Community Forums

Bogie71 · 10-10-2021, 06:23 AM

Posted this here because I am looking for a Class A, but maybe is more of a general chat question? Not sure.

I've had a small Class C for a few years and we just sold the house and selling the Class C to switch over to fulltiming in a Class A. I thought selling the house and downsizing would be the hard part.

Our plan is to spend enough to get a newer used RV (2016-2019) and keep enough money for an emergency fund for all the inevitable stuff I read about happening here.

I have been looking at DP in the 33-37' range as I wanted something smaller since I have never driven one before and I read the post about horror stories of trying to fill up a large gas RV (along with getting F53 maintenance, as I found the same problem getting anyone to service an E350 motorhome, no Ford dealer will touch it).

I'd like a Tiffin Allegro RED 340 33AA, but finding one in my price range is a unicorn. They are there, but someone beats me to getting a deposit on it every time.

Also been looking at the Fleetwood Pace Arrows. They seem pretty nice. Was also looking at Winnebago's but I read that they have a lot of issues now (roof and other quality issues) and got scared off if them.

I like the idea of the gas RV as it opens up a lot more variety and I can even buy a brand new one for the price of the used DP's I am looking at, but I really don't want anything built in the past year or two.

Also spending over 100k with a private seller scares the crap out of me. Any good advice on not getting ripped off? I've been reading that private sellers want a deposit (non-refundable).

If possible I will try to arrange something with an inspector if I can when I finally find one that is available. I figure spending a couple hundred dollars and juggling a bunch of schedules is worth it for such an investment, so that seems like a no-brainer.

Domo · 10-10-2021, 10:01 AM

There should be no horror stories about fueling - those stories are mostly about poor decisions regarding where you get fuel and if you can get in and out. It's okay - we've all had some trouble sometimes even when we were kids on our bikes and had to push backwards out of a narrow alley.

Wise thought about buying and keeping a bit of a nest egg.

We bought our 36' in 2017 after selling our home. At the time it was 9 years old, in good shape and solidly built with no signs of water damage or bad abuse. I think it had around 80K miles and we paid $80K for it.

4 years later and nearly 30K miles later and we have no regrets. We've had some repairs (blown upper radiator hose, failed LevelLegs jacks, new tires, new coach batteries, replaced captains chairs, sofa and jack-knife bed and replaced with a media credenza, TV lift and dual recliner).

What I do like is that it's a pre-DEF cummins motor on a Freightliner chassis. I can get service anywhere. Stuff in coach is just cabinetry and (almost/mostly) residential appliances.

We're handy and can fix/replace any of the appliances, woodwork, plumbing, HVAC without having a steep learning curve - Chassis stuff needs big tools that I'd sold with our house - so we pay the big bucks and let Freightliner take care of the annual chassis work.

As you've mentioned, spending a couple of hundred on an inspector or even to fly and personally inspect a motorhome is small in comparison to the overall cost. I remember we were prepared to fly from Florida to PA and AZ to look at the model we determined was "IT" for us. Coincidentally, just before we booked lights we found one traded in (but not advertised, yet) only a four hour drive from home! We had luck and jumped in the car to see it and have no regrets.

Get the floor plan that suits your lifestyle, follow that with the chassis and features your due diligence uncover.

See you on the road!

BCam · 10-10-2021, 10:23 AM

I just filled up my 35' gasser at Costco, easy peasey. Early Sun morning is relatively uncrowded (mine opens at 6:30a). And if you plan ahead and use Pilot/Flying J or the like, access is good. There's even an app for it:

https://rvingisbeing.com/finding-rv-...sing-this-app/

Fortunately you'll have a larger fuel tank than your Class C so, as long as you don't push it, you'll be able to plan ahead.

