Community Forums

Bigd9 · 10-25-2014, 03:56 PM

On my 2006 coach earlier this year I had to replace a Powergear right rear stabilizer leg. I found a new one on line clear across this country and had them ship it to me. Total cost was $753.00 and I installed it myself. Now if I can install it anyone can. I thought this was expensive!

Fast forward to last week when I was talking to a owner who had the same coach as I do. He said his coach had the very same stabilizer jack to go bad and it was on back order at his dealer for the last 13 weeks! He was full timing and has been going without stabilizers for that long. He indicated he was glad he bought a extended policy for repairs because the jack was going to cost him $1400 and labor was going to be $1800!!!! His insurance was going to pay everything but $1500 of it, and he was HAPPY.

I must be totally out of touch with reality.

**JohnRR** · 10-25-2014, 08:36 PM

Something just does not sound right with that cost.

firedoc · 10-25-2014, 09:19 PM

Just ordered a front Atwood leveleg jack (full timing without levelers for 6 months). Cost 1000 including shipping. Since I'm old and fat will have it put in. Quote from local RVS repair spot - 1 hour.

**JohnRR** · 10-25-2014, 09:53 PM

Just for information there are a lot of working parts inside the leveler

Roosters 67 · 10-25-2014, 10:12 PM

Sorry if i offend anyone, I am the son of a mechanical engineer. I learned righty tighty lefty loosey many years ago.
I applaud those that attack, grasp and tackle their own problems when they are able. I am of course mechanically inclined and repair my stuff, but these days with the internet, a simple google search will garner a whole pile of information on any subject. That simple search will walk you through almost anything, video or printed instructions. Live life and don't be scared, If you can pay inflated prices for repairs you ought to at least try to do it yourself. Its only cost a little bit more after you screw with it. If ya fix it yourself, there is no better felling and pride.

Good luck my fellow DIYourselfers...

UsualSuspect · 10-25-2014, 10:50 PM

I just had to remove one of mine and replace the shear pin. First off, I would like to thank whomever installed them, Power Gear says to torque the bolts to 45 pounds, Fleetwood torqued them so tight, I had to grab a pipe for more leverage, and had to replace the washers since they elongated when they installed them. Took me 30 minutes to get the jack off and disassembled, 10 minutes to knock the old pin out and install a new one, as well as dig around for some new washers in my bucket of misc nuts, bolts, screws, washers and just about anything else I have no idea where to put it. Getting back on took about 15 minutes. I can troubleshoot and replace just about anything on these jacks now.
If you think the jacks are expensive, wait until you need a shear pin. You can't buy just 1, you have to buy 4 of them for $44.
I also found I have the old style of electric from Power Gear, so I need to get back under there and change out some clamps, clean stuff up, and silicon it to keep the water out.

chboone · 10-26-2014, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnRR

Just for information there are a lot of working parts inside the leveler

Not on Power Gear hydraulic jacks.

Chuck

pcurt23 · 10-27-2014, 07:41 AM

Agree completely. DIY if possible. I chalk up my mistakes to the cost of learning. I just repaired my heat pump by accident. Replacing the capacitors one by one until it worked again. Cost for parts was 77.00. Part of that was a learning cost of 35.00 for the wrong part. It would have cost me at least 200 in labor plus parts for the same job at Cummings but they did not answer the phone so DIY ( but that's another story).

"007" · 10-27-2014, 08:17 AM

Do not see Power Gear on this list but most all others are.

chuckftboy · 10-27-2014, 08:04 PM

My right rear leveler was leaking. Ordered a seal kit from CW ( $68.00 ) remivwe it, installed the seals and reinstalled it. Took more time to get it off the coach. than to repair it.
If they are leaking and hydrolic a rebuild is cheap.

Blaster · 10-27-2014, 08:36 PM

If my electric levelers quit, will try to check them my self. If its not working and its getting power to it, it is time to see what it is made of.

UsualSuspect · 10-27-2014, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blaster

If my electric levelers quit, will try to check them my self. If its not working and its getting power to it, it is time to see what it is made of.

It is probably a Power Gear if it is electric, doubt it is an Atwood. There is a long running thread in the Fleetwood Owners Forum on them. It is lengthy, but has a lot of information in it.

wa8yxm · 10-28-2014, 06:51 AM

I too am getting ready to replace a jack.. now let me tell you some of the factors:

The jacks go on before the fuel tank so if it's a REAR jack they have to drop the fuel tank to get at the nut.. i figured out how to do it without dropping the tank, but I'm going to cut a hole in a compartment inorder to do it (then I'll patch the hole with a pre-existing patch I have handy)

Front jacks you can get at both bolt and nut easily.

But that's the major difference, most of that labor cost is dropping the fuel tank and replacing it. even though mine is a rear jack, that is not the path I will follow.

**JohnRR** · 10-28-2014, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

I too am getting ready to replace a jack.. now let me tell you some of the factors:

The jacks go on before the fuel tank so if it's a REAR jack they have to drop the fuel tank to get at the nut.. i figured out how to do it without dropping the tank, but I'm going to cut a hole in a compartment inorder to do it (then I'll patch the hole with a pre-existing patch I have handy)

Front jacks you can get at both bolt and nut easily.

But that's the major difference, most of that labor cost is dropping the fuel tank and replacing it. even though mine is a rear jack, that is not the path I will follow.

Any way to have a handle of suitable length welded to a box end wrench and slide that down the inside of the frame rail and fuel tank to hold the nut?