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Old 10-27-2017, 12:31 PM   #1
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Roof to sidewall "band" loose...fixes?

Have had my used Monaco Diplomat for 3 months. I've noticed the "trim piece" covering the joint where the roof meets the sidewall is spreading away from the coach over the door and over driver's side window. My buddy just put screws through his for same problem. Is that ok? It looks like that trim consists of a metal "U-channel" screwed to the coach with a plastic (?) cover that snaps over it then is sealed with color matched caulk...?

Should I cut the caulk, remove the plastic cover, re-screw, then replace all? How hard is that? Is the cover likely to crack or break in removal? How does it come off? Section over door stops at awning track so I'd only have to remove about 4 feet. Over driver's window, moulding goes all the way to bottom of coach and wraps under a couple of inches - much more work it appears to me! And multiple colors of caulk required to reseal. Anyone have experience doing this?

Thank you.
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:49 PM   #2
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Can you provide a picture?
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Old 10-27-2017, 03:59 PM   #3
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I'll give it a try...
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Old 10-27-2017, 04:02 PM   #4
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First photo over door. Black is mildew/dirt on caulk/sealant. caulk is intact on top. Third photo is underside view. Caulk has pulled away as moulding has seemingly loosened from side of coach. Driver's side over window is worse - caulk is open on the top side of moulding.
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Old 10-27-2017, 08:42 PM   #5
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Don't use silicone caulk! When you clean it up before repairing it, seal with Geocell Proflex. One way or another, you have to deal with that problem immediately.
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Old 10-28-2017, 06:35 AM   #6
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Things to watch for when repairing roof seams

What you're looking at is not caulk and that area you're pointing to is called the gutter or some call it roof channel.

Keeping these seams well sealed and maintained is a very important issue. It requires inspection & maintenance if necessary every 6 months. DON'T use screws. Because the whole MH twists and flexes and is exposed to hurricane force winds as you drive, you need to use the proper flex sealant in those areas not only to allow this flexing, but also so these areas bond correctly. I highly suggest you go online and download the proper "callout sheet" for what Monaco calls for. Others here that have gone through this may make suggestions on what they have used, just be careful. Many in the past have used the wrong product only to regret it later. These factory callout sheets specify what type of sealants to use where. All these sealants are not colored but are "clear". So no worries about going over one color to another. There are many areas throughout the coach that need sealing (not just the area you happened to notice at this time) and some areas require a different kind of sealant than others. Bay doors, windows, roof line, front & rear cap, roof vents as examples. Your front cap in your picture also needs repair. And as was mentioned, DO NOT use silicone.

Is it easy to do...well....I don't know if I'd say easy because looking at your pics, it's obvious to me this is an item that hasn't been neglected for awhile. All your roof vents probably need tending to also. It's not hard to do, just time consuming to do it right. To get the new proper sealant to bond correctly and do it's job, a lot and probably most of that old sealant will have to be dug out first. But once it's done right, then maintaining it from there is fairly easy.

Here's what I did to my roof when we first bought our MH:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/fina...ne-316925.html

BTW...Here's how I redid my roof & seams about a year ago. I don't know if your roof or requirements are the same as mine
I used NuFlex 640 in my seams which is also a thermoplastic flexible sealant and has the same properties as the Manusbond. It has held up well and I check it every time I go up on the roof.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/fina...ne-316925.html

Winnebago Roof seams.
A cataloged story of a forum member on what NOT to do:
Now here's a post of a fella here recently that thought he'd "beat the system" by addressing this matter in another way. Turned out to be the wrong choice. This is why I'm saying again, just because someone says, "this is what I did, works great, easy peasy...doesn't mean it's the right way or will work in the long term.

