Replacing a Schumacher OEM Converter for a Progressive Dynamics 4 stage converter

[marjoa]

Originally Posted by twinboat

If you wire the solar negetive, to the right side of the shunt, you will calculate that charging input too.

That way the monitor records the charging going into the battery and will give you an accurate state of charge.

If you go direct to the battery, the AH count will never be right. Everything should go thru the shunt.

TB,

Got my solar panel today and I want to verify—one more time—that I'm wiring this up right.

So, I've attached another photo of my battery bay just to make it easier for you view without having to dig back to prior posts.

I've also attached a PDF of the instructions from Zamp on how to wire this up to a 2 battery setup.

So above you told me to wire up the solar neg wire to the right side of the shunt. I've labeled this as #1 in my attached photo. So I just want to make sure that I'm supposed to wire up the solar neg wire to that large right hand bolt on the shunt. The solar positive wire will go to the pos terminal on the battery.

[twinboat]

It goes to # 1. That way the shunt will read the amps going into the battery.

The Zamp guide is showing how to wire up to 2 paralleled, 12 volt batteries.

You have 2 series batteries so it does not apply.

If you had 4, 6 volt batteries, in a series parallel arangement, then it becomes relevant.

[marjoa]

Ok got it.

This latest version of the 200 watt Zamp Solar Panel has a 15amp 5 stage controller and provides an extra port for an optional external battery temp Sensor. I'd have to purchase this optional temp sensor.

Do you think it's necessary to install this temp sensor?

[twinboat]

If your only RVing in temprate weather and not in extreme heat or cold, you can do without the temp sensor.

In extreme heat the sensor will cut back the voltage output and in extreme cold it will raise it.

[marjoa]

Thanks again TB so much for your advice.