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Old 08-17-2017, 11:36 AM   #43
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Boost if as dead as I think his is wouldn't help. When I had the same problem & my batteries were at 7.6v my boost didn't help much to start mine. If batteries are low yes boost will help start it. When chassis batteries are stone dead good luck.
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Old 08-17-2017, 12:09 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Mudfrog View Post
Me, i wouldn't be able to relax until i figured out what was going on here. I would definitely use that boost switch now, get the thing running, and then move the rig far enough to make access to batteries possible. Even with new batteries, you need to figure out what went wrong with the old. I have a feeling this wasn't the battery's fault.
I thought the same thing, especially since the battery compartment hasn't even been seen in 2 years. Battery cable ends could be corroded off, etc. I couldn't be that lax if I had a major problem like that. It does snow in Yosemite
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Old 08-17-2017, 04:46 PM   #45
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I had periodical trouble with my chassis batteries not staying charged when sitting hooked up to shore power for extended period of time. I installed one of these and have had no trouble now for 3 years.

I do check the levels in the batteries and connections every 6 months.

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Old 08-24-2017, 02:30 PM   #46
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Problem solved

Thanks for the posts, a couple of you hit the nail on the head. I finally called Newmar and they said that the problem probably is the relay switch, that sends current from the converter/ charger to the chassis batteries once the house batteries are charged. They advised me to put jumper cables on both sides of the relay, and if it is bad, I would here a click. I did that, but did not hear a click, however, with the jumper cables on, the chassis batteries are now charging, and I am getting power to the ignition and seats. When I take the cables off, the power slowly goes away.

So, I plan to order a new relay. The question is... can I leave the cables on in order to get the batteries charged while I wait for the relay.? Or would that damage the batteries.?

The relay is a "White-Rodgers/RBM, Type 586-105111-3, Cust. No. 586-902" Coil 12V D.C. Cont. Anyone know a good online supplier?

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Old 08-24-2017, 03:06 PM   #47
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$88.88 on Amazon Prime, 2 day delivery, in stock.

Looks like $65.28 from Emerson Electronics, would have to pay shipping.

$88.88 on ebay, also, probably plus shipping.

Ain't Google wonderful??

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Old 08-24-2017, 05:50 PM   #48
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Shouldn't hurt to keep the jumper cables on until you get the new relay. Once you get the batteries charged I would get them load tested. Being that stone dead for who knows how long would have shorten the life of those batteries.
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Old 08-25-2017, 10:47 AM   #49
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Jumping the relay contacts won't make it click but it did restore the chassis battery charging while on shore power so it is likely bad. Leave the jumper on the battery while on shore power it won't hurt a thing as that is what the relay was supposed to do. Looks like a cheap easy fix to replace a bad relay when you get home.
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Old 08-26-2017, 05:51 AM   #50
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X2 on Mike and Roy's posts

Your relay probably has two large terminals with cables that look like the ones on your batteries. It will also have two smaller terminals with a smaller wire on each. When you connected a jumper cable from one large terminal to the other large terminal, you are bypassing the relay and will not hear a click. If your engine battery begins charging when you bypass the relay, it may mean your relay is bad. It could also be that the relay is not working because it is not receiving 12 volts DC to the small terminals.

On my coach there is a B.I.R.D. (sealed small black box containing a circuit board) controlling the 12 volts to the relay. Your "boost" switch should also apply 12 volts to the relay while it is depressed. As you repeatedly push and release the boost switch, you should hear the relay clicking if it is quiet when you do it.

Your relay is most likely "normally open" (off) and closes (on) when 12 volts are applied to the small terminals. "Closed" is the same as the jumper cable being connected to the two large terminals.

Before I replaced the relay, I would put a meter (or a 12 volt light bulb) on the two smaller terminals. If there is no voltage present then the relay may not be the problem.

If you are so inclined you can disconnect the small wires from the relay and apply 12 volts to the small terminals and see if the relay clicks. If it clicks the relay is OK. Then proceed to determine why the relay is not receiving 12 volts from BIRD or Boost switch. If it does not click then the relay probably is defective.

May not be worth your time to do this but might save the cost of a new relay.
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Old 08-26-2017, 09:31 AM   #51
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Did a quick search of all the replies to your post and did not see anything about cleaning the battery posts. first things to do is check battery water level and then check battery post for corrosion. Make sure you use distilled water to fill the batteries. Regular water will work if necessary to get you to "civilization" but not recommended. Always check the simple things first before anything else.
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