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07-18-2021, 06:42 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 2
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Shurflo Water pump problem
Shurflo water pump 2088-422-175 on a 2011 Winnebago Journey cycles when all faucets are closed and system is on. Checked all connections and found no leaks. When pump is turned on it struggles to get the system under pressure as though all the water drained from the lines. I will replace the pump but is there more that I need to consider?
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07-18-2021, 06:53 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,569
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It's never a bad idea to have a spare pump on hand so replacing is going to tell you if it's the pump or not.
I would turn one of the valves by the pump and see if water is pumped at a sufficient level.
Double check that your ext. shower and indoor shower have actually been turned off at the faucet and not just at the shower head.
You could also pull the pump and rig up hoses to the input/output and see if it works correctly and doesn't cycle.
Good luck
__________________
1996 Tioga Class C
2007 Monaco Diplomat 40 PDQ
TOAD 2012 Cadillac SRX 4
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07-18-2021, 07:45 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Titusville, FL
Posts: 5,160
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It could be as simple as trash in the pump's internal check valve. Happens often. Especially if the pump's filter screen is not cleared regularly.
__________________
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.
2023 Grand Design 2600RB, 2022 F-350 King Ranch tow vehicle, Titusville, FL when not on the road
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07-18-2021, 10:42 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hohenwald48
It could be as simple as trash in the pump's internal check valve. Happens often. Especially if the pump's filter screen is not cleared regularly.
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This^^.
Pump recycling when all faucets are OFF and no external leaks are found, is usually from two high possibility failures.
First, the check valve in the pump itself, as mentioned by hohenwald48. That valve is supposed to hold water, that has been pressurized by the pump into the system, from back flowing into the pump and into the fresh tank once the pump stops.
Second, the diverter valve in the wet bay that shunts incoming water from a city spigot into the tank or through the system could be leaking. If so, when the pump is ON and pressurizing the system, that valve lets the pressurized water through and into the tank, resulting in the re-circulation of water in the closed system. The leak may be small enough that it's not noticed when the pump is running and a faucet is open, but as soon as the faucet is closed, the water continues to flow into the tank, pressure drops in the system, and the pump cycles back ON.
A Third but less likely fault could be with the pressure switch on the pump being set too high, or being faulty. However, that would not account for the loss of water in the lines that you describe when the pump is first turned ON.
The outside shower has nothing to do with loss of water pressure and the pump recycling, unless water is actually flowing out of the shower head, in which case you'd notice it, or your water heater is empty and the pump is trying to refill it.
Do not replace your pump unless you troubleshoot the above possibilities, unless you just want a new pump.
__________________
Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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07-18-2021, 11:23 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,689
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In addition to those posted above
City Water Inlet check valve ----with pump running make sure that water is not coming out the hose connection
Water Heater T&P Relief Valve....weeping
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Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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07-18-2021, 11:47 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake County, IL
Posts: 1,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljwt330
This^^.
Pump recycling when all faucets are OFF and no external leaks are found, is usually from two high possibility failures.
First, the check valve in the pump itself, as mentioned by hohenwald48. That valve is supposed to hold water, that has been pressurized by the pump into the system, from back flowing into the pump and into the fresh tank once the pump stops.
Second, the diverter valve in the wet bay that shunts incoming water from a city spigot into the tank or through the system could be leaking. If so, when the pump is ON and pressurizing the system, that valve lets the pressurized water through and into the tank, resulting in the re-circulation of water in the closed system. The leak may be small enough that it's not noticed when the pump is running and a faucet is open, but as soon as the faucet is closed, the water continues to flow into the tank, pressure drops in the system, and the pump cycles back ON.
A Third but less likely fault could be with the pressure switch on the pump being set too high, or being faulty. However, that would not account for the loss of water in the lines that you describe when the pump is first turned ON.
The outside shower has nothing to do with loss of water pressure and the pump recycling, unless water is actually flowing out of the shower head, in which case you'd notice it, or your water heater is empty and the pump is trying to refill it.
Do not replace your pump unless you troubleshoot the above possibilities, unless you just want a new pump.
