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HoneyBadger · 11-21-2018, 11:58 AM

I have a recently purchased '97 Gulfstream Sun Voyager diesel pusher with a Cat 3026.

Loaded her up, jumped in this morning, turned the key and nothing.

I put the charger on the chassis batteries and they read OK voltage; used the engine start mode with no result.

2 things I note; the yellow inlet heater light is not illuminated when I turn the key, although other lights, like park and low air are illuminated. I also hear a ding-ding noise I don't recognize, although I'll admit maybe I haven't been paying close attention previously.

The red light above the battery disconnect switch in the stairwell for the chassis batteries is dim; this seems to indicate low charge, at least that's what I experienced on the house battery side. I clicked it on and off several times; I can hear the "clunk" and light goes off, light comes back on, dimly.

I started and drive the MH yesterday with no apparent issues, but the last short trip I took she refused to start when leaving the campground; I thought it was a dead battery (all the batteries are old and need replacement), used the charger and she started. Has started ok several times since.

I'm a widow with very little experience with diesels (I was the flashlight-holder and brake-pumper in our marriage); any help y'all might give me would be deeply appreciated.

harris155 · 11-21-2018, 12:03 PM

First thing I would look at is all the battery connections, battery link connections and battery ground connections.
The reason being is you put a charger on and the batteries seemed OK.
One day it is OK the next not.

HoneyBadger · 11-21-2018, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harris155

First thing I would look at is all the battery connections, battery link connections and battery ground connections.
The reason being is you put a charger on and the batteriesthis morning seemed OK.
One day it is OK the next not.

I cleaned up and used anti-oxidation goop all the battery connections this morning. No difference.

krivanj · 11-21-2018, 12:17 PM

If you can do so, put a voltmeter on each battery. Assuming they are 12 volt batteries (they would have 6 water vents on top), each should read at least 12.3v. Or find someone to help you.
If they are less than that, that might be your problem.

harris155 · 11-21-2018, 12:21 PM

Since you remade all those connections I would follow the cables from the batteries to the manual battery disconect switch, and finally to the engine starting solenoid.

If you are handy with a volt meter, the negative on ground, measure all along the postive connections looking for at least 12 volts.

You may have 12 volts with no load, try with the ignition ON when all the buzzers are going off and the light you mentioned is dim.

Sure sounds like a poor connection issue to me.

Good Luck

jacwjames · 11-21-2018, 12:23 PM

Is park brake set? What about jack down? May be an interlock.

On my rig there is a toggle switch in the back near the engine that enables starting from rear, I accidentally hit it and the rig wouldn't start.

My chassis battery isolator switch also went bad, I bypassed to check and then replaced when I found it bad.

HJLowell · 11-21-2018, 12:43 PM

When you state.
( All the batteries are old and need to ve replaced. ) End quote.

I would not waist my time until I had installed all new , correct
Batteries.

Otherwise.

Your trying to ride a dead horse to Kansas for Thanksgiving Dinner.

HoneyBadger · 11-21-2018, 12:50 PM

The chassis batteries (pair of 12 v) are reading 12.8 volts.

Parking brake is set, light is illuminated on dash, no levelers.

The battery cables go directly to this thing; what is it?
I will get the meter out and crawl around testing connections when the rain lets up a bit.

HoneyBadger · 11-21-2018, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Haggard

When you state.
( All the batteries are old and need to ve replaced. ) End quote.

I would not waist my time until I had installed all new , correct
Batteries.

Otherwise.

Your trying to ride a dead horse to Kansas for Thanksgiving Dinner.

While your point is not untrue, the issue today is not with the chassis batteries. They are ok at 12.8 volts.

I don't think new batteries are the answer.

HoneyBadger · 11-21-2018, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacwjames

Is park brake set? What about jack down? May be an interlock.

On my rig there is a toggle switch in the back near the engine that enables starting from rear, I accidentally hit it and the rig wouldn't start.

My chassis battery isolator switch also went bad, I bypassed to check and then replaced when I found it bad.

Mine is a rear radiator; no toggle switches back there. Maybe under the bed, where you access the engine?

Podivin · 11-21-2018, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HoneyBadger

Mine is a rear radiator; no toggle switches back there. Maybe under the bed, where you access the engine?

I don't KNOW, but yes, I expect this is the place to start.
I've read other threads here where people hit this toggle switch by accident, didn't know they did it, didn't even know it existed.
So poke your head in there and see if there is a sneaky switch somewhere that an elbow or knee could bump it.
Note that this is likely only the issue if you have been in this compartment since the last time the coach started as it should.

Darwin · 11-21-2018, 01:19 PM

Be sure trans is Neutral. I had that problem once and that was the problem, I had shut down without shifting out of drive.

Podivin · 11-21-2018, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HoneyBadger

The red light above the battery disconnect switch in the stairwell for the chassis batteries is dim; this seems to indicate low charge, at least that's what I experienced on the house battery side. I clicked it on and off several times; I can hear the "clunk" and light goes off, light comes back on, dimly.

If you can relatively easily get to it, it might be worth bypassing the solenoid (the thing that goes 'clunk') to see if this is the issue. It should be a simple matter of putting both of the heavy cables on the same post.
Right now they are likely on opposite sides of the solenoid, with one or two smaller cables on posts between them.
It doesn't matter which post you use, you're just putting the cables together so that they touch each other, thereby bypassing the solenoid.

Podivin · 11-21-2018, 01:24 PM

And my last thought (for now at least) is that ding ding noise you're not sure you've ever heard before.
I wonder if that's trying to tell you something.
Turn on the key, or whatever it takes to make it ding, the looks for a light that you don't remember seeing. Probably on the dash, but I suppose it could be elsewhere in the coach.