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Old 12-08-2018, 07:13 PM   #1
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Schwintek Slide Vertical Retiming

It appears that the slide on one side has jumped a few teeth, so now there is a gap at the bottom when closed. Has anyone been able to fix this other than using the procedure shown in the video labeled Gear Rack retiming shown here: https://www.lci1.com/support-in-wall%C2%AE-slide-out


Any clue as to what might have caused this? No debris is visible on the track. It seems like there should be an easier way to disengage one of the gears, adjust the slide position and reengage the gear.
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:22 PM   #2
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Yes I once have had the two ends of a slide using LCI Swintek get out of perfect alignment due to an item getting caught between one end and the wall. After clearing the obstruction, I was able to open and close a few times each time holding the operating button 5 seconds after motion on the side that hit first had stopped. I was of about 2" and it took about 3 operating cycles to get it back right again. Do this with your engine running to maximize voltage to the slide controllers and motors.

So far as other causes, if something on the floor gets under the slide and gets caught in one of the floor rollers on one end or the other, it can also interfere with equal movement on both ends of a slide. Finally if the rotation counter in one motor or the other does not count shaft rotations perfectly it can cause the controller to think one side has moved less than it really has and this can get things off.
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Old 12-09-2018, 12:46 AM   #3
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Angry

Unfortunately that only works (and we have done it) for lateral misalignment. However, it does not work for vertical misalignment. LCI wants you to completely remove the mechanism including the tracks, realign on a bench and reinstall. Major PITA.
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:03 AM   #4
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Do you have the original Schwintek slide mechanism with the rail with slots or has it been upgraded to the rail with the teeth on it? Do you have a counter top that protrudes into the center isle?

If you have the countertop that protrudes out from the main countertop that can cause it because the center of balance of the slide tips downward when the slide gets to the tipping point near the end of the retract motion. This will cause a loud popping noise and force the bottom of the slide outward while the top is still moving. The popping noise is the gears being forced to skip slots in the rail due to the misalignment caused by the tipping of the slide.

Ours had a roller installed in the protruding section by the factory to stop this. Excess weight in the slide compartments could also cause it as well as above mentioned obstruction

The new Power gear slide mechanism with a roller if your cabinet needs it solves this problem. WGO has been fixing these under their goodwill warranty at little or no charge to the consumer, but each case will be evaluated to see if it is the above mentioned cause or user caused failure.
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgelesley View Post
Do you have the original Schwintek slide mechanism with the rail with slots or has it been upgraded to the rail with the teeth on it? Do you have a counter top that protrudes into the center isle?

If you have the countertop that protrudes out from the main countertop that can cause it because the center of balance of the slide tips downward when the slide gets to the tipping point near the end of the retract motion. This will cause a loud popping noise and force the bottom of the slide outward while the top is still moving. The popping noise is the gears being forced to skip slots in the rail due to the misalignment caused by the tipping of the slide.

Ours had a roller installed in the protruding section by the factory to stop this. Excess weight in the slide compartments could also cause it as well as above mentioned obstruction

The new Power gear slide mechanism with a roller if your cabinet needs it solves this problem. WGO has been fixing these under their goodwill warranty at little or no charge to the consumer, but each case will be evaluated to see if it is the above mentioned cause or user caused failure.

I would make an appointment to have the slide upgraded at the factory in Forest City as soon as possible. I wouldn't take it to a dealer. The factory has done considerably more upgrades with much better results.

As mentioned this is done on a case by case basis. The longer you wait the less likely it will be repaired/replaced as a Good Will gesture. We had our 2013 Adventurer in for the slide upgrade the week of Thanksgiving. It had been repaired 2 times within the 1 year warranty period, and totally replaced in 2016, including adding a roller under the kitchen island.

With 35,000 miles on the odometer it failed a 4th time. This time the mechanism was replaced with the Power Gear "upgrade". It took a day and a half to complete the job. We stayed at the service center with an electric hookup. The coach went in at 7:00 am Monday and was returned at 3:00 so we could stay in it over night. It went back in the following morning and was completed and returned around noon.

They did give some discount in the form of less labor and reduced parts cost, but the bill was still slightly over $1,800.00.
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Old 12-10-2018, 10:48 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Hikerdogs View Post
I would make an appointment to have the slide upgraded at the factory in Forest City as soon as possible. I wouldn't take it to a dealer. The factory has done considerably more upgrades with much better results.

As mentioned this is done on a case by case basis. The longer you wait the less likely it will be repaired/replaced as a Good Will gesture. We had our 2013 Adventurer in for the slide upgrade the week of Thanksgiving. It had been repaired 2 times within the 1 year warranty period, and totally replaced in 2016, including adding a roller under the kitchen island.

With 35,000 miles on the odometer it failed a 4th time. This time the mechanism was replaced with the Power Gear "upgrade". It took a day and a half to complete the job. We stayed at the service center with an electric hookup. The coach went in at 7:00 am Monday and was returned at 3:00 so we could stay in it over night. It went back in the following morning and was completed and returned around noon.

They did give some discount in the form of less labor and reduced parts cost, but the bill was still slightly over $1,800.00.
I completely agree with above. The problem is not going to get better. We had two dealer installed fixes with different dealers, both failed after just a few cycles. Take it to the factory where it will be done correctly. Ours has been cycled over 100 times since with out issue.
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Old 12-11-2018, 07:43 AM   #7
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Not sure if this is what is happening to yours, but...


We had a problem with ours that I didn't even know was a problem. We have a full wall slide in a 32" Quantum using the tripletrac system. When it would close, the last few inches I would see bottom stop and the top "rock" inwards and down just a tad. Then when running out, it would pull the motors down a bit and the top would go up the tad and then the bottom would catch up and everything was great. My thought was that it was a dip at the end of retraction that acted as a stop that helped hold in the slide. When we went to the factory service center, Jim readjusted the roller plates and the plates were about 1/4 to 1/2 inches off and the rollers were coming off of the end. This has made the slide operate perfectly.
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Old 12-11-2018, 10:10 AM   #8
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I'll have to look at that. I had already found the rollers coming off on the small slide, but never had the alignment problem - perhaps because it is a small slide. It would be great if that was the problem on the big slide. Thank you!
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