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Old 07-22-2011, 07:48 AM   #1
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Roof A/C problem

My roof A/C will run for a while and cools just fine but will trip the breaker.I will reset the breaker and does the same thing.ometimes it will run two or three hours then trip breaker.Can anyone help.Thanks

Thanks for your input.It is a duotherm. 2003 model.I'm traveling right now but during the day it works fine but at night is when it trips the breaker.It does it on the generator or on shore power.Thanks

First of all thanks for all of every ones help.On the a/c kicking the breaker after doing some more checking it runs all day because it is so hot out side the a/c dose not cycle it just runs but at night it kicks the breaker.At night time after it cools down out side and the a/c will then cycle.After the a/c cuts off, then when it kicks back on as soon as it kicks on it flips the breaker.I can flip the breaker on and the a/c comes on but does the same thing when it kicks it self back on.What is causing it to kick the breaker when the a/c kicks it self back on.It is a doutherm.Is there a starter that kicks the compressor on or is the compressor going bad?Thanks for any input.

I checked the amp draw and it is 15 amps so I changed the start capacitor and the a/c runs but when the a/c cycles (kicks back on ) it trips the breaker still.I have also changed the breaker.What else is there.It is a dou-therm.Thanks for any help.
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:54 AM   #2
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The first thing to check is incoming voltage. This is classic low voltage. You should have at least 105 volts.
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:37 AM   #3
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You didn't say what make/model A/C's you had or how old. As the compressors get old they require a little more umph to start them, they make a hard start kit for most models, your rv shop should be ablel to help you, or check on the web. Also check all of your electrical connections at the A/C, breaker, and the 120V panel main breakers. As o/p said you need at least 105V under a load or bad things will start happening. Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:17 PM   #4
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If the breaker is the one in your RV. They can get weak over time. More so, the more they trip.
Replace that breaker
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:33 PM   #5
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I agree with the low voltage issue, that happens to me when voltage goes down.

Lastest trick my A/C took was a bearing failure on the blower.. in 100+ heat.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:33 PM   #6
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"If the breaker is the one in your RV. They can get weak over time. More so, the more they trip.
Replace that breaker "

The spring will get weak after several tripings and will indeed need to be replaced.
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:24 PM   #7
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How much current (amps) is it drawing now? I haven't been into an RV A/C yet, but window units I know. When they begin to go bad the compressor gets hot and trips a thermal overload usually mounted under the connection cap. (Plastic cover) Eventually the overload contacts burn up or the compressor locks up and trips breakers. Keep in mind there is also a fan motor involved but it's usually the compressor that goes. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:57 PM   #8
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Note for readers three separate posts on this subject were merged.
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Old 08-12-2011, 11:44 AM   #9
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Well I have changed the capacitor, the motor start capacitor, and the breaker.It runs fine until it cycles off and then back on and when it kicks back on it kicks the breaker.What else can it be? Thanks
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Old 08-12-2011, 06:38 PM   #10
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What is your voltage in the RV and also have you taken any amp readings on the compressor? Try starting the fan first then the compressor.

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Old 08-12-2011, 07:46 PM   #11
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How long is it off before it tuns back on. It takes 2 or 3 minuets for the presser to equalizer in it. The thermostatic might be making it cycle to soon. May be you need a new thermostatic some new ones have a delay in them.
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