The Search is over First Class A

[scbwr]

Keep in mind that you may experience two types of problems, steering stability and coach sway.

My Bay Star's stability improved quite a bit by getting the front end aligned, adjusting tire pressure (using inflation chart from Toyo) and adding a Roadmaster steering stabilizer. I'm comfortable driving it, but I find that I definitely like keeping two hands on the wheel and it's best to keep the speed at 60 mph or so.

Based upon my research and limited experience:

I haven't had a lot of coach body sway because the previous owner installed Sumo Springs all the way around. Alternatively, body sway can be addressed by trying the cheap handling fix, or replacing rear and front sway bars with heavier duty sway bars from Roadmaster or other manufacturer.

If I were in your situation, I'd go with the alignment, tire pressure adjustment and steering stabilizer. If that doesn't improve the driving stability, you may have to make the difficult decision of trading it in and getting a different rig. If the stability improves and you think you can be happy with it, then consider addressing body sway by doing one or more of the options mentioned above.

I really hope you can get the situation resolved as I know how disappointing it is to go from the excitement of a new rig to feeling that it may have been a huge mistake. Do enough reading and you will see that a class A gas motorhome can be stable on the road (relative to driving a big box down the highway).

[LETMGROW]

There have been several threads in this forum addressing the handling of the F53 Ford chassis. TeJay has done a good job with modifications he calls "Cheap Handling Fix" A search on here will guide you to many posts about this on here.
Having the suspension checked and the front end alignment checked and adjusted is a good start. The steering wheel should be straight when going down a straight flat highway. The suggestions of checking tire pressures is also a good start. C W may have set the pressures for a fully loaded coach when they replaced the tires. You should find a chart somewhere in the coach with tire pressure recommendations on it. Read and heed.
Gas Class A units are notorious for poor handling. You will never get the handling feel of a well tuned sports car. Your class A may be improved but you will always have to be steering it. It's the nature of the beast.
I have a Workhorse chassis under my gas class A. Trust me it's probably no better than your Ford chassis. I have added a Safe-T-Steer steering dampener and replaced the front shocks, have all new tires and have experimented with tire pressures and have had the front end aligned. All of this has helped a little to get it handling better but it's still a handful and somewhat tiring to drive. If anyone tries to tell you any differently, well, there blowing smoke you know where.
Good luck.
Lynn

[Dads Toy]

The whole trip was like trying to control a crash that was about to happen. I even had a Smart Car go by me at speed and blew me off the road. The worst was a semi that wasn't carrying a trailer. When he went by it blew me over into an on ramp!! Thank God no one was coming onto the highway. Wife was scare Sh***less. I told her it wasn't me and the coach just went that way on its own. I asked her if she wanted to drive....and that is how the fight started. I have read the threads about tires and adjusting pressures per weight of the axles. Really good stuff from the Tireman he posted. I used to be a mechanic by trade. I don't think there is enough sway bars, steering bar etc that could fix this beast. Its like half the time your going down the road sideways. Was not relaxing as we were hoping for. Took 2 days to claim down. Now I am looking at this BURT (big Ugly Rolling Turd) setting in my driveway thinking what a big mistake this was. We have had travel trailers in the past and love camping. Thought this would be easier on us to setup. Which it was. But the trip to and from is so stressful its not worth it. I am afraid something awful will happen on the open road. We thought buying a newer rig we wouldn't have the problems some of the older one had. Can't really see any benefit between old and a newer coach. When you can only go 50mph and hoping you don't crash. Plus you have a line of cars behind you wishing you get out of the way. That's not fun. But granted I would say I am looking forward to getting it back out and going some where just so I can meet more people and just to get away from the house. Just want to get out there and make memories with my family along the way with what time I have left. Sun rises and sun sets yet to be seen in this great place we call America.

[LETMGROW]

If you used to be a mechanic by trade you will understand there is something wrong with this coach. From what you are describing this coach does have something wrong with it. Maybe that's why it was traded in.
Is there any chance you can get in touch with the previous owner and ask him or her about their experience driving this coach. C W must have a record and should be able to give you the previous owner's name unless of course they are trying to hide something.
If you do get this coach on an alignment rack talk to the technician and explain to him what the problem is you are trying to correct. Have him look carefully for any signs of damage to the undercarriage and suspension. Also have someone or maybe two push on the rear of the coach while it's on the rack with someone under the coach looking for a loose anti-sway bar bushing, link or bracket. Do the same for the front. Check for loose spring to axle U bolts etc.
Have you contacted C W where you bought this unit and discussed this with them? Tell them it's uncontrolable and unsafe to drive. Is there any warranty on this coach? You may have to act before the time runs out.
Lynn