HighDesert · 10-10-2021, 11:00 AM

First is the floor plan - regardless of gas or diesel. If you buy a coach but are not happy with floor plan, you’ll really be miserable. Pros of a gasser: cheaper to buy, cheaper to repair, price of fuel almost a trade off now. Cons of a gasser: rougher ride, nosier, more driver fatigue, seats (generally) not as comfortable, and sometimes getting in and out of a service station can be a major motion picture. Ride and handling can be improved , but can run upwards to $10K for a full suspension upgrade (ask me how I know). And, pros of a DP: very quiet ride and comfortable ride, no bouncing or jarring, dash not moving 3 inches up and down over a rough road or expansion joints, better chassis with air suspension vs leaf springs, generally a better fit and finish, and fueling is much easier as you can use truck lanes and can fill from either side. Cons: can be expensive for repairs, some DEF related issues are showing up due to emission requirements.
We had a 2019 Tiffin 32SA since new. Best mpg I ever got was almost 8. Worse was 4 mpg. Our last trip (Or, Ca, Nv, Az, Co, Ut, I’d was just under 3000 miles and I averaged about 5 mpg towing a 2 door Wrangler. We just got a 2017 Tiffin Allegro Red 33AA (35’ long, same as 32SA) and on our first 570 mile trip, got just under 10 mpg. Regardless of whether you decide gas or diesel, I would only consider coaches from Newmar, Tiffin, some Winnebagos and Fleetwood. But first, find a good floor plan, then the rest will fall into place.

astrnmrtom · 10-10-2021, 12:14 PM

We've been on the road a year and a half full timing in a diesel pusher pulling a toad. Had a couple minor close calls in gas stations because someone pulled in and blocked my path or I came in and the turns were tighter than they looked from the road. Patience really helps. A couple times my wife has gotten out to ask people to move with good results. One lady came out of the station with some food, got back in her car in the fuel lane, and started eating like she was in the cafeteria. It was the only lane I could pull through without unhooking. When asked to move by my co-pilot, she did.

Basically, I keep my rig topped off, usually refilling around 3/4 tank. This allows me to pull over for fuel, and to drive right past and station that looks like there'll be an issue. I leave and try the next one. Absolute worst case scenario would be the need to unhook my toad in order to back out of a pickle, but I always play it safe so it's never happened. I won't fuel at a station where I have any doubts. No big deal. There's always truck stops although I only use them as a last resort because the frequently charge almost .50 more a gallon for diesel.

Now, it's important to note, I'm very comfortable driving just a about anything. I drove various trucks, and pulled an assortment of trailered equipment on all kinds of roads and even on small ferries. Maneuvering large vehicles in tight places doesn't bother me. I have a very good idea where I can and can't fit. Others might not be so used to it.

Choosing a rig it tough as is any used vehicle. It's a crap shoot but I've found it's best to look them over and only choose the ones that appear well taken care of. I've had very good luck with all my vehicles - I only buy used - by walking away from ones I have doubts about.

You'll need two skills when owning an RV. Be handy with do-it-yourself repairs, or be good at signing your name on an invoice or check for someone else to do it.

This is my first diesel rig and I felt a little like a fish out of water at first. I've always done my own repairs and service, and learning the diesel was new. I had daily access to a certified diesel mechanic at work, so he could answer my questions and make suggestions - that certainly helped. Plus I did maintain some diesel powered equipment. The biggest difference is cost of regular maintenance. Oil, and filters cost more than a gas rig. 7 gallons of oil vs 8 quarts in my previous gas rig. Air filter about $150, vs $20 before. I replaced a front wheel seal myself and boy, are the wheels, hubs and brake calipers HEAVY on this rig compared to even light truck stuff! No spark plugs to change though. I realized owning a diesel really isn't much different than owning a modern car. The newer the car I got, the less I could do myself beside brakes, plugs, oil and filters. I like the diesel for the torque and the engine in the back - for quieter driving. Nothing wrong with gas rigs though. I liked my last rig too, and it was gas.

As someone who researched things to death and frequently ends up in decision black holes, I feel your pain. We've owned just about everything minus a 5th wheel, and I'll tell you, there's strengths and weaknesses in every design, and the balance shifts between them depending on what you want in a RV.

