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11-20-2020, 10:24 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Clovis NM
Posts: 4,389
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I'm glad someone chimed in with the knowledge needed.
__________________
2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 35'with 5 Star Tuner. 3 200 Amp Lithium batteries and 2000 watt PSW inverter/charger. 2013 Elantra on a Master Tow dolly.
Retired USAF
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11-20-2020, 01:31 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt46
Your pump is at the back of the passenger-side duellies. The hyd tank is there as well. You'll also find the relay held to the pump housing via a large screw clamp. A couple of fuses in weather protected rubber housings will be found above the manifold where the hydraulic lines attach. Your system is the 200 series. With all that said, it is based on how my 97 Adventurer 37rw is set-up. I've replaced my pump, tank, motor assembly and the label on the unit says AP 29281 S/N 42191.
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Thank you for that. The fuses are still intact.
Any chance this is wired with the step and door open/close sensor? Someone else told me it might be. When I changed my step I got rid of the door sensor.
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11-21-2020, 03:05 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 797
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No, it shouldn't be but it's a 97 and who knows what mods previous owners may have done. For sure it is tied into your braking system. The parking brake pedal must be engaged for anything to work.
__________________
Peter
1997 F53 Adventurer 37rw
IAFF L-792 (Retired)
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11-22-2020, 08:06 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt46
No, it shouldn't be but it's a 97 and who knows what mods previous owners may have done. For sure it is tied into your braking system. The parking brake pedal must be engaged for anything to work.
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Control panel still works and I can hear the relay...motor just not starting.
Unfortunately that is correct about the step. I reconnected that door wire to simulate closure and it still didn't work.
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11-22-2020, 09:16 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 797
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I suggest you check/clean the Ground Lug and the ground wires attached to it. It gets pretty cruddy and might not be making a good connection. Send me an email address and I'll send you some pictures of the various components we are talking about.
__________________
Peter
1997 F53 Adventurer 37rw
IAFF L-792 (Retired)
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11-22-2020, 12:27 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: New Hudson, Michigan
Posts: 207
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Did you remove the battery leads or change the battery when you did the steps when you lose battery power you must reset the control box remove the panel front and unplug the connector and count to 10 replug and put the panel back on and you should be good to go.
__________________
Cathy and Gordie Connelly FMCA # F461058
2006 Winnebago Sightseer 29 R
2017 Buick Envision 4 down
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11-22-2020, 12:33 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordiegaffer
Did you remove the battery leads or change the battery when you did the steps when you lose battery power you must reset the control box remove the panel front and unplug the connector and count to 10 replug and put the panel back on and you should be good to go.
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Well I have removed all the batteries before and it all worked, but I'll give that a shot. Thanks
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12-06-2020, 09:23 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 257
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Just an update (and to let everyone know that I will post again when fixed):
I haven't had time to troubleshoot it myself yet, but I have repair guy coming tomorrow to help.
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12-07-2020, 12:45 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 257
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So we applied power directly to the pump (from advice of azpete). It ran and then activated the slide and jacks. Repair guy thinks it's a bad solenoid.
Not sure how much went wrong with the electrical system because while troubleshooting all of this, the new step motor burnt out. Also have to replace fuel pump on generator which was another coincidence that it stopped working at the same time as the old step.
We'll re-connect everything one-by-one and go from there...
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12-07-2020, 07:05 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,652
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Ask yourself, "What has changed since the HWH motor last ran?" Since you hear the HWH solenoid click, remove, clean and replace ground wire connections. The HWH system requires high-quality 12V power to work properly. Over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground.
HWH FAQ page
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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12-08-2020, 06:34 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN
Ask yourself, "What has changed since the HWH motor last ran?" Since you hear the HWH solenoid click, remove, clean and replace ground wire connections. The HWH system requires high-quality 12V power to work properly. Over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground.
HWH FAQ page
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Thanks we'll be reconnecting everything one step at a time to ensure that.
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12-21-2020, 07:19 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 257
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Been a while since I posted, and sadly, little progress. We used a starter solenoid to replace the pump relay. I'm getting power. The next step in troubleshooting tells me it's the 8600 wire.
Unfortunately, I'm also no longer hearing a click when I hit the switches. However, the pump still does run if I apply power directly.
Using a starter solenoid was based on the advice of the mechanic who was helping last time. I went ahead and ordered the part specified by HWH to see if that makes a difference.
Interestingly, when I jumped the wrong position of the solenoid while testing, the fuse that burnt out in the Ford chassis fusebox was labelled as being for the radio (5 amp).
The image is from email I sent to my mechanic. I'll also as azpete.
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12-23-2020, 02:03 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 257
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Had some success today. I put the old relay back in. Now the pump runs the whole time the control panel is on, but at least I am back to being able to control everything from the driver's seat. I'll just have to be careful not to leave the pump on too long.
This was basically the opposite case of before reconnecting all the step controls
but
I have a new relay coming and it will try it out, but if a new control board is what I really need, I probably won't go that route as long as this works.
If the current set-up stops working, I'd just try this:
https://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguid...veling-system/
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