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Old 11-28-2020, 03:21 PM   #1
gwq
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Refinish Woodwork

has anybody refinished the woodwork in a class a,did you replace or is there a product to brush on to make it darker?
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Old 11-28-2020, 04:14 PM   #2
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I don't know of a product that you can put directly over the top of the current stain unless you go with a paint type product. The wood will have a poly urethane on top that will have to come off first before applying another stain. It will be a lot of work and a lot of time.

If you decide to give it a go, look at Festool tools for a sander and dust collector. Expensive but they work and you won't have dust all over the coach that you will be cleaning for the next year.
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Old 11-28-2020, 05:07 PM   #3
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You don’t mention what kind of a motorhome, and it’s important to your question.

For motorhomes, “wood” is a highly questionable term. In most entry to mid-level coaches darn near everything is “paper-wrapped” wood product. Meaning, it is very low quality lumber, either solid or ply, that has been shaped and then covered with adhesive-backed paper printed with a pretty convincing wood grain pattern. Refinishing is not an option, but you might be able to paint it, emphasis on the “might”.

As you move up the quality/cost ladder cabinet door and drawer fronts will start to be solid hardwood with traditional finishes, but face frames and panels will still be matching paper wrapped. So, in these coaches you could refinish some parts, but probably not others. You’ll find this configuration even in top-end gassers and some diesel pushers.

And finally, in top-end coaches (one gasser brand that I know of) you’ll get real wood throughout. Refinishing with traditional products shouldn’t be an issue. A lot of work though. There are spray toners that work well for this kind of thing, but you probably won’t find them at Home Depot. Go to a woodworking store (Woodcraft, Rockler, etc), or you might find them in a good paint store.

The paper wrapped stuff is a pain. I had it in my last coach. It can’t be repaired easily, and it’s slick. I can’t imagine that opaque stains or paint will stick, but the only way to know would be to try. In our new Tiffin everything is real wood, and fortunately, we quite like it.

Let us know what you’re driving and we can give you a better idea what your options might be.

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Old 11-28-2020, 05:42 PM   #4
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unit is a 98 dutch star by newmar,
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Old 11-28-2020, 06:57 PM   #5
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In a Newmar, you should have solid wood doors-n-drawers. I can’t say for sure about the face frames and panels though. I’ve heard Newmar uses paper-wrapped for these items, but I can’t speak to the truth of that. Hopefully, someone who owns one will chime in.

Spray toners might adhere to quality paper-wrapped material, if it were squeaky clean. Maybe. You can do amazing things with it on “real” wood.

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Old 11-28-2020, 07:22 PM   #6
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If you need just a bit of touchup, you might try "Old English Scratch Cover for Dark Woods". My '93 Newmar has cherry, in quite nice shape for its age but had some area that looked sort of sun-faded or something. That stuff and a few minor scratches were well sorted out by this polish. After I used it then regular furniture polish/dusting stuff is I all need to keep it that way.

It doesn't darken the stain much but it does just a bit. At any rate you can get it a WalMart and elsewhere for only about four bucks a bottle if you want to give it a try. I used it all over all the woodwork so it look more consistent and doubled up on the faded areas.
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Old 11-28-2020, 08:44 PM   #7
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I refinished the dinette table, it was worn and scratched. It took a lot of time and work to get the old finish off, stripper barely touched it and any reasonable grade sandpaper loaded up in seconds, but it wasn't soft or tacky. It did make a lot of difference, the finish seemed to have lightened up over the years. The cabinets above the table are the same color as the table with the old varnish. All in all it would be a huge job to refinish the dozens of drawers and drawers, then all the face framing and other wood.
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Old 11-30-2020, 11:34 AM   #8
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As another poster said you will have to remove the varnish protecting the wood. It shouldn't be difficult. Use 150 grit sandpaper then 220 grit. Hand sanding will work. You don't need to sand to bare wood since you are going darker. Clean the area well, then use gel stain in whatever color you like. The new stain will go right over the old. You apply the gel stain with a clean rag. Then use wipe on polyurethane (2 -3 coats) as the top coat. Wipe on means you don't use a brush. I like to use cheese cloth.
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