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09-18-2021, 04:03 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
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Suburban Water Heater Not Too Heated
Hello, I have a Suburban water heater on my 98’ Dutch Star. Issue I’m having is on the electric side of it. It just doesn’t get hot enough. I have troubleshooted the problem and found the electric element was bad. I replaced it and it has improved a lot but still not too where I think it should be. I’m thinking that it has to be the thermostat not keeping the element on. I want to replace that but I don’t know where the T-stat is. When you open the panel there are the 2 that can be reset for the high temperature cut offs. Do those also control regular operations or just turn it off when it gets too hot? I can’t find a good answer online and calling suburban they just refer me to authorized service. I attached a pic of the T-stats I’m talking about.
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09-18-2021, 04:26 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 5,152
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IF you have an inside shower head AND an outside shower head with button style off valves on the heads, and you have one or both of those off but the mixing valves for hot and cold still on, note that that will mix water and when you try to get hot water out of say one of the showers, or the sink faucet to wash dishes, that it'll only get warm.
So check that first.
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09-18-2021, 04:41 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,848
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As your Picture shows
Left SET is the 120VAC for element
Right SET is the 12VDC for propane
Come in sets with Top t-stat being the High temp and trips at 170*F/bottom is the Normal temp and opens at 130*F/closes for reheat at 100*F
High have to be manually reset if they trip
"Push To Reset' circle on Cover
120VAC part number --- 232306
12VDC part number ----233534
****Look close at picture and on the left set the connecting wire between the top High Temp and the bottom Normal temp t-stat is burnt into. (pic is one from Internet)
Wire will burn thru from high amp load....less then the 15A circuit breaker (or DC fuse for right set)
**Showers not turned off via knobs can cause luke warm temps but would happen whether on Electric or Propane
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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09-18-2021, 07:23 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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I had the exact same symptom with my Suburban heater, water was not as hot when heated by electric element. Replaced the 120vac thermostat and it’s been fine ever since.
__________________
Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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09-18-2021, 11:29 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
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Thank you for your help. That’s the kind of answer I was looking for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit
As your Picture shows
Left SET is the 120VAC for element
Right SET is the 12VDC for propane
Come in sets with Top t-stat being the High temp and trips at 170*F/bottom is the Normal temp and opens at 130*F/closes for reheat at 100*F
High have to be manually reset if they trip
"Push To Reset' circle on Cover
120VAC part number --- 232306
12VDC part number ----233534
****Look close at picture and on the left set the connecting wire between the top High Temp and the bottom Normal temp t-stat is burnt into. (pic is one from Internet)
Wire will burn thru from high amp load....less then the 15A circuit breaker (or DC fuse for right set)
**Showers not turned off via knobs can cause luke warm temps but would happen whether on Electric or Propane
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09-18-2021, 11:29 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
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I’m hoping that’s how it works for me too. Thank you.
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09-19-2021, 07:44 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 2,822
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Here's the troubleshooting manual for the Surburban WH which may help you
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Vera & Ken
1998 Holiday Rambler Imperial, RR8S Chassis
Cummins 6C8.3 mechanical engine, 325HP, 3060 Allison
Towing 2014 Ford Explorer
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10-28-2021, 05:23 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
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Just to wrap this one up in case someone else has a similar issue. I troubleshooted it all and originally found that my electric element was bad. After replacing that still was not getting hot. So I bought a new T-Stat and replaced it. This solved my issue. I will say if you have the same problem as me I would recommend 1st taking off your T-stat and cleaning behind it. Mine had a little spot of green corrosion behind it that may have been causing the issue and could have saved me $20. Since I already spent the money I just replaced mine.
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