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Old 05-28-2022, 10:11 AM   #1
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Location: East Wenatchee, WA
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Replacing flooring

Hey all,

Iím looking to replace the flooring in my 2006 Monaco Knight. Has anybody done this in this particular or similar coach.

1. What product did you use? Good, bad or just okay? Home Depot has a Life Proof product that has the color we like, but looking for options based on experience. We travel 6 months a year and Our 2 pups travel with us, so looking for good scratch resistance and durability.
2. Was it fully floating? Glued down? Spot glued? What did you use for adhesive?
3. I need tips for getting the old carpet out and new flooring under the slides and adjusting the slide rollers to allow for the extra height of the flooring. 3/8 inch.
4. Entry and kitchen are vinyl. Living area is carpet and would need to be raised a 1/4 inch to match the vinyl area. Vinyl is sound with no damage, so I wanted to leave it alone and just lay new flooring over it. How did you address this?
5. Any other issues that I might encounter and how you addressed them would be great to know. Iíve done laminate and tile flooring at home and being a woodworker, Iíve got tools, but a moving and vibrating coach is a bit different than a stationary home, so looking for tips from those in the know.

Jerry & Kathy Paine, A Pair of Wondering Wenatchee Wanderers with our Border Collie, Max and our Mini Aussie, Annie
2006 Monaco Knight 38PDQ & 2011 Dodge Ram Laramie 1500
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Old 05-28-2022, 10:19 AM   #2
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Try doing a search on this site, you will find this subject discussed many times.
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Old 05-28-2022, 07:00 PM   #3
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I'de say floating LVP is the most used, but glued to stair area. There's going to be a zillion staples in carpet. You can find dozens of threads.
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Old 05-28-2022, 07:53 PM   #4
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Agree with LVP. You need to recognize that on top of all the movement, you also have wide temperature swings. LVP is the most stable over a wide range.
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Old 05-29-2022, 09:20 AM   #5
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I first did my coach in 2009, it had carpeting in the LR and bedroom but ceramic tile in the kitchen and bathroom. I tore out the carpeting and put down a laminate snap lock type flooring but I glued the edges. This flooring held up well and looked good.
But last year I noticed that the subfloor underneath was flexing and knew I had a problem. So I bit the bullet and tore out the laminate and found a water damage behind the passenger seat, only thing I could figure was that years of having dog crates stacked there and them spilling water finally caught up.
So I fixed the flooring and decided to go back with a LVP flooring which I bought from Lowes, it is a PERGO product that was the best Lowes had as far as wear and water resistance. It's a floating floor and snap locks together.

I decided to also tear the carpeting off the slides and the step in front of the closet and use the product there. I now only have a small amount of in the closets. I have enough left over to redo if I decide to do that later. I also put the LVP on the sides of the bed box that rolls in and out. When I pulled the bed box I found that the rollers had chewed up the bottom and had to fix with metal runners. This is a common problem and something to look at.

Here's a post I did on my install.
I think it turned out really well and I know the flooring will hold up.
Jim J
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Old 05-29-2022, 11:15 AM   #6
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We used Earthwerks LVP in our 08 HR. It is glued down. Has worked out very well for us.
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Old 05-29-2022, 01:37 PM   #7
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Some flooring is designed to be glued down, others edge glued, and then there's full floating. I used full floating. My reasoning was; my rig would experience very wide temperature swings when stored in unheated storage. Could be in the teens in the winter, and 90s in the summer. I wanted the vinyl flooring to be able to move - plus the brand I chose was a floating flooring.

Glue down usually requires a certain type of glue.

Again, I defaulted to floating floor because most flooring and glues you'll find in a home supply stores are designed for conditioned spaces - a home that's kept at a narrow range of temperatures. I know vinyl has a quite large coefficient of expansion (my older glued together vinyl gutter creak when they expand and contract) so I wanted to give the floor the ability to move if needed.

When you chose your flooring, make sure to condition - heat to proper install temps - the RV interior for 24 hours prior to installation. This includes storing the flooring boxes in the RV so they match the temperature of the interior. It should be in the instructions.

If you are pulling carpet, be ready. As mentioned above, you'll find more staples than you ever thought were possible. It's like the installer was paid by the staple. I used a flat bladed screwdriver, needle nose pliers, and small vice grips for the real stubborn ones. Oh, and you'll surely want kneepads.
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Old 05-29-2022, 06:34 PM   #8
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If you glue down, use outdoor carpet adhesive. It is flexible. Temperatures range below zero to above 100 without problems. I used it to lay a flexible product made of marble dust and resin, VillaStone.
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Old 05-29-2022, 08:13 PM   #9
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We have had the floor now for eight months, installed last Sept in Va, been to Florida and back and the floor is just fine, no planks popped up or shifted, looks just great. The company that installed it has done many RVS in this area and always glue the floor down. It is a white no odor glue they use, which goes down first then the planks after the glue has set.
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