I used batt insulation to seal the top and bottom has the vents taped shut.
With that my compressor area has not dropped below 45 with 25-30 degree temps outside. When the compressor cycles on coils on exterior heat up the compartment slightly. This was with inside at around 60.
Specs say 50-110 so I have been slightly below for short periods but heats back up when cycling.
Also inside of refrigerator compartment is not sealed. Vents top and bottom with small gaps on side to allow some circulation of air around refrigerator.
This was last night. Not quite as cold but the effect and differential is shown. Attachment 277325
You don't happen to have incandescent lighting staying on, I have had that happen with a bad door switch years ago before the led lighting
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My 20+ year old "beer fridge" in the unheated garage in WI starts to have problems controlling freezer temperature when the garage gets around 40F. The fridge will maintain 33 to 40F until the garage temperature get below 25 to 30 and then you better bring inside anything that just has water in it as it will get slushy or worse. Anything with a little alcohol in it seems to not freeze unless it gets below 0F in the garage. This weekend after it finally started warmed up above freezing, the fridge started holding 34 to 39 again even though the freezer was up to 42F! During the summer, the freezer and fridge control to about +/- 1F around setpoint.
I would follow the earlier advice given to block the vents that were needed by the replaced absorption fridge. Your installer either didn't know that unblocked vents can cause problems or he thought you are a fair weather camper that stays home when it's cold.
I have a beer fridge in the shop at the lake house and it seems to work fine in almost all weather. Only issues have been below zero weather
many stick/brick refer/freezer these machines cycle the cooling on fres food section so do not run much in cool setting and what happens is when thay go in to auto defrost thay do not run enuph cool the freezer