Community Forums

FBL · 05-31-2021, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biljol

Also do you have a toad you could get the pipe off take to a place to make up a replacement then put it back on.

Don’t know if you have a toad?

Of course he may be dealing with a fully welded tail pipe.

Toad was recently vandalized in DeSoto NF- sold it for salvage as I never use it. The insurance savings were more than I could get for it. Love not having one!!
The pipe is welded- no chance up here, solo, with basic tools.

Alpine36 · 05-31-2021, 08:30 PM

Sounds like you're in a beautiful area. May as well make lemonade outta today's lemons and have a relaxing night, even with the bears lol.
Could you perhaps post a picture showing how bad the damage is?
We may be over reacting.....

FBL · 05-31-2021, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpine36

Sounds like you're in a beautiful area. May as well make lemonade outta today's lemons and have a relaxing night, even with the bears lol.
Could you perhaps post a picture showing how bad the damage is?
We may be over reacting.....

Yes, I will at first light...I am low key most of the time...but this one has me nervous...

tap4154 · 05-31-2021, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FBL

Yes, I will at first light...I am low key most of the time...but this one has me nervous...

Get some good pictures of the whole situation, maybe we can help you figure out a strategy. Maybe let us know what tools you have as well.

rssnape · 05-31-2021, 09:16 PM

Would you be up for taking a sawzall and cutting it off? Brevard is just down the road. Any plumber worth his salt, will have a sawzall on his truck. Maybe you could find one that will come up for a quick job.

SlowJoe · 05-31-2021, 09:28 PM

Not sure what tools you have.

Can you use a pry bar/ screwdriver/ big wrench, etc to try to bend it back open?

Can you use a big hammer ( or something as a hammer) to beat it back open?

Is there a section which you can unbolt a flange or a clamp? It can not be entirely welded. I would unbolt it from the manifolds if I had to. If you can unbolt a section then you can tie it up underneath with wire/ straps/ rope/ bed sheet etc.

Think about what resources you have an get creative. Good luck!!!

rssnape · 05-31-2021, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rssnape

Would you be up for taking a sawzall and cutting it off? Brevard is just down the road. Any plumber worth his salt, will have a sawzall on his truck. Maybe you could find one that will come up for a quick job.

Edit. Rereading you original post, your hack saw wasn’t working. I’m sure a sawzall with a sharp blade will cut it.

99dart · 05-31-2021, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FBL

Yes, I will at first light...I am low key most of the time...but this one has me nervous...

Do you by chance have an infrared temperature gun for checking your tire temps? If so, you could monitor the catalytic convertor temps by stopping and taking temp readings.
I'm going to try to help ease your nerves here.

When there is a level spot where you can accelerate, take note of the power level, is it what you are used too. If it feels the same, I wouldn't worry too much about things overheating. If it feels like it is bogging & really struggling to get moving, then you have an issue. In this case just take it easy, don't try to climb a hill wide open. LOL That will surely get things cookin' down there!

Taken from internet, "Catalytic converters usually run at 1200 to 1600 degrees Fahrenheit. An overheated converter turns bright red and becomes hotter than 2000 degrees Fahrenheit!"
Good luck getting down off the mountain. Just take things slow an' easy. It will be alright.

tap4154 · 05-31-2021, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rssnape

Edit. Rereading you original post, your hack saw wasn’t working. I’m sure a sawzall with a sharp blade will cut it.

A sawzall with a decent blade will definitely cut it, just ask any thief that has been stealing catalytic converters for the past few years. They cut them out literally in a minute or two. I'm a tradesman, and I always have a sawzall and a long crowbar on my truck. If I lived nearby I'd be happy to drive up and help him out, but I'm in Southern California. I think the idea to try to contact someone down the mountain that might have a sawzall to come up and help him out is great. Or put out a cardboard sign leaned up against the motor home, "if you have a sawzall, I'd love to feed you lunch!".

rssnape · 06-01-2021, 06:23 AM

FBL. Check your private messages.

Sweetbriar · 06-01-2021, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FBL

,,, I have looked everywhere for a diagram of where the fuel tank is on a 2008 F53 chassis- only wiring diagrams. The tank is 3'x2'x14"- possibly encased in plastic? Maybe with straps?,,,

The steel fuel tank, all 70 gallons of it, is the last thing between the frame rails behind the rear axle and is held in place by three steel hangers. The fuel lines, filter and charcoal canisters are all on the driver's side and away from the potential hot areas of the exhaust. You won't technically loose brakes or steering if the engine does stall but without the power assist it will feel that way, particularly for the brakes.

I would try and loosen the hardware at the header to exhaust piping flange just in front of the catalytic converter to allow the back pressure someplace to go if the crushed tail pipe is overly restricting flow. The drive out would be very leisurely, keeping throttle based RPM as low as possible, to either the repair facility, a place I could work on it with power tools or where the tow operator can do a pick up.

Engine braking will still be fully effective as a gas coach does not exhaust brake like a diesel but instead is vacuum braking against the throttle body butterflies valves so let those RPM numbers climb rather the cooking your brakes.

rssnape · 06-01-2021, 08:34 AM

Check your message and call me.
Thanks

lsalem · 06-01-2021, 08:58 AM

Just recently lost the end of my exhaust pipe on mu way back home. Was able to buy a 3 inch by 36 inch piece of pipe from O Riley auto parts that was swaged on one end and a 3 inch clamp. Cut the bad end off slid new pipe on clamped and cut the end to the proper length. 15 min. job with a saws-all. Hardest part was getting up off of the ground when done.
The suggestion to try and find a plumber with a saws-all is a good one. maybe the park maintenance staff may have one.

Dav L · 06-01-2021, 11:05 AM

Got a generator? Use a right angle grinder with a 4" metal blade. Will cut that pipe in under 5 minutes. Sawazall will do the job, but not as nicely.

Just cut the flattened portion off (wherever that is).

Don't drive with a clogged exhaust. That will compound your days' problems.

don't bother drilling. If you can drill, you can cut.

When using a cut-off wheel, never look down at the blade as then your head is in line with the wheel if / when it breaks apart. Wear heavy work gloves.