed at this point but I am sure it wouldn't hurt.

For cleaning connections, I used a product called DeOxit. I work with a lot of electrical engineers and machine electricians, and this stuff is highly recommended.

Thanks for the tip, I will check it out.

For caulking and resealing - the best stuff I have ever used is Loctite S40 polyurethane.

I am a residential contractor so I have used a lot of different types of caulk over the years. The only issue I have with poly is the lack of UV resistance. Silicone will never touch my exterior anywhere. I have found I prefer the ease of removal later than impossible. That is why I have been sticking to the Dicor for most areas. If I were to recaulk all the windows (which I probably should do, some have silicone on them though ) I'm not 100% sure what I would use. Polyurethane caulks seal REALLY well but please don't ever have to remove it!

The shine on your rig after buffing is impressive. Big job in front of you! If you decide to get ambitious, you can paint over the graphics. We did that for a year or so on the drivers side to cover up the terrible pink and blue stripes until we could replace the exterior siding on that side. It's easy to mask around the existing lines... I think we did it in an afternoon. That said, your stripes actually look pretty good!

I like Bob's suggestion, I think I will just shine them up for now. Painting the rig is really far down the wish list. You did a fantastic job on yours.

I often think back on the decision to buy the lower end, lighter duty 5.9 chassis. I'd love to have an air ride - air brake system with 22.5's, not to mention the fabulous 8.3 Cummins - so I have a little RV envy I guess, but no going back now. This RV is likely the first and perhaps last that we will own. She's got a few good years left in her I think.

I have to be honest, I had no idea what I bought when I did. All I knew was it was a running driving diesel pusher with water damage and needed love. I have learned SOOO much since then mostly from this site. I feel pretty lucky I bought what I did and have the driveline I do. It really seems like it is worth all the money and energy that I am putting into it. Had I bought a 5.9 I would still have put all the love into it. Both are great rigs and bring adventure to our families

-cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobJones View Post
Interesting...I've been doing the exact same thing up here. I'm doing the entire section under the patio awning and it's just about done.

I also tried everything and have something like +20 bottles of different polishes that I tried....

What conclusion did I come down to? Meguiars #4 Heavy Cut Cleaner and Meguiars Ultimate Compound.

Well isn't that interesting, all the stuff we both tried and we came up with the same compound for the gelcoat! I have not seen the #4 cut stuff, I will look for that for the stripes. I have some 3m heavy compund I did not try on the stripes yet. I am not sure I am willing to go 30 passes on the stripes to get them perfect. I am going for more of a 3-5 passes and she looks 95 % better and beads water

IPA spray to remove the compounds between passes. The IPA spray is distilled water with 25% Isopropyl alcohol. Then wiping it clean with a microfiber cloth and then doing another pass.

You make beer with water and alchohol? Sorry but that is what I think of when you say IPA, I will try some for cleaning between passes. The dark color comes right off and makes a mess on the white gelcoat...

I estimate this is a two month job at best. Likely the entire summer.

Jeez I hope not! but you are probably right. This is a huge project...

I also use a porter cable corded polisher on the painted sections with a special compound for paint correction That is the easy part. My kingdom for full body paint.

Yeah my paint is in pretty good shape. That will polish up nice.

In short order my wax will arrive. I had to order it in from far away as it is not readily available here. Turtle Wax to the Max Wax. You might want to look it up......it's sold out everywhere and on Amazon people are emptying out half the bottle and then selling them off as new. It's literally being counterfeited! You know what that means. I have TWO bottles of it coming and they are the real deal.

I will make a new thread on it, but...just so you know...and you will not believe it when you do it...but you can actually get the decals to the point where the pad comes off clean. You will think it is not possible. You will think you are removing the decal. You aren't. Think 30 pads later until you get there and you are in the right ball park.

At that point, all the metallic flakes in the decals shine. The decal surface is like smooth plastic. Water marks are gone. The colors totally change depending on how the sun hits it. Now think about the size of the surface under the patio awning. That's the section I just about have done

Also, the front and rear caps? You can get those as new. They tend to fade out the most. You can get them like new. In fact, barring decal damage, you can get the entire thing like new. But.....after all of those hours of work....just what wax are you going to use on it to protect the work? THAT is the question.

Well I guess I didnt think too hard about wax. I tried a few I had around and the Meguires yellow seems pretty good. I am not sure I want to go fancy hybrid. Just seems like a bit more work than I want to put into it. Like I said 95% better would be great! It is so chalky and dry now anything is a massive improvement!

My neighbor was/is an auto detailer. He asked me what I would charge someone to do this job. I thought about it, and $10,000 USD would not be enough. I stopped thinking about it at that point. When you do yours, you do want to put up masking tape stripes to keep you in the lines. This is actually done to save your mind. You will go insane if you look at the big picture. Think tearing off your clothes and running around the park late at night babbling insane. You MUST do a section at a time and you MUST see the results or your mind will snap. My section is way too big and I have been on it for more than a month. This causes neighbors to drop by and wonder if you have snapped your mind. They too need to see progress or they will commit you or report you as an insane person to the management that needs to be looked in on. That cause more people to stop by. Soon, you will spend as much time explaining to people as you used to spend on polishing.....that also can cause insanity as you realize you will never be done unless you fence the entire unit in barbed wire.

