Community Forums

darrylb1231 · 12-08-2022, 10:03 PM

Hello All,

I have a 1999 Fleetwood Bounder and my power got cut off where the RV was plugged into. I got it turned back on, but now my shore power does not work. So, none of my 120 outlets work.

I found the shore power box behind the breaker box. It is a sealed closed metal box.

Do I need to open it to hit a reset button?

Jon_C · 12-08-2022, 10:33 PM

If you have a generator, the sealed box is probably a transfer switch, and I doubt it has a reset button inside.

If power was good before, sounds like something is still wrong with the shore power? Do you have a meter and know how to check? Im assuming you have 50 amp service?

If anything would trip in your rig it would be a circuit breaker, check if any are tripped especially the main breaker

Dave_H · 12-09-2022, 08:16 AM

On my previous motorhome, occasionally that transfer switch would get hung up when switching from generator to shore power. A little bang on the box would get it working again. I believe there are springs that switch over the relays which were probably getting weak.

tkscorpio · 12-09-2022, 10:51 AM

If your transfer switch is an IOTA ITS-50R it was recalled years ago. It has started fires in some rigs. Mine stopped working and when I opened it up to inspect it there were 3 wires that overheated and had scorched the inside of the box and one leg disconnected. I replace mine with ESCO auto transfer switch.

Gary RVRoamer · 12-09-2022, 02:20 PM

That "shore power box" is a transfer switch that alternates between shore and generator power. It may have failed. Can you get power if you run the onboard generator? If yes, the transfer switch may be stuck in generator mode, or maybe the shore power side has a loose or damaged wire connection. You didn't say what happened to "lose shore power", but a short in that box would probably do it. Repair or replacement required.

153stars · 12-09-2022, 04:42 PM

Only the outlets ?... Do you have inverter/charger with push button circuit breakers and one for pass through 120v power.
But if you have never inspected and tightened the wire terminals in ATS you should. Plus get rid of recalled unit if it is.

Unplanned Tourist · 12-09-2022, 05:21 PM

As others have said, get your VOM out and start checking. First at the post, then inside your ATS, then at your breaker panel. It just takes one little open circuit to shut you down.

Just be careful, and don't stand in a puddle of water when you are checking the post!

darrylb1231 · 12-12-2022, 10:07 AM

https://photos.app.goo.gl/T18abeYrfwFjCQ5f9

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer

That "shore power box" is a transfer switch that alternates between shore and generator power. It may have failed. Can you get power if you run the onboard generator? If yes, the transfer switch may be stuck in generator mode, or maybe the shore power side has a loose or damaged wire connection. You didn't say what happened to "lose shore power", but a short in that box would probably do it. Repair or replacement required.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PCQZvS3T2EZbHHgL9

I left the RV for a few days and when I got back the power got cut off because the bill was not paid. I got the power back on and lost 120v power to the RV when I plug up from the outside source.

My generator runs, but I never had 120 to my outlets since I bought this RV.

I don't get any power going into this box. The wires coming into the box come do not look like they go into the breaker box. Is there somewhere else I should check.

Since my generator never gave me 120v ac in the RV, could it be because of this power box?

bigb56 · 12-12-2022, 10:24 AM

If you don't measure 120 volts between the shore line and the shore neutral terminals while plugged in you don't have shore power, start there. If you do measure 120V between shore line and shore neutral but not at load line and load neutral there is a problem with the switch. If this is the case you can unplug from shore power and splice the shore line to the load line and the shore neutral to the load neutral and this will get you going till you can get a new transfer switch. (you won't get generator power) Be sure to unplug from shore power before doing splicing

bigb56 · 12-12-2022, 12:10 PM

Looking at the pics you linked I now see that the transfer switch is only rated at 13 and it is called a transfer relay delay, anyone know what that's all about? How big is your generator? What size are the wires inside the switch?

Jon_C · 12-12-2022, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigb56

Looking at the pics you linked I now see that the transfer switch is only rated at 13 and it is called a transfer relay delay, anyone know what that's all about? How big is your generator? What size are the wires inside the switch?

The delay is probably allowing the gen to warm up before it switches load to it.

Hard to believe the switch is only good for 13 amps, it would be very easy to overload it and burn the contacts which is my guess as to one of the problems

twinboat · 12-13-2022, 10:45 AM

That transfer switch is probably only for the rear A/C, coming from a 5500 watt generators 15 amp breaker.

They come with 30 and 15 amp breakers.

Need to look for another transfer switch rated for 30 amps.