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Old 01-07-2018, 05:04 PM   #15
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Don't try this at home!

Don't worry about lubrication, the oil these days clings like p**p to a blanket.
Case in point, we had a mechanic start a truck and build the air pressure up (1 to 1 1/2 minutes) after another mechanic had drained the oil out for an oil change.
After running it that long with NO oil pressure, we pulled the oil pan and changed the bearings, even though there was hardly any damage. Only a couple of shiny spots.
Modern oil is wonderful stuff! This was not syn. oil, just good of dino 15W40 Rotella.
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Old 01-07-2018, 05:30 PM   #16
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When it’s been around or below zero for awhile I do plug in the heater three or four hours earlier, if not overnight, just to be easier on things and start off with a bit warmer fluid. It will start without it, but just my way of being easier. When below 25 degrees or so I always turn on the key till the indicator goes off, turn off the key, then do it again. Even below zero it fires right up. Once running I follow the manual about idling and driving it easy at first.
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Old 01-07-2018, 06:29 PM   #17
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Someone mentioned earlier that the glow plugs assist in starting......I’m pretty sure these engines do not have glow plugs.

My manual says the wait to start light is the intake heater, so I’m assuming that means that it heats the air to assist in the starting.
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Old 01-07-2018, 06:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo View Post
do you not have a "Wait to start" dash light to tell you when it's ok to start the engine ? just turn the key and watch the dash light works for us !

I've started ours in the tens without any assistance from the engine heater or aqua hot... the glow plugs WILL do it for you, but obviously if you preheat by plugging in the engine block heater or running the aqua hot, it will start OUT warmer

good luck...

and, oh yeah, when you start it, just drive off easy and that's the best way to warm everything up - less idling - better for your rv and your neighbors
Modern diesels don't have glow plugs, they have a heater grid in the intake, which is why you don't use starting fluid in them
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:07 PM   #19
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Modern diesels don't have glow plugs, they have a heater grid in the intake, which is why you don't use starting fluid in them
Modern diesel generator engines, and I'm sure other diesel engines, still use glow plugs.
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:47 PM   #20
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Starting a Cold-Soaked Cummings ISL 400

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who cares .........everyone knows what the OP was asking ......

Clessie Cummins, the guy who founded the company, might care a little.

Would you be OK with us calling you Palehearse?
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:56 PM   #21
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The OP engine doesn't have glow plugs...it's a air intake grid type heater.

There's some light duty engines that may still use them, like a pick-up, but no big bore on highway engine does.

But no engine deserves death by either.


@ -4, The OP probably has more to worry about gelled diesel fuel than engine oil
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:08 PM   #22
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So there have been a few threads this week on ether / starting fluid in modern diesels with grid heaters.

I get the issue.

Is there another way on these engines to quickly isolate a lack of fuel problem?
Like...spray in a small amount of diesel fluid into the intake? Or would that mess with the heaters as well as they normally never see fuel?

Just putting the info into brain cells for a future possible need.
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:38 PM   #23
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Is there another way on these engines to quickly isolate a lack of fuel problem?
Like...spray in a small amount of diesel fluid into the intake? Or would that mess with the heaters as well as they normally never see fuel?
Read the manual. Mine says not to use starting spray. Mine says it will crank the engine for thirty seconds and then stop if the engine hasn't started.

My guess is that the high pressure fuel pumps will get fuel to the engine for starting even if it has been a long time since the engine was started. If the fuel pump needs to be primed, the procedure should be in the owner's manual.
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:29 PM   #24
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As someone mentioned already you may have issues with gelling of your diesel if your fuel is from summertime it's going to be a very legitimate issue you need to treat your diesel before you try and start it there are many products available at Walmart personally on our semi I use diesel Kleen in the white bottle and if you are actually taking a trip somewhere you need to make sure the places you are fueling are using winter diesel which is good for - 20 any of the managers should be able to answer the question as to whether or not they are using winter diesel and although idling excessively isnt recommended I would certainly let it run for a while before I tried to drive it to get the anti gel fluid through the entire fuel system because the area that they gel is in the fuel filter and it will leave you on the side of the road
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:32 PM   #25
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Familiar with the Normal Starting procedure...the question was more about diagnosis tips and tricks for when things don't go according to plan. ie: how to isolate "it's not getting any fuel to the cylinders".

crack a fuel injector line to check for pressure?
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:35 PM   #26
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Familiar with the Normal Starting procedure...the question was more about diagnosis tips and tricks for when things don't go according to plan. ie: how to isolate "it's not getting any fuel to the cylinders".

crack a fuel injector line to check for pressure?
Sounds like a perfect question for Google
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:38 PM   #27
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Sounds like a perfect question for Google
Depending how new your engine is some of the fuel system components can be under 30,000 psi so no cracking a line would not be a good idea
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:51 PM   #28
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Yeah, at 30K PSI, you need a mechanic unless you know exactly what you are doing. Very high pressures and tiny little tolerances, expensive seals and even more expensive plastic parts. This is not something I'm gonna go messing with, but you can do what you like to your rig and let us know how it goes.
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