[LETMGROW]

I have been thinking about your previous post where you said the steering wheel is off 1/4 turn. When you go for the alignment be sure to mention this to the tech or whoever is in charge. If the steering wheel is indexed properly on the steering shaft the wheel should be straight across when the wheels are straight ahead.
There is a high point in the gears inside the gear box. The gear box should be positioned there with the wheels straight ahead to get the best handling. It's unusual for a steering wheel to be off that much unless someone has had the wheel off for other services and didn't install it back on correctly or something in the steering is bent causing the wheel to be off center.
If the gear box is off it's high point it can and will affect handling when driving or how tight a circle you can make when turning the wheel to the right or the left but it'd have no affect when you are stopped and vehicles are passing by you.
If you need more insight to centering the wheel just ask.
Lynn

[Dads Toy]

I forgot to mention it has the JRide suspension. Something that Jayco came up with to make the ride smoother....Hey right. Yes it does ride nice. No up or down bouncing. You just don't have control on which direction you are going.

[SimRacer]

Dads Toy,
Go to https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/, (the Ford chassis thread).
Read up on the two "STICKY" threads at the top of the page.

FIRST; check your coach for loose. missing rear sway bar bushings and/or brackets. Well known for the bolts to loosen and the retainer or bushing to disappear. This has been documented even with new units in the past few years. Even when torqued to spec ( 66 ft. pounds ) the bolts have loosened within 2000 miles. Your favorite Locktite, blue or red, will prevent them from backing out. I used blue about 3 1/2 years ago when I found a couple of my bolts loose.
Post what you find and consider posting further questions on the Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum I note above. Lots of more knowledgeable and experienced people there

The bolts backing out does not seem to occur on the front sway bar .

Others have offered good advice, tire pressure, weigh coach, alignment , CHF
then aftermarket addons.

[Dads Toy]

So during the walk thru I ask the Tech what should the tire pressures be. He said 95lbs. Our Precept has brand new Firestone FS561 tires 245/70R19.5. The side wall spec says the tire pressure cold should be 110psi. When we got home from our trip that was the first thing I did was check tire pressure while hot. Was 103psi hot. So I am wondering if my tire pressure is too low. Firestone spec sheet says 95psi for F rated tires and 110psi for G rated tires. My sidewalls info says 110psi cold. Another issue I read up on searching on IRV2 is balancing bags. It seems mobile truck tire companies don't have the equipment on hand to balance tires. So they use these powered bags inside the wheels to balance the tires. After a couple of miles the bags empty out and supposedly the tire is balance. I remember when on went on a test drive with the sales guy. A mobile tire truck passed us. He said those are the guys that came out and installed the tires. So I am sure these didn't have a spin balancing machine on their truck. People on the tire thread said the faster you go the better it gets. I can remember getting up to 70mph once and the coach seem to drive fine. That was until my wife saw how fast we was going and freak out. The slower I go the worst the handling got. I look at each tire and there are no lead weights on the rims. So I am sure they are Bag balance.

I look under the rig and it looks new like it just rolled off the assembly line. No oil leaks, no rust, no drit...clean. Has very big sway bars and all the hardware is in place and rock solid. So I am thinking the problem is tires and wheel alignment. In order to balance the tires. They have to be removed and all the power removed. Then remount the tires and spin balance them the right way. I don't think CW is going to go for this. Wonder if they have a coach return policy.

[Gary from SC]

Reading your description of how cars, trucks will blow you all over the road is how my RV used to drive. My RV is quite different than yours 2000 Winnebago with a p32 Workhorse chassis. But in my case and probably yours, it was the tail wagging the dog. The long overhang behind the rear tires will cause the rear springs to flex left and right, pushing the RV all over the road, making it almost impossible to control in high winds, or passing traffic.
Anyway I solved my problem by installing a panhard, or track bar. It attaches from rear axle to the frame, allowing the rear springs up, and down movement, but allowing no or very little left right movement, thus stopping the tail wagging the dog. Before installing the trac bar I was going to sell mu newly acquired RV because it was dangerous to drive. I hope the helps, safe driving.

