Community Forums

RVThere · 05-25-2021, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Card

What do you mean "straight top approach"?

Same question here!

rheine3, please post some pics of your retrofit!

rheine3 · 05-25-2021, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Card

What do you mean "straight top approach"?

No wrap around duct. I will start a new thread.

Tony65 · 07-20-2021, 06:57 PM

Hi RVThere!

This year I have to do the same job.

Since you've already seen the backbone of the A/C unit, I wanted to ask you a question. In your opinion, to facilitate maintenance, would it be possible to mount the unit on sliding guides, so as to make it removable?

Obviously we must also think of a locking system, but if this is feasible, think about how much easier it would be to do ordinary maintenance.

There are guides that easily hold 264 pounds (see photo) and cost around $ 25 each.

Putting 3 or 4 would result in a very solid and practical sliding unit.

If you place the lid on hinges instead of closing it with screws, it becomes even easier to do routine maintenance.

Do you think it's possible?

Jim_HiTek · 07-20-2021, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony65

Hi RVThere!

This year I have to do the same job.

Since you've already seen the backbone of the A/C unit, I wanted to ask you a question. In your opinion, to facilitate maintenance, would it be possible to mount the unit on sliding guides, so as to make it removable?

Obviously we must also think of a locking system, but if this is feasible, think about how much easier it would be to do ordinary maintenance.

There are guides that easily hold 264 pounds (see photo) and cost around $ 25 each.

Putting 3 or 4 would result in a very solid and practical sliding unit.

If you place the lid on hinges instead of closing it with screws, it becomes even easier to do routine maintenance.

Do you think it's possible?

Not sure that would work for most basement air unit installations because there's not much room to widen the cage it fits in. There's ~1/8th inch on each side of my Coleman so that means a new rack, or metal work at the minimum, to fit the rails in. That 1/8th" is where the heads of the screws that go into the Coleman are so, zero clearance. Looking at mine just now, it looks like it would be a bear getting things to fit on the vent side too.

They don't need to be removed all that often. Really nothing to maintain for years at a time. And using a lever, isn't that hard to pull out.

Oh, sorry, I just noticed this was meant for RVThere!.

Tony65 · 07-20-2021, 07:17 PM

No problem. It is something that could be of interest to everyone. It is true that maintenance of these units is quite rare, but at least to give them a dusting a year would not be bad.

RVThere · 07-21-2021, 01:56 AM

Jim - no problem jumping in as I agree that there’s no room for side rails nor support to attach them.

Tony - I found the hardest part of removal is not sliding it out but that darn air plenum that you need to disconnect and very precisely reconnect.

You do have room and support for bottom slides however there’s so much road debris that gets kicked up those slides would be gunked up in no time. Maybe two Teflon pieces along the bottom to reduce the sliding friction??

Good luck on a big job!

Have you removed the AC yet to assess? I was surprised by how deteriorated my rear supports were!

Tony65 · 07-21-2021, 03:42 AM

My A/C unit, a Coleman-Mach 6535-871, still runs like clockwork after 20 years.

For the rust, from the outside it still looks in good condition, also because over the years I have always cleaned the frame and sheet metal and treated them with a lot of rustproofing.

I hope it can go on for a few more years.

Tony65 · 07-21-2021, 05:09 AM

That idea of a Teflon base could be even a better idea, because now that I think about it, with the metal guides there would be a strong increase in the vibrations of the A/C unit and this could do damage.

A nice Teflon sheet, under the unit, would act as a damper as well as protect against any splashes of water.

rheine3 · 07-21-2021, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony65

That idea of a Teflon base could be even a better idea, because now that I think about it, with the metal guides there would be a strong increase in the vibrations of the A/C unit and this could do damage.

A nice Teflon sheet, under the unit, would act as a damper as well as protect against any splashes of water.

I installed two HPDE strips on the bottom frame rails. I pull my table lift up to height and she slides out with less than half the force. When running I am getting almost zero vibration or noise. Just finished my top to side unit replacement BTW. All is working great.

Kvw613 · 07-21-2021, 07:29 AM

To facilitate getting the ac unit lowered for replacement or repairs, we used a motorcycle jack with a piece of plywood over the frames. Much less manhandling.

BCam · 07-21-2021, 07:35 AM

Here's a link to a thread on Winnieowners.com about adapting a new basement air unit with rear return to fit a MH that requires a top return:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...-361277-4.html

rheine3 · 07-21-2021, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BCam

Here's a link to a thread on Winnieowners.com about adapting a new basement air unit with rear return to fit a MH that requires a top return:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...-361277-4.html

Yes, that's my recent project. All done now.

Rick

whitti · 07-22-2021, 03:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony65

My A/C unit, a Coleman-Mach 6535-871, still runs like clockwork after 20 years.

For the rust, from the outside it still looks in good condition, also because over the years I have always cleaned the frame and sheet metal and treated them with a lot of rustproofing.

I hope it can go on for a few more years.

Tony, not sure what maintenance you are performing, but I have a full set of new capacitors I am happy to sell you for a deal. I ended up having to buy a new unit after replacing all the capacitors didn’t fix my issue.

Tony65 · 07-23-2021, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitti

Tony, not sure what maintenance you are performing, but I have a full set of new capacitors I am happy to sell you for a deal. I ended up having to buy a new unit after replacing all the capacitors didn’t fix my issue.

But mine still works like a clock, it just needs a good dusting.

But I might have the solution for this cases, a bottle of snake oil that solves the problem.

I sell it for only $ 100 ... look what a unique opportunity!