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Old 10-27-2020, 03:36 PM   #1
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Roof air conditioner is leaking water in!

Considering my knowledge very close to zero into the subject, I know the air condition units take humidity from the air and the water needs to go somewhere. I believe drain in the top of the roof???

I seal the front and both sides but I was not comfortable to seal the back of the unit! ?

Between the radiators where the fan is located we have a plate can be full of water during heavy rain. The rain water needs to go somewhere for that reason I leave the back open, I just hope that is another seal in the middle to block the rain.

The unit has been discussed its Coleman ( maybe ) 2001 Fleetwood flair .

2- the air condition covers accumulate rainwater when is parked,. Question?

Can I place a solid piece of blue styrofoam on the top of the front radiator to making sure I'm lifting the cover to stop the water to accumulated.

I don't know if the block of a styrofoam will block the circulation of the air inside of the cover, besides that the cover it is in good shape.

I appreciate any comments.
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Old 10-27-2020, 03:57 PM   #2
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Roof top A/C Unit should NEVER be caulked/sealed
Roof Top A/C Units have a gasket that goes around roof opening....it is roughly 1" thick and get compressed to about 1/2" when properly installed
That seals the roof opening from rain/washing etc

2001 vintage....time for new roof gaskets

Roof top A/C Units have drip pan under the EVAP Coil
Evap Coil can drip condensate into drip pan and the flow out the drain holes in drip pan....typically down/across roof and drip off a corner

If A/C Pan is caulked/sealed the drip pan can NOT let condensate to flow out
If A/C gasket is overtightened then A/C Pan can block the drip pan drains

Remove return air filter....look inside A/C ---that is where the EVAP Coil is located and feel with your hand the drip pan....should be dry or slightly moist ---- no standing water

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Old 10-27-2020, 05:10 PM   #3
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Great! thank you, I will do!
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Old 10-27-2020, 06:56 PM   #4
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Leaves ,dirt,pine needles,birds nests ect. as well as living biomass can and will block normal drain flow.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:15 PM   #5
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Note the drain pans in the drawing Old-biscuit provided. It has small drain holes (some only one hole) around the edge which can become plugged, in drains into the base pan; when the base pan drain is plugged the condensate overflows into the RV. Clean those drain holes out while cleaning debris out of the pan.


Take note of your roof when it is raining, if water pools around the air conditioner the roof must be shimmed up. That is another discussion.
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Old 10-28-2020, 12:06 PM   #6
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My AC had an occasional drip and I snugged up the 4 mounting bolts located inside.....fixed it.

Do not tighten, just snug them up.
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Old 10-28-2020, 12:18 PM   #7
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roof gasket is roughly 1" thick when new/installed then compressed to roughly 1/2" when the hold down bolts are properly torqued (40 inch pounds --- INCH not foot pounds)
Very few have a torque wrench that is calibrated in Inch Pounds so SNUG works
The hold down bolts loosen over time to vibration, rocking/rolling of RV etc so an occasional SNUG job should be done
Finger tight then SNUG (1/4 turn)

But also over time the roof gasket will need replaced due to over-compression .....A/C Pan can block drip pan drain holes when gasket is compressed too much
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Old 10-28-2020, 03:56 PM   #8
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Fantastic! Thank you!
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Old 10-28-2020, 06:08 PM   #9
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The PO of my RV chaulked the gasket all the way around the AC. Guess it was easier than a new gasket? I cleaned the chaulking off and replaced the foam gasket. Mine had 4 plastic 'spacers' that slipped onto the gasket at each corner. From what I gathered, you tighten the AC bolts down till the gasket is the same thickness as the spacers, so thats what I did...... right or wrong. The spacers are 1/2" thick, which would go along with the 1" to 1/2" compression OB stated.
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US1 View Post
The PO of my RV chaulked the gasket all the way around the AC. Guess it was easier than a new gasket? I cleaned the chaulking off and replaced the foam gasket. Mine had 4 plastic 'spacers' that slipped onto the gasket at each corner. From what I gathered, you tighten the AC bolts down till the gasket is the same thickness as the spacers, so thats what I did...... right or wrong. The spacers are 1/2" thick, which would go along with the 1" to 1/2" compression OB stated.
Plastic spacers came about cause 'tech' were overtightening hold down bolts

Spacers are a good tool
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