Replacing a brake line

[Laserdon]

I had a brake line rust and began to leak and was wondering the best way to replace it. I have a 1989 Winnebago Superchief, 27'.
It was 8" under the connection into the master cylinder. I see 25' copper brake lines for the P30 chassis for sale, has anyone done this or what would be the best way to replace without going to the shop and paying out an arm and a leg.

[marjoa]

1) In this case it would probably be better to take a good picture or two and post them so we can better understand the location, see the condition and suggest possible options.
2) Give us a brief description of your mechanical abilities because some will probably ask this.
3) One last thing, since your RV is 28 years old, when has your entire brake system been completely flushed, serviced and new fluids replaced?

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[c_oneil]

Replacing brake lines is a pretty easy job for a brake shop but you won't be able to buy a replacement part off the shelf. They will have to be custom fabricated and a brake shop will have the tubing, tools and experience to do this routinely. After replacing the bad lines flushing and bleeding the system is required. At the age of this RV you should take a pretty good look at all the brake lines (steel and rubber) for signs of pending failure and not just replace the leaking one.

[MSHappyCampers]

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

I'm with Carter on that one! Keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

[Soppy]

Brake lines aren't that hard to replace if you have the proper flaring tools. You can use copper nickel brake line . Don't use soft copper tubing. If your not familiar with flaring , let a professional do it. If you are going to get it done , replace all the hoses and lines and have the system flushed. You might be able to save a little money by running the longer lines yourself and then getting a professional to flare and connect them , but check with them first.

[Mr_D]

I thought brake lines had to be steel as other metals were too soft and expanded under pressure?

[dix39]

It's been a long time since I've replaced a brake line, before the 70s when we moved from WV to OR. Unlike WV, OR doesn't use salt on their roads during winter.

As well as I remember brake lines use a double flare unlike the common single flare used in soft copper tubing. That may require the purchase of a new flaring tool. I think that is what Soppy meant about flaring. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

As well as I remember the tool wasn't that expensive (in the '60s or '70s) and flaring wasn't that difficult. I don't know about now, but brake lines complete with flares used to be available at parts stores in different lengths, which could be another option.

Best of luck.

Steve

[Soppy]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

I thought brake lines had to be steel as other metals were too soft and expanded under pressure?

That's what I thought. Apparently the new copper nickel line is approved for brake lines. Quite a bit more expensive than steel but not supposed to rust.

[Roy1]

Copper nickel is a good way to go be sure to use a good double flare tool. This type tubing is also good for fuel lines and comes in various lengths besides the 25 foot rolls it is also easier to bend then steel only.

[wackymac]

Auto parts stores used to have pre-made straight brake lines in various lengths and diameters.

[toof]

Replace all if one failed the rest will follow what's a life worth?

[cruzbill]

Replace with steel brake tubing from the auto parts store. Buy straight tubing sections, they come with the double-flares already done and fittings installed. Don't buy a double-flair tool, buy a tubing bender and learn how to use it. I never could get the hang of making a double flare, they always leaked. Buy the straight tubing and bend it yourself. Much easier.

[nehog]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

I thought brake lines had to be steel as other metals were too soft and expanded under pressure?

Any approved brake line material is fine.

Copper tubing is never acceptable as it will work harden under the pressure requirements and fail.

Just get your brake line materials from a good automotive parts store and you're set.

[Dutch Star Don]

Don.....If it were a 3-4 year old coach with an issue, I would take it in and have the one brake line replaced. With the age of your coach and the fact that one line is already bad, you really need to do a complete change out of the metal and rubber lines. Having a shop do all of that would be an expensive repair on an older coach. If you feel capable, I would try and do it yourself. Repair one line at a time in case you get to a point you can't do a particular section. This way you can get the coach back on the road if necessary to drive it to a shop.

Lastly, use some type of power bleeder to bleed the system if you do your own work.