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Old 11-30-2022, 09:37 PM   #1
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 92
Tire talk

Hello, I’m at the five year mark and will be getting new tires, Fleetwood Fiesta 34B, workhorse chassis. Tires are 245/70-19.5”. I have factory steel wheels with stainless simulator covers. I’d like to install a pressure monitoring system, so I have a few questions, as well as a few generic questions.
1.) What brand TPM system is everyone running or recommend?
2.) I’ve read I should change from rubber valve stems to steel, is this suggested?
3.) If steel valve stems required, is there a brand recommended?
4.) I need new wheel simulators, is there a better quality brand?
5.) My RV currently has Hercules tires, I’ve read these are pretty good tires, thoughts?
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Old 11-30-2022, 10:08 PM   #2
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Location: Ohio
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Sorry.. still learning here too.. I have 2000 about to go down same road .. but as I discovered this yr.. my spare is oem.. never been used.. 23yrs+ .. so my suggestion is look at date on spare.. and rotate it out.. put one of your current tire to spare.. if newer .. you should see mine.. looks new.. but I about crapped when I read date.. I know it does not get sun.. and it holds air fine.. . But after changing one flat.. I don't want to turn around and do it again.. op never changed spare.. well he was 85.. but I will correct it.. just a suggestion.. I can't wait for all the great opinions..
Good luck and keep us posted
2000 southwind storm, workhorse custom chassis with 7.4l vortec
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Old 12-01-2022, 08:36 AM   #3
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I use Tireminder. Many use TST.
Shell Bleiweiss
2014 1/2 Thor Challenger 37KT
Sedona, AZ
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Old 12-01-2022, 08:43 AM   #4
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I use Eez-tire. I compared TST and Eez and found Eez does just as well for hundreds less $$ than TST.

I would definitely buy Eez-tire again.
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Old 12-01-2022, 08:46 AM   #5
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I use Guta TPMS (

Some will claim it is cheap and unreliable based on price. I have found it to be head and shoulders better than the Tire Minder system I previously used.
2017 Ventana 3412
2010 Honda Fit Toad
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Old 12-01-2022, 09:06 AM   #6
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You will find that there is no "Best" tire, valve stem, or TPMS. Every brand will have loyal owners who will claim the brand they have is the best. I use TST, Steel valve stems, with Toyo tires. I don't claim they are the best, but it's what my dealer and I agreed to replace the original Michelins. My suggestion is to go to a dealer you trust who will support what he sells after the sale.
2013 43 QGP Allegro Bus ( SOLD )
2013 Avalanche
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Old 12-01-2022, 12:21 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by brunson67 View Post
2.) I’ve read I should change from rubber valve stems to steel, is this suggested?
Yes, it is suggested, but it is highly likely that you already have metal valve stems already from the factory, unless the tires have been changed previously by a prior owner, where the tire shop fitted rubber stems.

It seems highly unlikely that Workhorse chassis would allow rubber valve stems on 19.5" wheels, since even the highest rated HP rubber valve stem is limited to 100 psi, and most 19.5" tire fitments on a motorhome chassis newer than 2007 are specified with load range G tires, which have maximum inflation rating of 110 psi.

It would be uncharacteristic of a manufacturer to mismatch valve stem ratings to tire ratings, so if you do have rubber valve stems currently, then I would suspect this change occurred after the coach left the factory.

Originally Posted by brunson67 View Post
3.) If steel valve stems required, is there a brand recommended?
The valve stems need not be steel. Steel rusts, and valve stems are exposed to moisture and air from outside and inside. Most metal valve stems are made of brass, and a step up from brass is nickel plated brass, for increased corrosion resistance.

The most well-known tire valve manufacturers are Dill Air Products... and of course Schrader (a name that is to tire valves like Xerox is to photocopying or Google is to online searching or Coke is to brown colored soda pop). I don't really understand the business ownership of the Schrader tire valve brand, but you may find permutations of the Schrader name such as Schrader-Bridgeport (not Bridgestone), Schrader-Electronics, & Schrader-Pacific.

Neither Dill nor Schrader sell tire valves to the public. A couple of trusted distributors in the tire industry are Haltec Corporation and Myers Tire Supply. Haltec Corporation serves the most severe tire applications imaginable... mineral mining, heavy civil infrastructure, military, aviation, Caterpillar.

I mention this supplier serving severe commercial applications because brass tire valves are readily available on eBay, Amazon, Alibaba, MadeInChina, and from an uncountable number of resellers who buy low priced cheaply made products from copycat manufacturers with no accountability (or scruples), and then resell those products made of mystery metal at prices just under what the real "Dill" costs.

Since you asked if there was a brand recommended (an unusual question to ask about a tire valve, a decision which many just leave to the tire shop), it seemed appropriate in response to consider the pedigree of the supplier and the market they serve, where the consequences can be more costly with failure.

Irrespective of tire valve brand, the most important considerations to keep in mind are as follows:

A) Rim Hole diameter. I'm going to guess that yours is 0.453" for the valve stem, but since you have a Workhorse chassis of a later vintage that could have been manufactured by International, there is a small chance you might have wheels with a 0.625" rim hole for the valve stem. The Rim Hole diameter makes a difference in terms of which valve stem part number you order or request from your tire shop when changing tires, because the sealing grommet and capture washers are sized to fill the rim hole diameter.

It makes even more of a difference with rubber snap in valve stems. With the higher probability that your wheels have a 0.453" rim hole diameter, the highest rated rubber snap in valve that I am aware of is limited to 80 psi (TR600 and TR602). To utilize the TR800 rubber snap in valve stem, rated at 100 psi, requires a 0.625" rim hole diameter for the valve stem. That is why I allow for the slight chance that you might have the larger rim hole diameter, because your post suggests that you believe you have rubber valve stems, and it seems improbable that a tire shop would fit TR600/602 snap in rubber stems rated to 80 psi with 19.5" tires that are rated to 110 psi.

