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Old 02-07-2021, 10:39 PM   #1
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RV Electrical Outlet At Home

The house we bought two years ago had a 30 amp electrical outlet installed outside the garage for a travel trailer the previous owner had. The main breaker box in the house has a 30 amp breaker to turn it off/on. It is an odd looking breaker that sometimes trips for some unknown reason. One end of the breaker has a test button.
I can't really trust the breaker not to trip if I am away for a long period of time, so I'm wondering if I should replace the breaker. Not being well versed in electrical matters I do not know if this is some special type breaker for RV service (it looks different from all the other breakers). The outdoor outlet for my RV is the only thing on this circuit.
My question is "does the RV outlet require any special breaker or can I replace with a standard 30 amp breaker? My motorhome uses 50 amp, but I keep it plugged in to the 30 amp outlet to run the refrigerator, maintain batteries, run furnace when freezing, etc. (I keep it plugged up 24 - 7).
Thanks,
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:50 PM   #2
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Could you post a photo?

Mike
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Old 02-08-2021, 04:10 AM   #3
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Reads like the breaker is a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) type. Normally you will find a GFCI outlet or breaker for electrical shock prevention in potentially wet locations. For example kitchens or baths near sinks, garages, laundry rooms. exterior outlets and such. Not sure if the OP's local electrical code requires a GFCI protection for RV 30 amp outlet or the prior owner was just being safe.

Easy to replaced but if you're not sure what to do or don't feel confidant working around or actually inside a breaker panel then hire a licensed electrician to replace the breaker either with the same (if you want to maintain the higher level of electrical safety or if it's required by code) or with a standard single pole 30 amp breaker.
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Old 02-08-2021, 04:49 AM   #4
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Your GFCI breaker is probably tripping for a reason.

Because its both overload and ground fault protection, your don't know why. Replacing it with a standard breaker may not help.

If you can narrow down the times it trips, you may be able to figure out what's causing it, rather then removing the life saving side of its protection, only to find out its being overloaded.
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Old 02-08-2021, 06:50 AM   #5
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Gfci breakers can get weaker with time and may need replacing. If you do, replace like for like as a ground fault is as deadly as a short.

To monitor, get something like a smart plug wifi outlet that can send notification if it looses power.
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Old 02-08-2021, 07:48 AM   #6
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If it is a GFCI breaker it may be tripping due to the refrigerator, some don't play well together.
I use to have to plug into a 20 amp GFCI in my old house, I didn't keep the refrigerator running but when we were getting ready for a trip I and tried to used the electric side of the fridge the outlet would trip. I could run the fridge on LP and it would work fine.


GFCI breakers are required in wet locations. Bathrooms, kitchen, laundry, and garages so it makes sense they have one for a RV plug. Is the plug in a wet locations, is in a exterior type enclosure?



You might turn the breaker off and pull the plug and look to see if there is any moisture on the backside of the plug or moisture in the box. If so you might be able to improvise a cover over it to keep moisture out.



Also, cord are you using, is it a 10 gauge wire cord (30 amp) or is it a small cord. If it is a small cord it adds resistance. What loads are on when the RV is plugged in. If you are running a small heater it could pull 15 amps by itself. Other intermittent loads could overload the circuit. Eliminate any loads you don't actually need and stay below ~25 amps.


Need answers to help you solve the problem.
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Old 02-08-2021, 07:55 AM   #7
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Replace it (gfi) with a 30A of same brand as others in the box. Yes, a refrigerator heater can trip a GFI. At a CG, is the 30A outlet on a GFI...NO.
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Old 02-08-2021, 09:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivylog View Post
Replace it (gfi) with a 30A of same brand as others in the box. Yes, a refrigerator heater can trip a GFI. At a CG, is the 30A outlet on a GFI...NO.
Some CGs are now installing 30 and 50 amp GFCI outlets.

I have read on this site about State campgrounds using them when they rewire.

Never say never.
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Old 02-08-2021, 09:18 AM   #9
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I GFCI is great protection to prevent hot skin on RV. There are testers for trip point too high or too low. But if several small leaks add up to 6ma it will trip. Heating elements like in a water are only insulating media is dead dry. It can eventually absorb moisture at dry or wet side. Motor and transformer windings are only insulated with very thin layer of varnish they all leak some when you test with a Megger testing meter. Plug in one fine add up a whole tiny house not as much. ATS contact blocks know to burn wire terminals could leak to ground there. If it trips immediately it's easier to eliminate items by disconnecting all and re-powering one at a time. If it trips intermittently no reason not so much fun.
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Old 02-08-2021, 09:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivylog View Post
Replace it (gfi) with a 30A of same brand as others in the box. Yes, a refrigerator heater can trip a GFI. At a CG, is the 30A outlet on a GFI...NO.
Which brings up an interesting point. 2020 NEC 210.8 requires GFCI protection for outdoor receptacles in both dwelling units (sub-paragraph A) and other than dwelling units (sub-paragraph B), for all single-phase branch circuits with voltage up to 150V to ground (which includes 240V circuits on a split-phase 120/240V system). It used to specify 15A and 20A, 125V only, but now it looks like it's been expanded, though I don't know how long ago that was.

BUT, RV parks still don't have to use GFCI protection for 30A and 50A sites, at least according to the 2020 NEC [551.71(F)], though rumor has it that will change soon. And even then, existing installations would be grandfathered unless their insurance company thinks otherwise, or unless a park does major work and the local authority forces it.

Of course, the NEC encompasses minimums for life safety and fire protection and so on, and someone can always go above and beyond, and local jurisdictions can, too.

It's the OP's call.
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Old 02-08-2021, 10:06 AM   #11
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My water heater would trip GFI breaker, replaced it with standard breaker and problem went away.
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Old 02-08-2021, 10:43 AM   #12
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It could also be a newer arc fault breaker. They trip even more randomly than gfi! And they have test button.
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Old 02-08-2021, 01:30 PM   #13
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Could you post a photo?

Mike
Photos of entire breaker box and the RV breaker (bottom left breaker). And as you would know - the breaker has not tripped since I made this post.
Attached Images
  
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Old 02-08-2021, 01:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
If it is a GFCI breaker it may be tripping due to the refrigerator, some don't play well together.
I use to have to plug into a 20 amp GFCI in my old house, I didn't keep the refrigerator running but when we were getting ready for a trip I and tried to used the electric side of the fridge the outlet would trip. I could run the fridge on LP and it would work fine.


GFCI breakers are required in wet locations. Bathrooms, kitchen, laundry, and garages so it makes sense they have one for a RV plug. Is the plug in a wet locations, is in a exterior type enclosure?



You might turn the breaker off and pull the plug and look to see if there is any moisture on the backside of the plug or moisture in the box. If so you might be able to improvise a cover over it to keep moisture out.



Also, cord are you using, is it a 10 gauge wire cord (30 amp) or is it a small cord. If it is a small cord it adds resistance. What loads are on when the RV is plugged in. If you are running a small heater it could pull 15 amps by itself. Other intermittent loads could overload the circuit. Eliminate any loads you don't actually need and stay below ~25 amps.


Need answers to help you solve the problem.
It is an outside breaker, but with an enclosure. The outlet is new (I changed it about a week ago with an rv outlet (there is no moisture in the box). I use my standard motorhome 50 amp powercord, plugged in a surge protector, plugged in to a 50 to 30 amp reducer (picture attached). Most of the time the only load is the "residential" refrigerator and battery charging with inverter/converter; sometimes I may run one air conditioner in summer or furnace when it freezes (only a couple time each winter here).
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