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Old 01-06-2017, 11:03 AM   #29
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Folks have mentioned square feet, and cubic feet to determine what heat is needed. What really needs to be done is a heat loss calculation. Home HVAC professionals would have you believe that it's as complicated as say, putting a man on the moon.

In reality, it's easy. The BTU/hr required to heat a room is the square feet of surface area divided by the R value times the delta temperature. That is typically multiplied by an air exchange factor. That's it.

So, my motorhome (31') has about 1100 square feet of floor, ceiling and walls (with the slides out). I approximate the R-value as an average of 4 (say 5 in walls, and 1 in windows). On a 30 day I need 1100*40/4 = 11,00 BTU/hr to overcome that heat loss to reach 70 (40 delta), simple.

I could break it down by separate areas, like for the windows by measuring them, but 11,000 is a good ballpark number. Suggests two 5000 BTU/hr electric heaters won't quite cut it. Especially if you account for some air infiltration. That agrees nicely with what most folks are reporting.

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Old 01-06-2017, 07:42 PM   #30
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I was hoping that my problem had some solutions and you guys came through again! Thanks alot for your responses. I am going to look into some of the recommended Reflectix for the windows, closing off the front with some sort of insulating blanket and I am especially interested in the catalytic heater. Not so hot on the snow suit, although I appreciate your response. Again, thanks all, now I have some work to do...
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Old 01-06-2017, 08:44 PM   #31
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Do some research on how much water vapor a catalytic heater puts out because humidity control is as important as heat production.
'04 Newmar Mountain Aire 4016
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:57 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by classAguy View Post
I have a 36' Bounder (2009) and have been attempting to keep it warm by plugging in a space heater. I have tried 3 space heaters, the last one from Camping World that says it heats up to a 600 sq ft space. The outside temp here is now 21 degrees, the coach got up to 37 degrees with the heater on full blast.

Any thoughts would be helpful. thanks...

Keeping the coach warm is one thing, GETTING it warm is a completely different thing.
Ted 'n' Laurie, plus Jackson (aka Deputy Dog, the Parson Russell Terrier 'fur kid') and, Rylie (who crossed the Rainbow Bridge June 14, 2012).
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Old 01-07-2017, 01:32 PM   #33
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You are absolutely correct in regards to the heat output of my heater @ 5100 btu . Got me thinking this morning, why does it SEEM to put out more heat and keep temp in my coach warmer than it theoretically should? What could possibly be different with my coach from others? Came to me after reading your last post in regards to heat loss, and it clicked...in my terra the basement is open side to side, from front to back,wet bay is directly behind rear wheels on drivers side and vacuflush on pass side with grey and black tanks mounted in between,fresh tanks in between rear wheels. 2 years ago in anticipation of cold weather travel, I insulated the entire basement floor, including all rotocast cargo holds and under side of floor(ceiling of cargo holds) with 1/2" eco-fiber padding,Same stuff that is used under all auto carpets. After this was done I had to reduce the heat going into the basement as it was getting too hot,and staying hot.I have since eliminated the heat duct going to the basement,using only a small electric heater in the vacuum generator bay, which does not have eco-fiber in it,but a armoflex type insulation,glued to inside of bay, with removable bottom for washing. I replaced The cab carpet, added eco-fiber padding and dyno-mat under it. Now, getting back to your heat loss comment, could all this insulation under the floor make that much difference? Like I stated earlier,After running the propane furnace to heat the coach and it's contents, this heater does a very good job.Yea, doing the whole basement was a lot of work,not to mention $150.00 for the pad,done originally just to keep tanks warm, and to retain heat, but looks like this has also helped keep the inside of coach warmer also. On a side note,all mcd shades are down,slides out, outside temp approx 32 degrees. Floor of coach which is vinyl is noticeably warmer than it was before the basement was insulated.

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Old 01-07-2017, 06:20 PM   #34
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Of all the post I've read about rv heating, I have not run accross people talking about heat strips in the rooftop ac's. Both ac's in our '94 Allegro Bus have electric heat strips. I don't know how many watts they are but they kept us plenty warm at the Albuquerque balloon fiesta where the overnight temps were around the freezing mark. I'm not sure if they would cut it in 21 degree temps. Are heating elements in rooftop ac's not common on later models, and if not, why?
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ace, heat, heater

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