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Most of these pumps do not have a motor in them. Rather, they use a large solenoid to move the center of a rubber diaphragm (with a very complex shape) back and forth. A leaking diaphragm is another likely failure mode.
There are rubber, internal parts to be checked before replacing the pump. Any one of them may be cracked and leaking. I once had the pump freeze, and quit working. I took it apart, and found that the diaphragm had become unseated. I re-seated it, and the pump worked fine for many years after that.
If you do find bad rubber parts, there are rather inexpensive repair kits available for most pumps.
Joel
__________________
Retired electronics engineer. Avid paddler & birder.
2011 Silverado 2500HD, diesel, 4x4,crew cab, 8' bed
Palomino Puma 253FBS (27' 5er) & '94 19' Class B
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07-18-2021, 12:03 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Titusville, FL
Posts: 5,160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Birder
Most of these pumps do not have a motor in them. Rather, they use a large solenoid to move the center of a rubber diaphragm (with a very complex shape) back and forth. A leaking diaphragm is another likely failure mode.
There are rubber, internal parts to be checked before replacing the pump. Any one of them may be cracked and leaking. I once had the pump freeze, and quit working. I took it apart, and found that the diaphragm had become unseated. I re-seated it, and the pump worked fine for many years after that.
If you do find bad rubber parts, there are rather inexpensive repair kits available for most pumps.
Joel
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I have never seen an RV water pump that is not motor driven. Many have cams that operate a diaphragm or 3 valve pump but all I've seen are motor driven. Can you provide any model info for the solenoid driven pumps? I might want to consider that the next time I need to replace a pump.
__________________
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.
2023 Grand Design 2600RB, 2022 F-350 King Ranch tow vehicle, Titusville, FL when not on the road
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07-18-2021, 12:24 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hohenwald48
I have never seen an RV water pump that is not motor driven. Many have cams that operate a diaphragm or 3 valve pump but all I've seen are motor driven. Can you provide any model info for the solenoid driven pumps? I might want to consider that the next time I need to replace a pump.
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I think he meant "motor in them" like with an impeller, not a motor that activates a diaphragm.
Though he makes a valid point about the diaphragm as a point of failure, it does not fit the symptoms of the OP's system. A bad diaphragm would cause poor recovery of pressure, but would not allow a pressure drop in the system once the pressure was reached, without a bad check valve.
__________________
Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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07-18-2021, 12:49 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake County, IL
Posts: 1,584
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I stand corrected about the motor.
Leaking check valves could produce the symptoms described. I provided the information for others who might be reading the thread.
My main point, was that these pumps rarely need to be replaced. All of the common failure modes can be easily repaired for a lot less money than buying a new pump.
Joel
__________________
Retired electronics engineer. Avid paddler & birder.
2011 Silverado 2500HD, diesel, 4x4,crew cab, 8' bed
Palomino Puma 253FBS (27' 5er) & '94 19' Class B
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07-18-2021, 01:07 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 5,126
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I've owned 23 and 20 year old Sureflo water pumps and although I've seen nearly every symptom mentioned on the various RV'ing forums, I've never had to replace either pump.
What I have had to do to the older pump is take it apart carefully, scrub off the mineral deposits, slather the cloverleaf rubber gasket with Vaseline, and put it back together. All to stop a drip-drip-drip it had developed right at the pump housing. The 20 yo pump hasn't been a problem, even after it ran dry all night one time.
These RV pumps are very hardy pumps.
So with that in mind, my guess is that the OP has a leaking City/Tank valve as mentioned earlier. Could be just something caught in the valve so maybe blowing it out with air would dislodge it enough that it'll pass later, or be washed out the drain. That worked for me one time.
I have a shower head Off/On valve that I installed at the shower head, and as long as I remember to shut off both that valve and the single handle valve, all is well. But sometimes I forget to do that and leave the single handle valve on...which causes two issues.
One is at the sink when I try to do dishes, often I'll only get warm water as the hot and cold mix there in the shower valve before making it to the kitchen.
The other issue is if I'm on pump only and I've left that shower valve on, the pump will run occasionally.
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