Community Forums

JHowell · 12-12-2021, 06:12 PM

This is not unusual to happen to brakes. This Grove will not hurt your stopping power. 41 thousand miles should not need brakes. Let alone until pads need changed

BigBillSD · 12-12-2021, 06:15 PM

I am guessing your Phaeton is on a FL chassis. Our local FL place here in San Diego doesn't even take appointments. You just show up before 7am and they work on it that day. It sounds like you are someone's "mark" for an upcoming boat payment. My cummins dealer always likes to add odd expensive repairs to try to drum up sales. Last two times it was front seal ($2k) as they said its seeping. That oil stain with dirt has been there for 5 years. Never seen a drip on the ground or behind it on the rear cap. Was thinking I should crawl under there and wipe it off prior to my yearly visit next month, see if they still put it on there.

momcat · 12-12-2021, 06:39 PM

I think this is what the dealers do the inspections for. Throw a scare and make themselves a job. I would get the hell out of their!!! MOMCAT

Steve578 · 12-12-2021, 06:47 PM

The picture of the rotor doesn't look too bad. It's hard to judge what is needed without a good visual inspection. The amount of work your shop is recommending is suspicious. You definitely need a second opinion from a reputable truck brake shop.

153stars · 12-12-2021, 07:05 PM

There also trying to double charge labor for front bearings. The tires rotors and brakes will be off. My guesstimate and looking at semi bearings ,races ,seal $250 parts so $750 labor to clean spindle and pack install new set is ludicrous.

Jarlaxle · 12-12-2021, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyMac

Why replace the bearings?

That is probably the UWFSP line on the bill.

(Unneeded Work For Shop Profit)

R.Wold · 12-12-2021, 07:33 PM

Good ol’ UWFSP.....

Jarlaxle · 12-12-2021, 07:36 PM

Which they may or may not actually perform, or may just bill you for if it's not visible. (like...wheel bearings!)

Rich H. · 12-12-2021, 08:35 PM

Take a drive to Chicks in the Sunshine State
They are the best there is
https://cf-w.com/

monci · 12-13-2021, 05:29 AM

Don't do anything the rotor. This happens when a rock gets stuck at the pad somewhere and makes a groove like you have shown. Machining it down will only wear out your rotor for nothing.

Don G · 12-13-2021, 05:32 AM

I am a certified tech Working on cars and trucks for 40 years. I would never recommend replacing brakes due to a minor scrape on the brake rotor like this. As long as the brake pads are in good condition, I would drive it until the brakes are worn. As far as the wheel bearings are concerned, I would clean and repack with grease during a routine brake job and replace if they are worn.

TonyMac · 12-13-2021, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jarlaxle

Which they may or may not actually perform, or may just bill you for if it's not visible. (like...wheel bearings!)

So, here's a fun thing to do. When you drop it off, have a cardboard box. Tell them to put all replaced parts in the box. If you see parts on the bill that aren't in the box, question the service manager about this. If you see serviceable parts in the box, question the service manager on this. They love to play this game!

TeJay · 12-13-2021, 08:35 AM

Most of the reply's I don't totally disagree with. The grove issues I do. The grove itself might be ignored but more importantly is the smooth rotor surface. I know we all realize brakes work by creating friction. How in the heck is that rotor going to create much if any friction? Secondly the two surfaces rotor and brake pad must come together so 100% of the surfaces are touching each other. If not you again won't create the required friction to facilitate proper safe braking.

I'd never, never re-use a pad even if there's still has some remaining. What part of burnishing and prepping both surfaces by allowing 200 stops and starts before brake rotors and pads have reached their best friction creating condition do some folks just not understand???

Those above standards are not mine but the federal governments guidelines for proper braking. Material from pads is transferred onto the rotors during the burnishing process. Smooth surfaces on rotors & pads does not create enough heat nor friction and braking will suffer. MHO says to NEVER scrimp on brake repair and allow others to be in your sights because you can't safely stop your RV.

Maybe the grove can be overlooked if minimal re-surfacing can flatten that rotor. If not then that rotor needs to be replaced. I'd never run that rotor again. Silly to even consider it.

Don't know for sure but it takes very little for a rotor to stick momentarily which will then create more heat which continues the caliper sticking which eventually can cause the rotor grove we see.

We can't overlook obvious failures because we believe it should have lasted longer. That's just faulty dangerous thinking IMHO. A defective failing part is just that regardless of how long it should have lasted.

As far as bearings if a tapered roller bearing is failing a quick inspection of the rollers will spot it. If the hardness of those rollers is still intact then don't spend $$$$ to replace a good part. We all should know how to recognize a defective bearing. Just ask them why they believe they need replaced and for them to show you the metal flake in the grease. Very, very simple diagnosis even a 10 year old kid can see. If it's their policy to replace without checking then don't use that shop. They are doing it for profit only. Some shops would just repack them and charge you for new replacement bearings. Nice $300 to $400 profit for little work.

roadrunner 2 · 12-13-2021, 10:32 AM

I have found using a mobile mechanic reduces the cost as much as 50%. I had 3 dealers screw me on brake repair. All 3 miss diagnosed the problem. The Mobile mechanic found it and fixed it the same day for 1/2 of what the in-house places wanted to fix it.