RV new b need's some guidance

[Judys B Jeff]

Hi hope everyone's covid free & doing well

My girl & myself just purchased a 1989 Rexhall Airex 28'class A coach
we're new to the Rv living thing so we're trying to check everything out
to make sure things work .
Right now we're having an issue with the electrical We were told the RV was parked for a few years so we're not sure what's going on but here's what is happening...
I might as well start at beginning the electric stairs aren't working no 110 AC
no 12 volt power no onboard generator.. We were told all we needed to do was plug it in for awhile and it would be all good .
so at this time we're living in our class C motor so the only thing we can do
is plug in to our Ryobi 2300 inverter generator so the other day
we had it plugged in for 10 - 12 hrs then that night when we got our stuff
ready to go sleep in the class C when we unplugged the Airex everything
went dark so the next day we planned on getting the battery replaced
but before we did that we tested it and it said 12.77 so we tried plugging it in again after a few hours we unplugged rv from power and same thing nothing worked except I was up in the drivers seat trying to figure out what these 3 mystery buttons on the dash one looked like it was for reading the next one had a picture of a battery on it (still not sure what it does) & the last one has pic of a lightning bolt well being the curious one that I am I
start pushing buttons & next thing ya know we hear something and its onboard generator trying to start..
Day 3 nothing until plugged into Generator we checked battery & again it's 12.7??
Im at a loss at first I thought bad battery but after talking to a guy at
san Leandro RV I'm wondering if it might be the converter ? anybody
got any info or thoughts as to what & how I should check next. or maybe a website that might help me figure this out ?

Thanks 4 Looking I could really use some help

[New2road]

Wow, congrats on the new rig but best of luck in troubleshooting.

I have no insight on that rig, but would say that the steps are normally powered off the battery direct.
The no 110, are you sure that rig has a converter? Some of the older rigs required being plugged into shore power for 110 circuit to power up.
Start with what works, does the rig start? that would indicate the chassis bat is good enough to start the unit.
The battery charger should be running off 110 while on shore power, and then from engine alternator while engine is operating.
Really sounds like your house batteries need a charge or replacement.
have you topped off your batteries with DI water? You can pull them and have them tested at shop or battery store.
I would start with finding some information about the rig. check vintage forum and see if anyone has similar rig. hunt down schematics.

j

[lola and i]

12.7 volts means nothing if you don't have the amps to push it, this is a 31 yr old rv which you said the previous owner identified had been parked for awhile so you will need to start from the point of a solid foundation. First pull the battery's and get them load tested and while they are out disassemble and clean each battery cable terminal end with baking soda and a old toothbrush AND lightly sand each end of all of your battery cables including chassis ground then reassemble each connector with a light coat of electric terminal grease reinstall the tested good or new battery's and then if you are having problems you can easily isolate them to that branch circuit.
If this is beyond your skill set hire a professional as electrical work even minor 12v stuff requires a bit of knowledge to be done safely.

[FIRE UP]

Judy's,
First off, may I make a constructive comment? Put some punctuation, some periods, commas, paragraph breaks etc. in your post(s). I was going cross-eyed trying to read and it was all blending in together. This is not criticism, not in any way shape or form. Just some friendly advice.

Now, second, my mother and father in law, had THE SAME EXACT COACH which, we borrowed many times for use when we were in between RV's. It was a nice coach for its time. I can't remember if, in '89 they had the 460 cu. in. or V-10 Ford engine. In any case, it ran quite well.

Third, I don't know how mechanically inclined you or your significant other is, but, in a situation like you're facing, it helps to have as much mechanical skills and or, background in mechanics as possible so that analytical skills can be put to work. If you or yours are not all that mechanical, not a real big deal. Even some basics can be of use here. And speaking of basics, you don't say what kind of *tools* you might possess that would help with your endeavor here.

