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Old 01-14-2017, 09:43 AM   #15
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I have a steel Cleary building, 30x50 located in CO at 8000 ft. elevation. The south side gets really hot in the summer. So hot that at the ceiling height in the summer you can not bare to be on the roof of the coach for any length of time. And just touching the south wall is extremely hot to touch. I did not insulate it, wish I had.
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Old 01-14-2017, 02:50 PM   #16
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I have a steel Cleary building, 30x50 located in CO at 8000 ft. elevation. The south side gets really hot in the summer. So hot that at the ceiling height in the summer you can not bare to be on the roof of the coach for any length of time. And just touching the south wall is extremely hot to touch. I did not insulate it, wish I had.
Wow! 8000 feet, you are way closer to the sun!! Could you still insulate?
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Old 01-14-2017, 07:33 PM   #17
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Thank you all for your informative responses. The overwhelming opinion is that 40' isn't really long enough, it should be 50' long minimum and probably 18' to 20' wide, and that makes sense. Also steel buildings are cheaper but more difficult to insulate from the sun in Arizona. I plan on using a radiant heat barrier which should help but does anyone have any experience trying to cool a steel garage with gable vents, evap coolers or wind turbines? Is that enough to keep the RV from baking in the heat? I'm not looking for a man cave or work shop, just trying to keep the RV out of the sun, wind, dust, rain etc. without baking it in an oven.
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Old 01-14-2017, 08:59 PM   #18
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If you go with metal building, it will need to be insulated other wise it's like an oven in the summer & very cold in winter

Here's my 30x60 Metal Building with 10x60 open lean-to & 20x14 main overhead door. One thing to keep in mind on a metal building, the steel frame will reduce the interior width - my frame & wall purlings take 18" off of each side wall which leaves 27' interior width measured from column to column

Inside of building (including overhead doors) - sprayed with 1 1/2" closed cell foam insulation. No cooling system on building yet - during summer inside temp will be about 5 degrees cooler than outside temp - during winter I use a couple of small convection baseboard heaters - last weekend temp got down to 14 degrees - the heater kept building temp above 50 degrees
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Old 01-14-2017, 09:38 PM   #19
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For the first year we lived in Lake Havasu we parked our 43’ MH in a large RV/Boat storage unit. No heat (not needed) but no air or air circulation either. Typical metal storage construction. It had 14’ high doors but only 10’ wide so was quite a chore backing in carefully. However, the heat inside in the summer was ugly. Not much cooler than outside, just out of direct sun. I’m convinced the heat did us no good with some of the glued together fitments in the RV.

Figure about $50-55/sq ft construction costs for a stick built RV garage in this part of the world, depending on bells and whistles. We built a detached 21x60 stick-built RV garage. 14x14 doors at both ends, gable tile roof to match the house. 2x6 Insulated walls and blown insulation in ceiling, typical AZ/So Cal construction, stucco, foam sheeting and sheetrock. Some high thin windows to let in light, swamp cooler only. We set the thermostat for 85 degrees and even in the middle of the summer “monsoon” season it stays close to 85 in there. Plenty of room for slides to open, have 50 amp power inside and outside the RV garage. We could install AC if we wanted but swamp cooler is fine. Completely finished just under $70K. Important caveat, not counting concrete driveway to get to it in the back yard! If you can live with gravel drive into the RV garage you can save some bucks.
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Old 01-15-2017, 07:30 AM   #20
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I live in Prescott, AZ. I built a 24X44 framed garage with stucco exterior. I would recommend at least 50' or 52' length as the coaches are longer today than when I built. With a 14'X14' door and 24' width you have easy access getting in and out and can work on the unit with slides out.

No need to insulate in Prescott as our nights are cool in summer and our days go above freezing in winter. Your quote for a 40' from a contractor seems reasonable but I would get one for a 50'-52' length.

I you have any questions PM me.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-15-2017, 02:44 PM   #21
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We have a open carport with the sides enclosed. The 2 ends are open, one has a gable end. It's 40x24. If I did it again, I would make it 50x24. Carports.com. Approximately $6000. Had it over 6 years now. Even survived Hurricane Sandy. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-16-2017, 08:19 AM   #22
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We have a open carport with the sides enclosed. The 2 ends are open, one has a gable end. It's 40x24. If I did it again, I would make it 50x24. Carports.com. Approximately $6000. Had it over 6 years now. Even survived Hurricane Sandy. Attachment 149181
That looks really nice! I'm jealous. Hopefully come about June, we'll have pictures of OUR RV garage too.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:10 PM   #23
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We've been researching insulation for metal buildings and found this, insulation4less.com. It's a radiant barrier material. If the write ups are accurate, it will make a huge difference in a metal building. Agree with everyone on the length...minimum 50'. Our Pole Barn is 60'x38'. The RV bay is 60'x22' and patio is 60'x16'.
There is no magic bullet for insulation. The bubble insulation is pure hype. Discussions on the GarageJournal.com forums in the past (and I participated heavily for about ten years) were all essentially the same, if its thin, it isn't any good. Either the place is sealed nearly air tight with a spray in closed cell foam, or some sort of thick styrofoam or regular fiberglass insulation bats will do the best job. I have a 60x60 steel building (aircraft hangar) with the 2 inch fiberglass insulation with the vinyl backing that is put on then the external sheeting is screwed in place. Its not perfect, but it prevents the broiler effect. I find the best way to prevent heat buildup in the summer is to open the building up on both ends and with the help of ceiling fans to push the heat out from the peak area, allow the wind to carry out the heat. It gets hot here in 'Jawja too.

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Old 01-16-2017, 09:03 PM   #24
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My advise would depend on your finances and needs. If you have the finances built as big a building as zoning and lot size allows relative to cosmetics. The building will be an asset so you ,or someone, will get your money back someday. Up here in the northwest metal buildings don't have the value but they do provide cover and security at a slightly reduced cost but you have to look at numbers carefully. Most metal buildings are priced as a package and prices climb as electrical, insulation, custom colors ect.
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