Yet if you had load range F tires, with a maximum inflation pressure of 95 psi, then a TR800 HP snap in rubber valve stem rated at 100 psi would be an appropriate fitment, even while clamp in all metal valve stems would be better.

I can't suggest any trade numbers for brass or nickel plated brass clamp in valve stems without first knowing your rim hole diameter. And for you to know it might require pulling a valve stem to measure, and by that time, you likely are already at the tire shop having them do that for you. So go to a good truck tire shop who will know what they are doing, and insist on all metal clamp in valve stems if you don't aleady have them.

If you DO already have metal clamp in valve stems, then the only thing you might want to change is the grommet. The valve stems will not need changing. A new valve core inside of the stems is also recommended.

An additional consideration to keep in mind if you do not have all metal valve stems and have to buy them, is the angle of your wheel disc. Some wheels favor pre bent valve stems, to improve the access through the hand hole of the outer dual wheel for inflators and gauges. Some wheels in the 19.5" size do better with 23 degree bends in the valve stem, clocked away from the wheel disc.

Originally Posted by brunson67 View Post
4.) I need new wheel simulators, is there a better quality brand?
Hard to know without knowing the quality brand you currently have.

But rather than talk about brand, we can talk about mounting style.

There are two basic styles of stainless steel wheel simulators...

A) Simulators that hammer on and pry off like hubcap from the 1960's

B) Simulators that bolt on and off, using cab nuts that screw on to the exposed threads of the wheel studs left remaining after the lug nuts are torqued.

I highly recommend the "B" style of wheels sims, that bolt on. Much easier to mount. Much easier to take off. Less harmful to the wheel.

The "A" style that has to be hammered on and pryed off has sharp pawls that dig into the wheel rim, cutting away the paint and electrodeposited primer, creating a constellation of corrosion sites for the raw exposed steel that it cuts into to stay on the wheel.

PhoenixUSA (although not made in USA) is one brand of wheel simulator that I know uses the "B" style bolt on/off mounting method recommended.
Fleetwood Tioga 19A Class C on Ford E-350 Cutaway DRW 138" WB
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Old 12-01-2022, 01:21 PM   #8
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Never install a "rubber" snap in valve stem on a motor home, even the "high pressure" ones of the best quality are only rated to a maximum of 80PSI. Those 19.5s should probably be run at a minimum pressure of about 90 PSI. Big Blue Runs 105psi front and 100 psi rear. I only check my pressures with a gauge every couple of months, the rest of the time it's the old truckers ball peen hammer thump. I can hear the howls of disbelief, I'm a little different, when we are on the road and rolling, whenever we stop I do a walk around with an infrared thermometer and check my tire temps and hub temps and brake discs sometimes on all the tires I have on the ground including DW's Van if I'm pulling a trailer and she is chasing. This way I don't have to mess with valve stem caps, wonder how accurate the gauge is, etc., and I get a health check on the brakes and bearings and can catch a problem before it becomes a major event.
Dave & Kandi & Indica the Chorkie pup "Big Blue"
2001 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30D w/ 2nd slide
2000 P32 7.4 4L80E wide track J71 18/21K
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Old 12-03-2022, 11:49 AM   #9
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The OP's profile lists a 2008 Fleetwood Fiesta, so it's a familiar Workhorse chassis model. It surely already has metal valve stems, but if for some reason it does not, metal valves should be installed on the new tires.

New simulators (what happened to the old ones?) should be the type that attach with a nut (see Ollie's reply, type B). UltraRV specializes in Workhorse stuff - they will have a good replacement.

Hercules are decent tires, but also consider Sumitomo, Hankook, & Kumho, all quality tires at attractive prices.

TPMS systems have become commodities and you will get recommendations for each persons favorite brand. TST, Tire Minder and EEZ RV are popular. Some people prefer a dash-mounted display, while others prefer a phone app via Bluetooth.
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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Old 12-08-2022, 03:51 PM   #10
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 92
Hi all, sorry for the delay, I am just starting to feel better after getting covid, been locked up in my bedroom so I didn't get the rest of the family sick.

I did confirm, I have metal valve stems. So now it's a matter of choosing what TPMS to buy, and what tires. Gary, I will definitely take your advice and look into the other tires you recommended. For the simulators, I curbed the passenger front one, and I haven't been able to find just one. They are the ones held on with the secondary lug nut
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Old 12-08-2022, 05:54 PM   #11
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Since a few mid-tier, lower cost tire brands were already mentioned, it seems appropriate to list a few tires that might be considered "top tier", so as to provide some keyword search terms for comparative review.

Tire brands are not listed in order of recommendation. Rather, they are listed alphabetically by brand, and always include tire model number, as these brands each make several tires in this size, but not all those tires are listed below.

The list is further segregated by axle / application.


Bridgestone R238
Michelin XZE (Recently Renamed to Agilis HD Z)
Goodyear Endurance RSA ULT 19.5"
Toyo M143
Toyo M154 SmartWay


Bridgestone M704
Firestone Transforce AT2
Goodyear Fuel Max RSA ULT 19.5"
Toyo M920a


Bridgestone M724
Goodyear Fuel Max RSD ULT 19.5"
Michelin XDS2 3PMSF
Toyo M655

Other tire brands to consider are Continental and Yokohama, which some might consider as in a tier above Hercules, Hankook, and Kumho, but not quite rising to the upper echelons of Michelin, Goodyear, Bridgestone, and Toyo.
Fleetwood Tioga 19A Class C on Ford E-350 Cutaway DRW 138" WB
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