Fourth, BEGIN with the basics. You have touched on the battery and state it's around 12.7, correct? Well, as has been stated, that doesn't mean much if it's what's called a *Surface charge*. A surface charge is a false reading of a batteries condition. You very well might have 12.7V but, put a real load on it, like lights, trying to start the gen or engine, furnace etc, and, NOTHING. It can't handle any load at all but, still shows 12.7. You first need to find the age of your battery. And speaking of that, you need do differentiate the two systems in your coach.

By that I mean, you have a CHASSIS battery AND, you have a COACH battery or batteries, depending if there are multiple ones. They are totally TWO different systems. The Chassis batteries sole purpose is to run the chassis and start the main engine with minor exceptions. Some entry steps and a few odds and ends, also depend on the chassis battery.

Your COACH battery system, is there to provide 12V to any and all 12v appliances inside the coach. Lights, furnace, part of the refrigerator, water pump, etc. Sooooo, again, you need to find out the age of ALL the batteries in the coach, and, if they're as old as I think they are, CHUCK THEM in the nearest battery receiving station and GET NEW ONES. It doesn't do any good to try and go any further into analyzing ANY electrical problems/issues, if you 've got a bad source of juice (slang term for battery voltage and amperage).

Once you have taken care of the battery situation, the next and most important item of interest is the CHARGING SYSTEM(S) of those new batteries. This is where things can get a tad bit complicated. To replenish a coach battery on 99.99999% of the gas coaches made for decades, is what's called a *Converter*. And, often called a Converter/Charger. A coaches *House battery* (same as Coach battery) get's run down after some use, especially if you're "boon docking" out away from any hookups. So, you need to replenish that 12V in that house battery.

So, the Converter/Charger steps into action, but, ONLY when the coach is PLUGGED INTO SHORE POWER! The converter/charger needs power from shore power so it can do its job. Now, how can you tell if it's doing its job? Well, in short, you need one of the most basic of electrical analytical tools that a very, very large percentage of us carry. It's called a *VOM* or, Volt Ohm Meter.

A basic Volt Ohm Meter will run you anywhere from about $5.00 at your local Harbor Freight to, oh, maybe $30-$50 at an auto parts store or, Lowes or Home Depot. I highly recommend a more expensive one due to better componentry inside the little meters. Besides, it's something that you'll have for quite a while and is VERY, VERY useful in these and many other electrical analyzing situations.

Now, back to the batteries and the converter/charger. Here's a simple test on how to tell if even the basics of the converter and or, converter/charger are working.

1. Make sure all batteries are either new or, have been professionally tested with a LOAD test to determine they are fit for duty.

2. Make sure all your battery CONNECTIONS are clean, tight and secure. And that means analyzing any and all battery CABLES to see if they are in need of replacing.

3. Once all that is done, and the batteries (we're talking coach or "house" batteries here), are checked out, cables good and clean and connected you begin the test.

4. With your coach NOT PLUGGED INTO SHORE POWER, put your VOM on the setting to read 12V. Check your house battery voltage, making sure you have NO LOAD ON THEM, like interior lighting, furnace, water pump, heater, anything that will draw on those house batteries must be off. Note your reading.

5. Now, plug your shore power cord into shore power or if all you have is a generator, then start the generator. Once the gen has settled down, (sometimes they take a minute or two BEFORE they begin to supply 120VAC to power the components on/in the coach) then, take another voltage reading of your house batter(ies) and, again, note the reading(s).

6. If your readings when plugged into shore power, are higher than the *at rest* voltage (not plugged in), then your converter/charger is more than likely performing as it's supposed to.

7. But, if there is NO DIFFERENCE between the readings of at rest, and plugged in, then your converter/charger or, any fuses or circuit breakers involved in the converter/charger operations are either blown or need attention.

This is where I mentioned that background skills really are of value here. Them more you know about 12V systems, the easier the tests and or analyzing of components is.

All that I've talked about and explained above, is the root of RV operations. If you have a well working 12V house battery operation, and, it's charging system is up to the task, then the rest of RV operations and investigation is much easier. You really can't do any decent investigation into anything that includes or uses 12V in an RV, without having GOOD 12v operations. You're chasing your tail if you begin at the middle of component operation and, you've got lousy 12V supply and/or replenishing equipment is malfunctioning.

