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Old 01-13-2022, 09:41 PM   #99
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Another thing everyone who has air brakes should learn to do is to "Cage" the spring brakes. I have done that many times in my 40 year career with my work truck and trailers. IF you still have air, but a blown pancake in the spring brake chamber it can safely get you off the road to somewhere you can have the "can" replaced. Your service brakes will still function.

I carry a new caging bolt in my tool box as the ones on the side of the assembly are often corroded and a PITA to deal with.

NEVER take a chamber apart unless you know what you are doing and have the spring caged. You should be seriously injured, or killed if that spring loaded cap hits you in the head when it flies off. New assemblies do not even come apart for that reason... brake chamber assemblies are fairly inexpensive.
You should be cautioning anyone who is caging their brakes that they need to chock the wheels so they don't run themselves over.
That wil need to be done every time you park.
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Old 01-13-2022, 10:06 PM   #100
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You should be cautioning anyone who is caging their brakes that they need to chock the wheels so they don't run themselves over.
That wil need to be done every time you park.
Excellent catch! Thank you!

Forgot coaches likely only have 1 axle with spring brakes and that only leaves 1 hub with brakes when the other is caged.

Tractor/trailer latchups are a different animal.
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Old 01-14-2022, 12:00 AM   #101
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BUT... IDEA IS TO PURCHASE proper CONNECTORS at same time as you purchase 12v compressor? I have no idea what you need, but know I have seen many truckers, and truck mechanics, as example, always carry a case of assorted air fittings for roadside repairs. NAPA, OR TRUCK SHOP/ TRUCK STOP? GOOD LUCK
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Old 01-14-2022, 06:10 AM   #102
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A tow truck could " air you up " and you could drive it at least 20 miles with the tow truck following just in case.
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Old 01-14-2022, 06:22 AM   #103
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A tow truck can tow you if you leave the engine running.
No damage to the drive train.
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Old 01-14-2022, 06:28 AM   #104
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Yes...this can be done

Similar situation with our Gulf Stream years ago. Assuming you have a female aux air receptacle (many are in in forward Driver's side bay), do some gymnastics and either take a picture, or write down the lettering on your female air fitting. Get to a NAPA store, and buy a matching male fitting...and then everything in this order:
* a length of coiled air hose long enough to reach from the aux air receptacle to somewhere inside the coach.
* buy a pancake air compressor that will pump to 125 psi minimum.
* get all the fittings, pipe tape...and make sure you have a wrench to put it all together.

We ran the coiled hose thru a crack in the drivers window. Our inverter was cranky, so I lit up the gen set to provide ac power to the compressor. It was so nice to see the air gauges come up!
Drove 350 miles to Rocky Mtn Cummins in Albuquerque. Got a "great idea" from the Service Advisor. Best of luck. Our Air Dryer was "checked" just 1000 miles prior, and was diagnosed as "ok". That disintegrated air dryer caused a number of failures, or "issues" over the next two years. The next coach was pre-owned, and we just replaced it right away.
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Old 01-14-2022, 07:57 AM   #105
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Depending on your chassis manufacturer, you MAY NOT be able to add air pressure through the connection in the front of the coach. Some manufacturers ADD a check valve in the line to prevent being able to supply air pressure at that location. It is most often used to SUPPLY air pressure NOT add air pressure to the chassis.
Not knowing how knowledgeable you are nor how long you have owned the coach? However IMO the chassis's complete air system needs to be serviced. At the minimum The air compressor and air dryer requires service.
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Old 01-14-2022, 11:24 AM   #106
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Air dryer relief valve

Back 4 years ago. Heading from Texas to Florida.
Our 2007 Tiffin bus starting leaking air while we were at a fuel station.we only had it 2 years. Used.
Got in the back and found the relief valve below to air dryer popped open.
Told wife we can chance it to get to Orlando or hang it up.
Took a chance.
Doing research. Found the filter need to be replaced every 3 years.
Having a diesel is always a learning process.
Spent 3 weeks in my brother in laws back yard getting a new dryer.
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Old 01-14-2022, 03:28 PM   #107
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If you can get both primary and secondary air charged and do not have a brake chamber leak the distance you are talking about should be no big deal. Takes min. 60 psi to release the spring brake, not sure what size service tank an RV has but if you are fully aired up AFTER releasing the spring brake you should have no problem. Drive slow and use the brakes sparingly.
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Old 01-14-2022, 03:31 PM   #108
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If you can get both primary and secondary air charged and do not have a brake chamber leak the distance you are talking about should be no big deal. Takes min. 60 psi to release the spring brake, not sure what size service tank an RV has but if you are fully aired up AFTER releasing the spring brake you should have no problem. Drive slow and use the brakes sparingly.
Don't forget the ride height valves are active too.
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Old 01-14-2022, 03:40 PM   #109
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Only time you need to cage is when the pancake on the spring brake fails, then you still need to address the air leak. Haven't caged a brake in over 20 years. I usually back the brake off and put a set of vice grips on the supply line to the spring brake that is leaking. This is on a tractor trailer with 5 axles, would not do it on a motorhome except if needed to get it safely off the road.
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Old 01-14-2022, 03:45 PM   #110
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Don't forget the ride height valves are active too.
Once the suspension is aired up it doesn't really use much. The distance he is talking would be a non issue.
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Old 01-14-2022, 04:55 PM   #111
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Once the suspension is aired up it doesn't really use much. The distance he is talking would be a non issue.
Air ride suspension is active while driving.

There's about 1" of movement before they dump or use air.
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Old 01-15-2022, 06:56 AM   #112
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"Stranded" UPDATE

Still sitting here north of Atlanta, waiting for the new air dryer to arrive.
The mobile service who came last week replaced the governor and cleaned some debris from the old air dryer. They also freed up a sticking unloader, but it didn't fix the problem. They left after telling me I need a new compressor and said they were too busy to help me.
I had another mobile service come. They looked things over and said that I need a new dryer assembly and a new compressor output hose, which are on order.
Yesterday, after being frustrated just sitting here for 10 days, I decided to start it up and check pressures. Now everything appears to be working correctly. The system airs up to 125 pounds over and over, consistently after pumping down the brake pedal to below 55 pounds. It immediately climbs back up, taking 15 seconds to go from 80 to 100 pounds pressure and continuing to 125 and stops. I did this over and over. Then I would pump it down below 90 pounds and the compressor kicked back in and went right back up to 125 over and over. I checked this over and over for 1/2 hour. Then I took it out on the back road here for a test drive and filled my propane and diesel tanks and drove back and maneuvered into our space with no problems at all.
I am not going anywhere until the new air dryer is installed, but I am hopeful that we'll be back on the road soon.
Not sure, though, why all at once it is working so well.
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