Anyway, I'll make a new thread on it because, as you said, it is the process that is key and if we can save anyone from determining the process (again) it would be a huge time saver. But the psychology behind how you approach it is key. You have to protect your mind and your sanity. It is essential. This is a job that can otherwise easily leave you curled up in the fetal position crying like a baby. Even worse, everyone you run into will ask you, time and again, how your polishing is going.....

You are too funny!! This is great, I read it a couple of times! I like the idea of actually creating lines with tape. I will do that from now on. I have been doing the wheels first. Shiny aluminum and rubber make me happy and take less time.

Its like quitting smoking. Just when you stopped thinking about it and finally have some peace you'll run into someone up town and they will ask you, "How's that quitting smoking going?" "Do you find you're craving one?" - at which point you can thank them for reminding you about it.....
Thanks for the feedback and support folks!
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Old 05-10-2021, 11:11 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbluesky View Post
What conclusion did I come down to? Meguiars #4 Heavy Cut Cleaner and Meguiars Ultimate Compound.

Well isn't that interesting, all the stuff we both tried and we came up with the same compound for the gelcoat! I have not seen the #4 cut stuff, I will look for that for the stripes. I have some 3m heavy compund I did not try on the stripes yet. I am not sure I am willing to go 30 passes on the stripes to get them perfect. I am going for more of a 3-5 passes and she looks 95 % better and beads water

IPA spray to remove the compounds between passes. The IPA spray is distilled water with 25% Isopropyl alcohol. Then wiping it clean with a microfiber cloth and then doing another pass.

You make beer with water and alchohol? Sorry but that is what I think of when you say IPA, I will try some for cleaning between passes. The dark color comes right off and makes a mess on the white gelcoat...
Yup, I'm using Meguiars #4 cut polish on the stripes and Meguiars Ultimate Compound on the white gelcoat sections. I also have 3M Vinyl polish but it's more for finish/shining and not worth the price.

I have found the IPA spray to be very important. Two reasons, if you use it after a pass it helps keep the pads clean. If you use it when you are finished, before waxing, it removes all the compounds you used .

The dark dirt embedded in the stripes embeds into the gelcoat (white sections). So what I did was stripes first and then Meguiars Ultimate Compound on the white. It removes the smudges from the decals.

I am impressed that you came up with the same stuff. I used a LOT of different products before coming up with that combo. Almost ready to wax the main section. Pics to follow....
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Old 05-15-2021, 09:54 PM   #161
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I am going on a short trip over memorial weekend and have switched gears into getting some nagging small projects done for the next camp session. I also need to start getting tools packed etc. This will be my first time hooking up the trailer and hauling my Suzuki Samurai to an off road event with this RV. The picture is of my old setup, I'll post a picture of the new setup soon.

First thing was the fridge. It has been working great on electric but the propane has been hit and miss. It kept shutting down and showing the check light. I was pretty sure a good cleaning of the burner, thermocoupler, and ignitor were do. I pulled it apart and knocked out about a tablespoon of fine rust dust from the burner! I cleaned everything up with some emery cloth and put it back together and it seems to be running great now!

The other small project was fixing the fold down stovetop cover thing. The rivets has let go on one side so it could not be folded up and used. I drilled new oversized holes and put in some 3/16" rivets. All better now

Someone had previously mentioned to check the rubber line that goes from the back of the fuel pump to the turbo wastegate and make sure it was in good order. Mine looked good so that is checked off the list.
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Old 05-17-2021, 04:09 PM   #162
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Am I crazy...

So I just made a verbal deal to buy another coach. I couldn't pass it up. It's a Foretravel U295 with some front end damage....

Here is the post I created if you would like to follow along:
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Old 05-23-2021, 11:30 PM   #163
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I did buy the Foretravel. I will be starting on that project after I take one last farewell trip in the Nav. Here we are all loaded up. I'll post some pics and share a little final story before she gets a for sale sign after Memorial Weekend.
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Old 05-24-2021, 10:50 AM   #164
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What a great trip and story. Been to a number of the same places, but no that quickly. Wonderful job. THanks fo all.
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Old 05-25-2021, 12:21 AM   #165
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My Samurai follows my 1988 Winnie, Ninja goes 4 down easy, yours looks almost new from the picture.
Have fun on this last trip with the HR...
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Old 05-25-2021, 06:59 AM   #166
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Quote:
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My Samurai follows my 1988 Winnie, Ninja goes 4 down easy, yours looks almost new from the picture.
Have fun on this last trip with the HR...
Ohh that's awesome!!! I don't like 4 down with my zuk. I have had 2 rear ends nuke from that. Pictures hide a lot It's a 92 EFI model runs like a top but she has bad MN road cancer. I gave it a $20 paint job awhile ago. It works for me, I go beat on it in the woods )
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Old 06-01-2021, 10:11 PM   #167
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We had a fantastic final voyage in the Nav. She ran perfect, all systems worked as they should. Couldn't have asked for a better farewell trip that Memorial Weekend.

Well the ad is up. It's officially for sale.

https://www.irv2.com/rvclassifieds/s...avigator&cat=4
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