Steering Pulling To Right

[leadman]

A tire with the radial belts separating from the casing can happen to anybody. This is the major cause of a vehicle pulling in one direction even if the air pressure is maintained. These radial belts are what comprise the "alligators" seen along roads. Ever hear a semi go by you with a consistent slapping sound from the tires? This is the start of a failure.
As I stated earlier I have seen many tires that were brand new with the radial belts off slightly. This is from 17 years of experience from our tire shop attached to our repair shop.

[rccrafters69]

I fought this on our 41 foot freightliner unit. Multiple trips locally for alignment and finally 2 trips to freightliner service. On the 2nd visit the techs finally said they sometimes have to put caster above specs to address pulling right. Mine was minor but really irritating. Solved the problem

[Scooter]

Wild, wild guess is that there are splines under the steering wheel hub/cover that got out of whack somehow. Don't know how to adjust and don't know much....at all.

[Unplanned Tourist]

Originally Posted by rccrafters69

On the 2nd visit the techs finally said they sometimes have to put caster above specs to address pulling right. Mine was minor but really irritating. Solved the problem

Adding castor will NOT solve the problem.

It only masks the problem.

Happy Glamping.

[alank]

Originally Posted by Unplanned

Adding castor will NOT solve the problem.

It only masks the problem.
Happy Glamping.

Sorry, but I”ll have to disagree. Freightliner caster specs make the coach steering pull to the left to off set the pull of the crown of the road and solves the problem. Adding caster to the right place or reducing caster in the right place will provide the same results. It doesn’t really matter if the setting is outside factory recommended specs. I run my caster angles at about one half of factory minimum spec to get the amount of “trail” I want. Have done this on the last four coach chassis with great results.
Freightliner is really just passing down truck specs for use on a motor coach chassis.

What the OP didn’t tell us is if the coach originally drove fine, then started pulling to the right, or possibly it has always pulled to the right. I would be looking at two different things, depending on the answer to that.

[Cloud Dancer]

"Back in the day", I bought a large repair shop at 6836 Gateway East in El Paso, TX (industrial district across I-10 from Cielo Vista Mall). It did a lot of truck repairs and had 5 large bays, and the center one had complete Bear front end alignment equipment permantly installed. So, I went to Bear alignment school.
I learned that "factory specs" were for having a standard STARTING POINT. If the driver had to hold constant steering wheel pressure due to the vehicle wanting to self steer to one side or the other, it was standard procedure to tweak the factory specs in order to correct the problem.
Another thing: I recently drove my wife's fairly new Cadillac, and noticed it had a slight tendency to self-steer to the left. I checked the tire air pressure monitor, and the left front tire was 6 psi LOW. I aired it up, and it fixed the problem. I also took it into the dealership so they could fix the slow leak in the Michelin tire.

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by Cloud Dancer

I learned that "factory specs" were for having a standard STARTING POINT. If the driver had to hold constant steering wheel pressure due to the vehicle wanting to self steer to one side or the other, it was standard procedure to tweak the factory specs in order to correct the problem.

Called a "Compensating Alignment".
But it really shouldn't be needed.
A good all wheel alignment will.

[Cloud Dancer]

Originally Posted by Dav L

Called a "Compensating Alignment".
But it really shouldn't be needed.
A good all wheel alignment will.

*
I depended on my steady customers. We mostly serviced FLEETS from the immediate area (Eastside Industrial). I bought the business from Bill May. These were mostly his customers, who he introduced to me personally. The handshake agreement was for me to treat them the same way as Bill May. I wanted to keep these customers. They wanted me to service and to repair their vehicles MY way. They didn't have time for long explanations. They knew that I knew that they did not want to pay for something they did not need.

[dieselclacker]

Originally Posted by alank

Sorry, but I”ll have to disagree. Freightliner caster specs make the coach steering pull to the left to off set the pull of the crown of the road and solves the problem. Adding caster to the right place or reducing caster in the right place will provide the same results. It doesn’t really matter if the setting is outside factory recommended specs. I run my caster angles at about one half of factory minimum spec to get the amount of “trail” I want. Have done this on the last four coach chassis with great results.
Freightliner is really just passing down truck specs for use on a motor coach chassis.

What the OP didn’t tell us is if the coach originally drove fine, then started pulling to the right, or possibly it has always pulled to the right. I would be looking at two different things, depending on the answer to that.

Agree with the above, factory specs are just starting points, and oft times need to be altered to suit the situation. Ymmv

[DGundy]

Tires are generally not rotated on a motorhome. I use Centramatic Wheel Balancers to balance the hubs and not just the tire. As far as alignment, check out a heavy truck service center for a recheck and double check tire pressures. A tire under pressure could cause a pull.

[Ddtorre]

Originally Posted by Ivylog

Rotate in a X pattern, take the 4 off the back and put on the front. OK, MH tires are not rotated. Would help if you filled in the info about which MH you have in your signature. Answering the questions above would help. Maybe someone put a steering stabilizer on that needs adjusting?
PS: welcome

If you're going to rotate, radial tires rotate front to back, do not cross. Crossing tires is for bias ply only.

Generally, move tires around only when replacing. Put front tires on the back and only use new tires on the front. Don't put the rear tires on the front especially if they're recaps.

If they're pulling, check the tires for roundness. I've had tires that the tread separated and they pulled toward the bad tire. I have never used retreads on the steer tires, only new, and the tread still separated. Fortunately I caught it before they gave way. Had that happen on the rear, NOT FUN.

[2cyber71]

I had a bad front tire that pulled to the right. Replaced the tire and the pull went away.
I would change. Them and see if the pull goes away.
Mine was immediate
This was when I bought it new, with new tires on my DP
I think they are about $625 to replace. So if it’s new go now.

[Funwheels]

Originally Posted by JOE248

My Class A Motorhomes steering is pulling to right. I had alignment but in specs. What is proper tire rotation for a motorhome? Trying to get a couple more years out of tires since less than 5 years old.

Thanks
Joe

If you have a center steering cylinder it might be causing the problem. My class A was pulling to right and resetting the center steering fixed the problem. This is a mechanical device and it's a mechanical adjustment.

[PeterFTH]

Originally Posted by JOE248

My Class A Motorhomes steering is pulling to right. I had alignment but in specs. What is proper tire rotation for a motorhome? Trying to get a couple more years out of tires since less than 5 years old.

Thanks
Joe

Look for a dragging brake on the right front side - not only bad for steering, but for the brake linings and the tire. As for tires, examine closely for any checking/cracks in the sidewalls and if you find any, replace them. Don't go strictly by age or tread wear.