OH, by the way, I forgot to mention, the converter and or converter/charger has one, or two duties. If it's a CONVERTER only, it's job is to CONVERT 120VAC that comes into the coach via shore power or generator power, into 12VDC so that all the interior 12V components will work, without using battery power. But, if it's a CONVERTER/CHARGER (which many of them are), then it will not only convert any 120VAC into 12V for operations in the coach but, it will also CHARGE your house/coach battery(ies) when plugged in.

This is why I say you should have a higher reading on your house battery(ies) when plugged into shore power or using a generator due to the charging side of the Converter/charger doing its job.

Ok, enough blabbing for now. I hope I've not bored you and maybe even helped some. The Airex coach was in reality, a pretty nice coach in it's day. Very aerodynamic. Rexall's primary issue was poor quality in fiberglass shine retention. My father-in-laws Airex went completely dull after about a year. Rexall offered to actually paint it, free of charge, if any and all owners would venture back to the factory at their own expense. I don't know how many took them up on that offer, my father-in-law didn't and he paid the price of a dull looking coach for a long time.
Scott

[RELHUB]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Judy's,
First off, may I make a constructive comment? Put some punctuation, some periods, commas, paragraph breaks etc. in your post(s). I was going cross-eyed trying to read and it was all blending in together. This is not criticism, not in any way shape or form. Just some friendly advice.

Now, second, my mother and father in law, had THE SAME EXACT COACH which, we borrowed many times for use when we were in between RV's. It was a nice coach for its time. I can't remember if, in '89 they had the 460 cu. in. or V-10 Ford engine. In any case, it ran quite well.

Third, I don't know how mechanically inclined you or your significant other is, but, in a situation like you're facing, it helps to have as much mechanical skills and or, background in mechanics as possible so that analytical skills can be put to work. If you or yours are not all that mechanical, not a real big deal. Even some basics can be of use here. And speaking of basics, you don't say what kind of *tools* you might possess that would help with your endeavor here.

Fourth, BEGIN with the basics. You have touched on the battery and state it's around 12.7, correct? Well, as has been stated, that doesn't mean much if it's what's called a *Surface charge*. A surface charge is a false reading of a batteries condition. You very well might have 12.7V but, put a real load on it, like lights, trying to start the gen or engine, furnace etc, and, NOTHING. It can't handle any load at all but, still shows 12.7. You first need to find the age of your battery. And speaking of that, you need do differentiate the two systems in your coach.

By that I mean, you have a CHASSIS battery AND, you have a COACH battery or batteries, depending if there are multiple ones. They are totally TWO different systems. The Chassis batteries sole purpose is to run the chassis and start the main engine with minor exceptions. Some entry steps and a few odds and ends, also depend on the chassis battery.

Your COACH battery system, is there to provide 12V to any and all 12v appliances inside the coach. Lights, furnace, part of the refrigerator, water pump, etc. Sooooo, again, you need to find out the age of ALL the batteries in the coach, and, if they're as old as I think they are, CHUCK THEM in the nearest battery receiving station and GET NEW ONES. It doesn't do any good to try and go any further into analyzing ANY electrical problems/issues, if you 've got a bad source of juice (slang term for battery voltage and amperage).

Once you have taken care of the battery situation, the next and most important item of interest is the CHARGING SYSTEM(S) of those new batteries. This is where things can get a tad bit complicated. To replenish a coach battery on 99.99999% of the gas coaches made for decades, is what's called a *Converter*. And, often called a Converter/Charger. A coaches *House battery* (same as Coach battery) get's run down after some use, especially if you're "boon docking" out away from any hookups. So, you need to replenish that 12V in that house battery.

So, the Converter/Charger steps into action, but, ONLY when the coach is PLUGGED INTO SHORE POWER! The converter/charger needs power from shore power so it can do its job. Now, how can you tell if it's doing its job? Well, in short, you need one of the most basic of electrical analytical tools that a very, very large percentage of us carry. It's called a *VOM* or, Volt Ohm Meter.

