Residential vs propane/elec fridge

[BCam]

I've had Norcold LPG/120V AC refrigerators in three RVs, two TTs and a MH. I've never had a problem with underperformance, even in our northern CA summers. The fire issues were limited to a list of specific serial numbers for particular models.

We like to dry camp and don't particularly like to run our generator so a residential refrigerator isn't for me.

[JFXG]

Merry Christmas!
If you are to be serious boondockers- that is to say you’re likely to plan some trips where you’ll spend several days or longer off grid- then I’d go ahead with the gas/elec model. We have one now- a Dometic 1292 double door- but we never plan off-grid stays. Our only boondocking is perhaps a few parking lot overnights here and there while enroute from one volunteer gig to another. We usually travel with the generator running, but we’ve noted that while traveling with the unit off it barely gains a few degrees in 6 hours of travel, as long as we don’t open the door. I’m sure a new residential would be even more well sealed. I’m planning to replace it with a residential, but the 19 year old thing just keeps on humming!

[Rwjsim2003]

We have had both options in different rigs. I would never go back to propane fridge. The residential works so much better and with correct battery setup we have no issue boondocking.

[BCam]

Based on the posts I've read, many of those who comment (in other threads on this topic) that they get along just fine off the grid with a residential refrigerator also mention running their generator for several hours a day.

That's not something that I want to do, nor do I want to camp next to anyone that's doing so. One of the reasons we seek out dry camping spots in State Parks, etc. is for some peace and quiet.

[chuckftboy]

When I had an absorbtion frige I found that it didn't cool well when temperatures were 95 and above. Living in Florida it was a problem to get the frige under 42 degrees when it was hot so for me the residential works a lot better.

I can turn the frige on and load it with food at the same time instead of turning it on a day ahead. All had icemakers but ice production is much faster with the residential and I use a lot of ice.

[Mudfrog]

Originally Posted by RescueRamsey

I dry camp, or boondock 99% of the time, I just swapped to a residential fridge. No problem, would never go back. I have 4 standard 6 volt golf cart batteries, my generator runs 2 times a day for 2 hrs. If it's cold and we're inside using lights and TV and such, if it's a little warmer it only runs 1 time. I plan to had some solar to offset the ah being used, but it's not urgent

Me, I don't wanna have to run the genset 2 hours a day to keep up. I don't want to have to add more batteries and/or solar just to run a refrigerator. It's nice being able to boondock through a weekend on two batteries with our 18+ year old Norcold absorption refrigerator.

[BigEvi]

Boondockers need to run their generators even if they do have a propane fridge. It's just running a little less than if there is a residential fridge. Batteries go dead from TVs, lights, iPad/iphone/laptop chargers, inverters running microwaves and coffee makers etc.


If you can't go for more than a day boondocking with a residential fridge the DC system needs upgrading. I have 1 300ah lithium battery. It is better than having 4 6v. I go 2-3 days beteven charges and then when I do charge it I use a small very quiet 1000watt portable generator. Barely hear it. And it takes a half gallon of gas to charge it.



An upgraded DC electrical system is good for all sorts of things. I would much rather have an upgraded DC system and a residential fridge than a lower end DC system and a crappy fridge tha doesn't keep food cold even when it's working properly.



-E

[moisheh]

Some of the negative comments are from owners with units that are 20 years old. Today's Class A units are full of electronics. Lots of phantom draws. Even with an rv fridge you will have to run the genny. Although solar could help. Most larger units do not have gas ovens. You need to run the genny to power the oven, microwave coffee pot,toaster and more. Our old 78Vogue could spend a whole weekend just running on the 2 4d batteries. None of today's units can do that.

[Finally_Able]

Originally Posted by BigEvi

Boondockers need to run their generators even if they do have a propane fridge. It's just running a little less than if there is a residential fridge. Batteries go dead from TVs, lights, iPad/iphone/laptop chargers, inverters running microwaves and coffee makers etc.


If you can't go for more than a day boondocking with a residential fridge the DC system needs upgrading. I have 1 300ah lithium battery. It is better than having 4 6v. I go 2-3 days beteven charges and then when I do charge it I use a small very quiet 1000watt portable generator. Barely hear it. And it takes a half gallon of gas to charge it.



An upgraded DC electrical system is good for all sorts of things. I would much rather have an upgraded DC system and a residential fridge than a lower end DC system and a crappy fridge tha doesn't keep food cold even when it's working properly.



-E

I think this sums up what I have gathered after reading through these posts. Spend the money on expanding DC system rather than on the +/- $1800 upcharge we would have spent on the P/E fridge. Thank you!

[Finally_Able]

Thanks to all who have responded to this thread -- I'm now of the opinion that it makes sense to go with a residential fridge and expand DC capabilities, but I'll be following for any additional replies. Happy New Year!

[hamm2018]

We have a large 5th wheel toy hauler with a residential fridge, we are full time and spend all of our nights in a RV park somewhere. We run the inverter on our fridge while traveling, and have been without issues, so far.
Some good friends have a large 5th wheel toy hauler with the large electric/gas fridge. Their major complaint is the amount of gas to keep the fridge cold while traveling. In fact, they are getting a new rig, this month, and it will have a residential, electric only fridge this time around.
A week's run from Richmond, Va. to Phoenix, Az., it took a 30 lb. bottle to operate the fridge, according to them.

[Gary RVRoamer]

If you have sufficient battery capacity for your off-grid needs, there is no question in my mind that the residential-type fridge is far superior. "Sufficient", of course, is subjective and to a large extent depends on your style of camping.


Some where around 400 AH of lead-acid batteries (or maybe 300 AH of lithium) should be sufficient for most Rvers to use a residential fridge, even those who go off-grid regularly. If you feel you need to avoid running a generator every day, more battery AH will be needed. Or a propane fueled absorption fridge.

[glens]

Downsized campers from a Prevost Motorcoach and just bought a 2004 40 C Revolution. After reading about fire issues with some , and it has had the fix and works okay, I took it last week to an RV place here in Texas to pull a double door Norcold with Icemaker out and put a Residental unit in. Don't want to take the chance. Gentleman already wants the Unit after his catching fire in a Foretravel Coach.

[KFed 90-10]

Like many here, I have had both. Living in AZ and starting out many of our camping trips from the PX area in the 100+ degrees, my absorption fridge would take 12-24 hours to get cool. And if you left the door open to load or just get something out of the fridge, it would take hours to get back down to temp. I now have a residential fridge and it gets cold in about 2 hours even in the extreme heat. I also boondock about half the time and have no problem lasting all night without draining my batteries. Once cool, my residential fridge only draws about 5 amps. I have 300ah of lithium and about 800 watts of solar and rarely need to run my genny. I also would never go back to absorption.