Part 1
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/roof...-a-362225.html

Part 2 Removal
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/roof...al-362438.html

Part 3 Repair
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/roof...ir-363138.html

Good luck my friend.
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Old 10-28-2017, 07:14 AM   #7
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BTW...do yourself and us a favor by putting your MH and Toad information into your signature
This will really help in all your future posts, so you won't have to type it in each time.
You do this by:
1) Going to the top of this page and click the top left tab named “User CP”
2) Look at the menu on the left and scroll down to “Settings & Options” and click “Edit Signature”
3) In that text box type all the information about your MH, Year, model, length, mileage, any aftermarket extras installed, your toad and so on.
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Old 10-28-2017, 09:47 AM   #8
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wind damage

This is excatly what happened to our 1992 Winnebago Adventure last Sunday night on our way home. A large gust of wind separated the roof from the side all the way from the front to back on the drivers side. Peeled up all the way to the ac. Insurance said get it fixed. only repair shop close bye does not do fiberglass only rubber roofs.What would you do? Thanks
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Old 10-28-2017, 11:22 AM   #9
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Get it under cover until you can find a outfit that's qualified to do the repairs.

Start looking here for a company in your area.
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Old 10-28-2017, 11:43 AM   #10
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I have repaired over 30 feet of my roof so far. Same problem. Where every slide cover is attached the rivets have failed. After removing the slide cover I was able to peel the trim up from the bottom to expose the track the rivets are in. The top of the trim stayed sealed. I drilled or pulled out the rivets and replaced with self tapping hex head screws. 1 1/4 inch long. It sucked the roof right down to the side wall. I snapped the trim back over the bottom of the track. Resealed and put new slide toppers on. Done. Sorry I didn't take any pictures.
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Old 10-28-2017, 01:09 PM   #11
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Thanks everyone, especially MARJOA - Hooah! That's why I like this site! I have a metal roof that's in pretty good shape. I've inspected all the vents and penetrations and they're well sealed. Endurabond 4" has been applied all around perimeter. I've had rear a/c replaced because previous owner hit something structural - I found pieces of plywood inside. He replaced the cover and claimed a "rock must have hit it and put a whole in condenser". Shop replacing unit noted that whole roof had been caved in by impact with some welds in roof frame broken. Thus old broken a/c was sitting in the bottom of a shallow "pond" and had been caulked down to prevent leaks. Shop shimmed between luan plywood and styrofoam insulation to raise a/c mounting hole from the "pond" to a slight "hill" for proper water drainage. Genius!

I also noted the cracked caulk seam where the front cap meets the roof and will get on that too. I've sanded and "Rust Reformed" and re-painted all framework around all my basement doors, done same to 10k receiver hitch and rear frame members, removed Monaco Mud Flap and refinished, removed 4 inches from monster front TV cabinet that I was bonking my head on everytime I got in. Removed two slideout covers/awnings and had seam resewn around the little plastic rod that slides into MH track. I'm about to cut away another head-bonker that extends out between my microwave and the cabinets over the kitchen sink.

Good thing I'm retired and like doing stuff like this!
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Old 10-28-2017, 01:24 PM   #12
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Mark.....What you're experiencing with your roof, was a common Monaco issue. The screws pulled out, only at the front of the coach. Some, just one side, like mine, some both sides. Remove the old screws and check the length and diameter. You need to go a little longer and thicker. You'll also need to add some additional screws between the OEM ones. Make sure the head of the screws you use, will still fit under the vinyl trim cover when done.

Lastly, you need to tighten the new ones a little at a time, in a sequence. Start at the outer screws, snugging them and then work your way toward the center screws. There is a lot of stress on that molding and if you try to drive one screw in all at once, you'll strip it out. So, snug a screw, move to the next. Keep doing this until you get the molding drawn back into place.
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:10 AM   #13
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I want to add a caveat to what I said in post#6 about DO NOT use Silicone. Normally, and in most cases this is true.

I know this OP doesn't own a Winnebago and that's why I encouraged him to find his particular model's Callout Sheet for what Monaco calls for concerning sealants.

But I know that many other people read these posts whether it pertains to them or not. So, I want to add a caveat to what I said in post# 16 about DO NOT use Silicone so no one gets misled. On some Winnebago rigs, with fiberglass roofs, you can use silicone IF you have full body paint (FBP). It requires a different product and procedure. You need to read about this more if you have a Winne and FBP.
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