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Old 05-31-2021, 03:38 PM   #1
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Tailpipe fell down, rear tires ran over

Only when you take a 34' Hurricane up to 3500 feet in Pisgah NF, and tailpipe came down, got caught under rear dualies, and is crimped at very end and almost bent closed about 18" from end) toward muffler. All else seems ok.
Two hours with hack saw (to ensure exhaust )got me the slightest scratch. It is 2 miles down to 276, but still a distance to a shop.
My Roadside assistance doesn't climb mountains- I have to get to 64.
Opinions on whether, after hanging the damaged pipe at its original level, I can safely use a titanium bit with electric drill to open some holes for exhaust? I have looked everywhere for a diagram of where the fuel tank is on a 2008 F53 chassis- only wiring diagrams. The tank is 3'x2'x14"- possibly encased in plastic? Maybe with straps?

The 2 miles down is steep and hairpin turns. If clogged exhaust pipe shut down the rig, I might lose brakes, steering?

The ranger and law enforcement have been so great. You cannot overnight on Avery Creek Roadside sites, but they are letting me stay. It is gorgeous up here!
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Old 05-31-2021, 03:54 PM   #2
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I would drill a whole lot of holes facing downwards in a section of pipe that you are going to have to replace anyway. I would also not run the engine much when not moving to keep the exhaust out of the RV. Going downhill will work in your favor for sure. Good luck. On another thought, I would call around for a muffler shop, many can bend the pipes needed and install them, but maybe not on a motorhome so I would call and schedule an appointment. ~Craig
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Old 05-31-2021, 04:45 PM   #3
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My advise would be to get everything ready, get in the camper and head down the mountain. Don't drill any holes and do any more damage to the exhaust than has already been done until you get to a repair shop.

Watch your temp gauge and use as little throttle as possible to get the coach off the mountain. The back pressure will cause loss of power and heat build up but should not do any other damage. If your are really concerned, limit your drive time to about 20 or 30 mins at at time and keep speed down as much as reasonably possible. Inspect for heat build up at each stop. If heat is extreme you will have to lengthen cooling period and shorten travel period. Do the opposite if heat is not bad (Catalytic Converter will be the hot spot)

Good luck---Your Exhaust is Stainless Steal, that's why it's so hard to cut with hack saw.
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Old 05-31-2021, 04:54 PM   #4
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I had to read your post four times, but I think what you're saying.....is you're looking to drill holes in the frame to make a support for the exhaust, but fear drilling into the tank.

I would just hacksaw off the damaged piece and let the exhaust blow where it may. Maybe angle cut it to get it away from blowing inside the coach. Once you cut off the bad section, if there is not enough support still for the remaining muffler, use some coat hangars to wire it up temporarily.
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Old 05-31-2021, 05:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
I had to read your post four times, but I think what you're saying.....is you're looking to drill holes in the frame to make a support for the exhaust, but fear drilling into the tank.

I would just hacksaw off the damaged piece and let the exhaust blow where it may. Maybe angle cut it to get it away from blowing inside the coach. Once you cut off the bad section, if there is not enough support still for the remaining muffler, use some coat hangars to wire it up temporarily.
I think he was simply unable to cut it with the hacksaw, he said he barely scratched it after 2 hours. Stainless steel is hard to cut, they have special tools for cutting exhaust pipes like that. If you can flag someone down that had a Sawzall with a good metal blade that might work. In another thread here today some guy with a Sawzall was able to cut off a damaged tire that was tangled in stuff on their trailer, and get the people back on the road. I'm beginning to think I'm going to carry a Sawzall in my motorhome!

Not knowing where it's pinched down, I was wondering if it's possible that a rod or pole or something could be put into the exhaust pipe, and hammered through to maybe open it up a little bit? A long crowbar would probably do it, but it just depends on what he has on him. In fact with the long crowbar, like I carry in my truck, he might be able to bend it back and open up the end.

I think his other idea was just to drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of the exhaust pipe on the inboard side of the crimp for the exhaust to escape, but that's going to still restrict it a lot. Not to mention drilling stainless steel isn't easy either.
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Old 05-31-2021, 05:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tap4154 View Post
I think he was simply unable to cut it with the hacksaw, he said he barely scratched it after 2 hours. Stainless steel is hard to cut, they have special tools for cutting exhaust pipes like that. If you can flag someone down that had a Sawzall with a good metal blade that might work. In another thread here today some guy with a Sawzall was able to cut off a damaged tire that was tangled in stuff on their trailer, and get the people back on the road. I'm beginning to think I'm going to carry a Sawzall in my motorhome!

Not knowing where it's pinched down, I was wondering if it's possible that a rod or pole or something could be put into the exhaust pipe, and hammered through to maybe open it up a little bit? A long crowbar would probably do it, but it just depends on what he has on him. In fact with the long crowbar, like I carry in my truck, he might be able to bend it back and open up the end.

I think his other idea was just to drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of the exhaust pipe on the inboard side of the crimp for the exhaust to escape, but that's going to still restrict it a lot. Not to mention drilling stainless steel isn't easy either.
Thanks....I had a hard time deciphering what he was saying, didn't get the scratch part, but figured out the two numbers were roads near him. There should be a section that can be unbolted.
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Old 05-31-2021, 05:39 PM   #7
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Thanks....I had a hard time deciphering what he was saying. There should be a section that can be unbolted.
That's what I was wondering too, maybe he can just unbolt that whole section?
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Old 05-31-2021, 05:46 PM   #8
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I would NOT recommend driving it with the exhaust tailpipe closed off. It doesn't take much restriction to overheat the catalytic converter to the point of meltdown. If anything, drop the exhaust flange post cat, open the forward Windows and head to the nearest exhaust shop. Yes, it will be noisey and probably cause a check engine light, but it won't damage anything but maybe your pride a bit. Good luck.
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Old 05-31-2021, 06:45 PM   #9
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Get the pipe off and try to bend open with driving over it some to take the kink out then put back on.

May work may not but will not hurt anything and with the pipe off you can drive without issue.

Just donít pop a tire trying.
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Old 05-31-2021, 06:46 PM   #10
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Also do you have a toad you could get the pipe off take to a place to make up a replacement then put it back on.

Donít know if you have a toad?

Of course he may be dealing with a fully welded tail pipe.
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Old 05-31-2021, 07:08 PM   #11
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DW smashed her exhust pipe closed. Long story. I came and helped her. The tire iron with hubcap end did the trick. But you are 18". Not sure it will reach.
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Old 05-31-2021, 08:16 PM   #12
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine36 View Post
I would NOT recommend driving it with the exhaust tailpipe closed off. It doesn't take much restriction to overheat the catalytic converter to the point of meltdown. If anything, drop the exhaust flange post cat, open the forward Windows and head to the nearest exhaust shop. Yes, it will be noisey and probably cause a check engine light, but it won't damage anything but maybe your pride a bit. Good luck.
Can you clarify " drop the exhaust flange post cat"? I have located the nearest shop...but still 20 (VERY SLOW ??!!) Miles away..
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Old 05-31-2021, 08:21 PM   #13
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If you can seperate the exhaust pipe after the cat, but before the damaged section. Many cats use a bolted flange affair to couple the mid pipe before the muffler/tailpipe. No cutting required, just use bailing wire to keep it in place.
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Old 05-31-2021, 08:21 PM   #14
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MyThanks...This is my real concern...
The original bend is now a bubble, but the lower one looks tight. The very end has 3 small openings.
I won't bother trying to drill.
This forum advice could literally be a life saver.
I wish they would send a truck up here...I would pay anything.
In the meantime, finally had the first black bear sightings of the season. Lone, young male.
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