[LETMGROW]

Originally Posted by Dads Toy

So during the walk thru I ask the Tech what should the tire pressures be. He said 95lbs. Our Precept has brand new Firestone FS561 tires 245/70R19.5. The side wall spec says the tire pressure cold should be 110psi. When we got home from our trip that was the first thing I did was check tire pressure while hot. Was 103psi hot. So I am wondering if my tire pressure is too low. Firestone spec sheet says 95psi for F rated tires and 110psi for G rated tires. My sidewalls info says 110psi cold. Another issue I read up on searching on IRV2 is balancing bags. It seems mobile truck tire companies don't have the equipment on hand to balance tires. So they use these powered bags inside the wheels to balance the tires. After a couple of miles the bags empty out and supposedly the tire is balance. I remember when on went on a test drive with the sales guy. A mobile tire truck passed us. He said those are the guys that came out and installed the tires. So I am sure these didn't have a spin balancing machine on their truck. People on the tire thread said the faster you go the better it gets. I can remember getting up to 70mph once and the coach seem to drive fine. That was until my wife saw how fast we was going and freak out. The slower I go the worst the handling got. I look at each tire and there are no lead weights on the rims. So I am sure they are Bag balance.

I look under the rig and it looks new like it just rolled off the assembly line. No oil leaks, no rust, no drit...clean. Has very big sway bars and all the hardware is in place and rock solid. So I am thinking the problem is tires and wheel alignment. In order to balance the tires. They have to be removed and all the power removed. Then remount the tires and spin balance them the right way. I don't think CW is going to go for this. Wonder if they have a coach return policy.

First of all Dad you need to step back and take a deep breath. Like I had to do when my daughter would come to me and say, "I'm engaged". This happened to me three times. That wouldn't have been any big deal but each time it was the same daughter! LOL no, seriously.
First of all the pressure you are reading on the sidewall of your tires is the "Maximum Cold Tire Pressure". Not the recommended pressure to run your tires at. 95# sounds quite reasonable to me but if you find the label in your coach with the tire information it will give you a better idea of what pressure you should be running. To have a tire build pressure from 95# to 103# on a warm day after driving a while sounds reasonable. Wait until the tire cools then recheck the pressure(s). Adjust the pressure to the recommended pressures on the label front and rear. They may differ.
Don't be concerned with tire balance. An out of balance condition wouldn't cause your coach to handle poorly the way you describe.
Again. Get this coach onto an alignment rack and have it checked thoroughly for any loose suspension or steering parts, correct ride height and alignment. be sure they check the bolts holding the steering gear to the frame or brackets and have them check the gear box for true center.
Most Ford chassis owners report they like the caster angles to be on the high end of the positive specs.
As for the tail wagging the dog. There are kits available to help manage this. Notice I didn't say "Correct this". The rear Trac bar addition would be a good start but don't be too discouraged if it doesn't totally eliminate your problem. It probably won't.
There is an advertiser on this forum who can help in selection of what you may need. www.Ultrarvproducts.com.
After you get the suspension, steering and alignment checked and corrected along with the tire pressures check back in and give us an update.
Lynn

[franklin99]

Congrats that is a beautiful coach. It looks like it has plenty of storage.

[cobia]

I had the same problems but after the chef and steering stabilizer it's like driving a new car.

Originally Posted by Dads Toy

We bought this with the intention of her driving it too. After she saw how hard it was to drive she doesn't want anything to do with it. When we go on regular driving trip in the car see drives. She likes to drive. So I set in the back with my son and play games .lol. So this setup might not work. So sad after search all this time.

[PorscheLover]

Originally Posted by Grapehound

DadsToy, congrats on the new Class A! I am sure it takes a while to get a feel for the unit.

tropical 36, does a tag axle automatically improve stabilty and sway? It makes sense that it would, I just never thought about it. I am not that mechanical so I may have to find a truck garage nearby that can add a suspension stabilizer, etc.

I can tell you that our 28 foot Class C was pushed around significantly by semi’s. When we moved to the tag axle 45 foot class A that wasn’t an issue, however there was quite a bit of play in the steering wheel. We attended a rally and learned of fixes to the steering box which would minimize this substantially for some coaches. Unfortunately our Monaco had a box which couldn’t be modified. Since moving up to the Prevost I can drive it with a couple fingers on the steering wheel and a cup of coffee in the other hand. I joke that it’s like driving a 52k pound Lexus. To the OP, hopefully you can attend a rally and/or keep asking questions on forums like this to find a way to improve the handling. I’m sure there are things that can be done.

[becken63]

I put in a heated floor with a bathroom and cleanout for a dump. 24 X 48. 13 ft door. 14 ft 6 inch sidewall. 6 in floor. wish sidewalls were 16 ft and 14 ft door