AZRVR17 · 10-10-2021, 01:35 PM

You might want to consider a 35’ Newmar NewAire. It has more power and a king bed compared to the 33’. It’s a luxury coach so you get nice finishes and good technology. Diesel, in my opinion, is the only way to go.

We had a 33’ NewAire and itwas great ex queen bed and a touch under powered. Storage was excellent and drive extremely well and was easy to maneuver.

Best of luck

Latech · 10-10-2021, 01:45 PM

Why spend so much on a coach?
Buy a top of the line coach , that is 10 -15 years old. You might be suprised to find a few that have low mileage and are in great shape.
Pick something tried and trued Like a TIFFIN or a Monaco.

I see plenty of diesel pushers for $38-$45 K with 80 -100 k on the clock . Thats nothing for a cummins.
Of course you will want to vet the coach real well before you buy. Since you a coach before you know what to look at.
Dont get so caught up keeping up with the joneses that you cant afford to have fun

Latech · 10-10-2021, 01:49 PM

Like this lovely coach well kept .

https://elmira.craigslist.org/rvs/d/...385870960.html

or this here for more cha ching

https://reading.craigslist.org/rvd/d...387792760.html

Latech · 10-10-2021, 02:00 PM

And then there is this...

Kinda high on the price, but it says "I have arrived"

https://altoona.craigslist.org/rvd/d...388624820.html

Point is here, keep an open mind.You will do well.

Bogie71 · 10-10-2021, 05:57 PM

Thanks! The non-refundable deposit part is a bummer, but we are thinking about pulling the trigger on a 2016 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 38k. Love the floorplan, might want to change a few things eventually. Hoping I can find an inspector able to come out and meet me there (I am going to have to fly down to Florida).

If I can't is there anything I need to look for, especially with the engine and trans? I have worked on gas engines before, but I know much less about diesel expect what I learned from watching Bus Grease Monkey videos.

Bogie71 · 10-10-2021, 07:25 PM

..and just like that going to have to pass on it. I don't feel bad saying no before I put any money down, but luckily I researched a bit and found that the Pace Arrow LXE 38k has a very limited towing capacity. With us living in it and towing a car, I think we would quickly be over the GCWR of 33,000.

Lots of things to think about.

Kenrbass · 10-10-2021, 07:46 PM

Save enough for your exit plan to get back into a house if or when the time comes. Someone called it an exit plan and it does make good sense.
I went with an older holiday rambler. Aluminum roof and sides was a big plus for me. I didn't want anything with a rubber roof myself.
Don't buy or put money down without seeing it in person.
New or used, all rv's have issues and need repairs, so save a nest egg for that also.
Walk on the roof.
Inspect the bottom of the slides with them out because lots of them leak and have damage or rotting.
The smell of one that leaked when you walk into one is pretty obvious.
A mechanic shop can do a once over on the running gear.
Have them show you how everything works and that also proves it does work.
Lear how to read date codes on tires.
Don't fall in love with a machine.
Lots of fairly new ones, they owe more than it's worth.
Best of luck to you.

IND2SLC · 10-10-2021, 09:36 PM

Fueling a diesel class a can be easier than gas--just pull through the commercial/tractor-trailer lines. Plenty of room, pumps are fast, and off you go!

If tow capacity is a concern, you may be better off with a diesel, particularly if you venture into hills and mountains much. I drive from Salt Lake City to Park City twice a day, and every single day I see gas motorhomes at 5-10mph struggling to chug up I-80 to Parley's Summit. The smart ones unhook their toad in the chain-up area in the valley, but I can't imagine that's very convenient every time you need to go up a hill.

I've only heard that Pop RV's, a consignment outfit, requires 10% before you see it, but that's fully refundable right away. I've dealt with them before, very professional. They require it to weed out tire-kickers.

Bogie71 · 10-11-2021, 05:09 AM

Thanks you all for the advice! It definitely helps. We'll keep looking and now with these suggestions I know what to look for a little more and will definitely look at some older models too. I've gotten used to fixing some of the standard motorhome things with my current RV so those don't worry me, other than roofs.