|
03-19-2019, 08:47 AM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 10
|
Sub floor delaminating
I have a 2014 Sportscoach Cross Country 360DL that I purchased new in 2014. My most recent issue is that my subfloor seems to be delaminating in several areas. It is not a water leak issue but seems to me that the adhesive used in manufacturing has failed. When walking through the coach you can feel the subfloor depress to whatever is below the 2 layers of 1/8in luan. I have tried to communicate with Coachmen plant in Indiana but have been very disappointed with their response.
Has anyone run across a similar issue?
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
03-19-2019, 09:12 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,325
|
In my 2002 Eagle I have an area that has the same issue. I can jump on it and it is solid underneath. The upper ply has separated from the lower subfloor. This is in the carpeted area up front. Plan is to secure it when we replace the carpet.
|
|
|
03-19-2019, 09:15 AM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,668
|
What did Coachmen say?
What type of finished flooring do you have? Tile, carpet, wood?
If you have a heating air duct in the floor, you may be able to remove the registers and see the cross-section of the floor. Other possible spots would be beneath the heater and plumbing protrusions.
__________________
Mike
|
|
|
03-19-2019, 09:17 AM
|
#4
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 10
|
Thanks for response...my problem is the coach is only 5yrs old and not in need of new flooring. I have been contemplating addressing it from below with strategically drilled holes to the proper depth and injecting some kind of adhesive
|
|
|
03-19-2019, 09:21 AM
|
#5
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 10
|
Finish floor is linoleum. One of Coachmens comments was that the upper subfloor has 2 layers of 1/8in luan, needs to be reattached. No comment on how this is done
|
|
|
03-19-2019, 09:53 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,037
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJD53
Thanks for response...my problem is the coach is only 5yrs old and not in need of new flooring. I have been contemplating addressing it from below with strategically drilled holes to the proper depth and injecting some kind of adhesive
|
And then put a weight on top..... this could work.
__________________
'20 RAM 3500, '20 Heartland Road Warrior 430 https://thecastle.blog/ Also: Eagle Cap 950 Before:'17 Berkshire 38A class A https://dragonship.blog/ '11 Heartland Cyclone TH, '11 Lance TC, '05 Keystone TT, '76 Coachmen class A and a '16 DIY Transit conversion........
|
|
|
03-19-2019, 09:57 AM
|
#7
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 10
|
Can't decide on epoxy or 5200 as it is somewhat flexible
|
|
|
03-19-2019, 03:16 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,668
|
I see some 360DL models on RV Trader, but they are all 2017 and newer. Assuming that the floorplan has not changed, you have a large slideout on the driver's side. It might be worth your time to do some exploring beneath that slideout. With the slide open, you may be able to crouch beneath it and pull the bottom wiper seal downward far enough to see the edge of the flooring beneath the slide. There may be some type of metal angle to hold the edge of the floor together. If there is a non-destructive method of getting to the edge of the flooring from beneath the slide, it could be a way to get some adhesive between the subfloor layers without damaging the finished floor. If you think that might be possible, post some photos of what you see there. If you can get access that way, I'm envisioning some type of metal tubing that you can insert between the floor layers and pump adhesive through like a giant syringe. Stranger things have happened!
__________________
Mike
|
|
|
03-19-2019, 04:35 PM
|
#9
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 10
|
Thanks for the thought, I will give that area a look.
|
|
|
03-19-2019, 06:58 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,539
|
Might I suggest 4200 rather than 5200. Both come in slow or fast cure, slow cure would be best here as it will give you plenty of time to get the floor weighted down. 4200 is just as firm when cured but can be removed with some difficulty, 5200 cannot be removed without ruining whatever it is attached to. Both will cure under water if necessary.
It can be purchased in squeeze tubes as well as caulking gun size tubes. It will not be noticeably flexible when cured. I have used it many times to attach things to my boat and it is hard enough you cannot poke your fingernail in it. Even a screwdriver makes little damage.
__________________
2020 F28 RKS Titanium
2017 Creekside 23 RBS Sold
2016 F250 Super Crew XLT Overworked
|
|
|
03-20-2019, 07:48 AM
|
#11
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 10
|
Does the 4200 have the same strength as the 5200? And is it the same consistency...I have used 5200 several times, and think its mushy consistency will allow me to inject it somehow, and it will kind of spread out on it's own a little before it cures. Also after it is applied and some weight is placed on top of finish floor that will force it to spread out as well.
|
|
|
04-05-2019, 07:47 AM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Braidwood Il.
Posts: 8,301
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJD53
Does the 4200 have the same strength as the 5200? And is it the same consistency...I have used 5200 several times, and think its mushy consistency will allow me to inject it somehow, and it will kind of spread out on it's own a little before it cures. Also after it is applied and some weight is placed on top of finish floor that will force it to spread out as well.
|
It's rather thick would take a lot of effort to squeeze into small opening and pressure to flatten into space, I would suggest something like.
Original Gorilla Glue
The product that started it all. Original Gorilla Glue built a name for itself with its incredible, industrial holding power and versatility. The water activated polyurethane formula expands into materials to form an incredibly strong bond to virtually anything. Gorilla Glue is a waterproof polyurethane glue, safe for indoor and outdoor use and strong enough to stand up to the elements.
You could suck it up with a big syringe and pump through basting needle.When warmer it gets thinner. Slightly foams up to fill voids.
|
|
|
04-06-2019, 03:57 PM
|
#13
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 10
|
Saw that system, but was trying not to destroy linoleum...Thanks
|
|
|
04-06-2019, 04:01 PM
|
#14
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 10
|
Will the Gorilla glue set up in a "dry" environment between the layers of luan and below the linoleum?
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|