A basic Volt Ohm Meter will run you anywhere from about $5.00 at your local Harbor Freight to, oh, maybe $30-$50 at an auto parts store or, Lowes or Home Depot. I highly recommend a more expensive one due to better componentry inside the little meters. Besides, it's something that you'll have for quite a while and is VERY, VERY useful in these and many other electrical analyzing situations.

Now, back to the batteries and the converter/charger. Here's a simple test on how to tell if even the basics of the converter and or, converter/charger are working.

1. Make sure all batteries are either new or, have been professionally tested with a LOAD test to determine they are fit for duty.

2. Make sure all your battery CONNECTIONS are clean, tight and secure. And that means analyzing any and all battery CABLES to see if they are in need of replacing.

3. Once all that is done, and the batteries (we're talking coach or "house" batteries here), are checked out, cables good and clean and connected you begin the test.

4. With your coach NOT PLUGGED INTO SHORE POWER, put your VOM on the setting to read 12V. Check your house battery voltage, making sure you have NO LOAD ON THEM, like interior lighting, furnace, water pump, heater, anything that will draw on those house batteries must be off. Note your reading.

5. Now, plug your shore power cord into shore power or if all you have is a generator, then start the generator. Once the gen has settled down, (sometimes they take a minute or two BEFORE they begin to supply 120VAC to power the components on/in the coach) then, take another voltage reading of your house batter(ies) and, again, note the reading(s).

6. If your readings when plugged into shore power, are higher than the *at rest* voltage (not plugged in), then your converter/charger is more than likely performing as it's supposed to.

7. But, if there is NO DIFFERENCE between the readings of at rest, and plugged in, then your converter/charger or, any fuses or circuit breakers involved in the converter/charger operations are either blown or need attention.

This is where I mentioned that background skills really are of value here. Them more you know about 12V systems, the easier the tests and or analyzing of components is.

All that I've talked about and explained above, is the root of RV operations. If you have a well working 12V house battery operation, and, it's charging system is up to the task, then the rest of RV operations and investigation is much easier. You really can't do any decent investigation into anything that includes or uses 12V in an RV, without having GOOD 12v operations. You're chasing your tail if you begin at the middle of component operation and, you've got lousy 12V supply and/or replenishing equipment is malfunctioning.

OH, by the way, I forgot to mention, the converter and or converter/charger has one, or two duties. If it's a CONVERTER only, it's job is to CONVERT 120VAC that comes into the coach via shore power or generator power, into 12VDC so that all the interior 12V components will work, without using battery power. But, if it's a CONVERTER/CHARGER (which many of them are), then it will not only convert any 120VAC into 12V for operations in the coach but, it will also CHARGE your house/coach battery(ies) when plugged in.

This is why I say you should have a higher reading on your house battery(ies) when plugged into shore power or using a generator due to the charging side of the Converter/charger doing its job.

Ok, enough blabbing for now. I hope I've not bored you and maybe even helped some. The Airex coach was in reality, a pretty nice coach in it's day. Very aerodynamic. Rexall's primary issue was poor quality in fiberglass shine retention. My father-in-laws Airex went completely dull after about a year. Rexall offered to actually paint it, free of charge, if any and all owners would venture back to the factory at their own expense. I don't know how many took them up on that offer, my father-in-law didn't and he paid the price of a dull looking coach for a long time.
Scott

Great Thoughtful Advice and a very good read

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by RELHUB

Great Thoughtful Advice and a very good read

Does you RV have a Battery Disconnect Switch?
If OFF--no dc from battery

Have you checked/verified that the POS Cable from Battery that goes to DC Dist Panel has DC Voltage when NOT connected to AC Power (Shore or Gen)??
Should be an In-line Fuse on that Battery POS Cable CLOSE to battery ....if blown no DC from Battery

When On AC Power..converter is supplying ALL of the DC System


Voltmeter is an RVrs best friend.


