Throttle Use with Diesel & "Lugging"

[wb7auk]

The CAC is the most over looked item for keeping it clean and it is an important
part of the intake air system.

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by tnrvers

Sky Boss
An added comment for you to chew on since you are new to diesels and this will only apply if you have a rear mounted radiator, doesn't apply to side mounts. You should spay and wash both the radiator and CAC (Charged Air Cooler-looks like a radiator in front of the coolant radiator). If you don't and if the engine blow-by hasn't been extended you will eventually collect enough gunk to restrict airflow through both and this will increase your inlet temps and you will notice and increase in coolant temps.

What I and many others do at least once a year is to take a degreaser (I use simple green in a lawn and garden sprayer) and spray the CAC from under the MH as well as lifting the bed so you can get the top. Also, spray through the radiator fins. Let it soak for a little bit and then spray it off (I use a pressure sprayer that attaches to my hose (used hot water from water hear once but now just use it from the outside tap) and you will be surprised how much dirt and grim comes off.

To help reduce this buildup just measure your blow-by tube and get a good quality piece of hose and extend it to within a couple of inches from the ground. This will allow most of the blow-by gases to exit out from under the rear rather than getting pulled up by the engine fan.

Not trying to confuse you just trying to help, it happened to me. After driving big trucks and retiring it never entered my mind the the rear radiator would pick up so much gunk because with the radiator in the front on trucks and gas MHs one doesn't have that problem.

Tom and Barb
2000 Bounder 39Z

Sky Boss,
Here is one for you to chew on regarding extending the crankcase breather tube.
This tube is designed to maintain a given negative crankcase pressure at a fixed dia. And length.
If you change the dimension of the tube, you could very well change the crankcase pressure from negative to positive which will cause excessive oil consumption and possible oil leaks.
If you modify this tube, you should have a manometer on the crankcase under load to confirm you have not effected the OEM design.
I have seen this happen on these engines in stationary applications by operators just trying to do a good job and keep things clean. More than one engine was overhauled pre mature because they saw oil consumption and leaks due to this mod.
Food for thought!

[flaggship1]

I may be mistaken but thought there was an OEM replacement that was longer and assumed it was designed to do no harm. Guess a call to Cummins would be in order and knowing the right questions to ask is greatly appreciated. Thanks cause I have read of these extensions before and not heard the above issues.

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by flaggship1

I may be mistaken but thought there was an OEM replacement that was longer and assumed it was designed to do no harm. Guess a call to Cummins would be in order and knowing the right questions to ask is greatly appreciated. Thanks cause I have read of these extensions before and not heard the above issues.

Chances are very good that if it is an OEM part, it will work. The issue I was getting at was the home grown fix that causes a restriction because of smaller dia. Or longer length without an increase in dia.

[flaggship1]

Originally Posted by dennis45

Chances are very good that if it is an OEM part, it will work. The issue I was getting at was the home grown fix that causes a restriction because of smaller dia. Or longer length without an increase in dia.

Well my site and net search skills are obviously lacking this morning. I can find lots of references to extend, reroute, add a collection can, etc but not OEM tube or longer replacement tube part number. So back to the call to FL or Cummins. I did read a great DIY service article by RVCruiser - always bow to the great writing and detail that can be found there!
Steve