Good Luck!


Here is a Basic Block Diagram of RV Electrical System with a 'Converter' (AC Input...DC Output)

[GypsyR]

You might want to ask about various switches on the Rexhall specific forum. You wouldn't want to take things all apart only to find it was just some non-obvious switch turned off.

I have an old Newmar and was helping the new owner of a same year model Tiffin only to find some of his setup was radically different from mine to the point that I stepped back and had him ask Tiffin owners on here about his issues. (No real issues, just having to figure out what was what with no manual.)

[Persistent]

Originally Posted by Judys B Jeff

...

1989 Rexhall Airex 28'class A coach
... RV was parked for a few years ...
... electric stairs aren't working no 110 AC
... no 12 volt power no onboard generator..
... we're living in our class C motor
... plug in to our Ryobi 2300 inverter generator ... for 10 - 12 hrs ...
... when we unplugged the Airex everything went dark ...
... tested 12.77
... 3 mystery buttons on the dash one looked like it was for reading the next one had a picture of a battery on it (still not sure what it does) & the last one has pic of a lightning bolt well being the curious one that I am I
start pushing buttons & next thing ya know we hear something and its onboard generator trying to start..
Day 3 nothing until plugged into Generator we checked battery & again it's 12.7??
... might be the converter ? ...

1) Lead acid batteries don't do well when stored discharged. Always store fully charged. Your batteries may be compromised, but they are probably not the cause of missing 12 volt power. 12.8 volts means they are charged. Presuming some appliances were "on" while you tested, the batteries should support lights. Battery voltage may drop under load, but lights should work if loaded voltage is above 11.5 volts.

2) Old RV tires are a risk. Get dates from side walls. Less than 5 years is good. More than 10 is bad. Risk increases from 5 years on. 10 years means failure is near. “DOT week/year”

3) There are two 12 volt systems in your RV. One is for engine start (Chassis). The other is for living space (House). I presume the chassis system is OK. The engine starts and runs OK. The button on the dash that triggered the on-board generator may be a switch that connects the two 12 volt systems. So, it allowed chassis batteries to start the on-board generator when pushed.

4) House system works when using the shore power cord. That means the converter is working OK. It is probably a converter/charger. Some RV’s also have an inverter with transfer switch. Your RV has an on board generator and so probably at least has a transfer switch.

5) RV's are wired many different ways. I don't know about yours specifically.

A house 12 volt switch is “off” and needs to be turned “on”. Many RV’s have a switch next to the entry door, maybe in a cabinet or on a control panel. Some people call it a “Salesman Switch”. It is a master 12 volt disconnect switch. Most but not all 12 volt circuits are turned off by this switch. Since you have lights on shore power, this master switch is probably “on”.

There may be another master switch near the house battery bank. Owners often install it to disconnect all 12 circuits for storage. If your RV has one, it may be “off”. That would be a good thing because if the house batteries are disconnected and at 12.8 volts, they are probably in excellent shape. Check water levels, turn the switch “on” and you are good to go.

The negative or positive cable to the house battery bank is disconnected. Many owners disconnect one cable for storage. Reconnect the battery cable.

When connected to shore power (external generator), the built in converter/charger should be charging the house battery bank. The voltage on the battery terminals should slowly rise to 13.6 volts or more. If it does not, then the batteries are probably not charging. They may be disconnected.
A user installed disconnect switch is “off”.
A wire is loose. Look at both positive and negative (ground) connections.
A connection is corroded to the point of being disconnected.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!

[BOOZE TRAVEL]

Do you only have 1 battery? There should be 1 for the chassis (engine), and a separate 1or more for the house (camper) part. Maybe someone took out the house batteries, or they are dead. If that is the case it would drive and run but have no power for the interior of the house side.
You may just have a disconnect for those batteries that is off.

[Ray,IN]

This utube video may help identify control buttons and switches even though the MH is a 1990 model;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNTDAl_74ZM