Tired of fighting the levelling issue...what plastic blocks are good for Class A's?

[permitwriter]

I use the orange plastic blocks. They're fine on pavement but can get damaged on gravel. This thread gave me an idea. I have a thick rubber pick-up bed mat and will cut squares to fit under & on top of the plastic blocks.

My levelling instructions don't say "don't lift the wheels off the ground". But they do say "the wheels must be supported". So, if the wheels are off the ground after levelling, I put it back down, drive up on blocks and re-level. What a pain. Level sites are the best.

I can't leave it unlevel. On the phone, Winnebago was adamant that the coach be level on all 4 jacks before I operate the slides. They even picked my # off the caller ID and called me back to make sure I got it. It's got a heavy 24' full body slide.

Contrary to popular belief, you may have a "down" button and not know it. I have a Power Gear system & I discovered that, if you are in manual mode and push the "Retract All Jacks" button, the jacks retract only as long as you are pressing the button. So I just press the button momentarily and the jacks drop just a little. I can then raise those that need to come back up.

I'm with those who don't like the auto level. I have a Level-Mate Pro and do it manually. Calibration instructions for the Level-Mate say to get the coach as level as possible with the slides out, retract the slides, then calibrate. The slides are unbalanced enough on my coach that they tilt it a little when extended. So that method is perfect for anal idiots like myself who think it has to be perfect.

[EdInArk]

Originally Posted by TimmyB

I'd still like it to be not off the ground.

When we had our class A and wound up with a wheel off the ground we lowered it back down and pulled up on enough plastic blocks to level again and have that wheel carrying some weight.

I know the jacks will hold the weight, but ours were inboard of the wheels making at least a 2' narrower footprint. It was simply more solid with the weight carried on 4 wheels + 4 jacks.

We could also level lower by leveling manually. Automatic leveling, for some reason only known to the programmers, always started by raising the low side first then leveling from there. I could actually level it quicker manually than the automatic took doing its carnival ride impressions.

[JeffAZ]

These are excellent jack pads or tire levellers that I have used for many years, much sturdier that the "lego" ones. They are stackable and I have 8 of them. I think the manufacturer just needs a more inspiring name for these indestructible beauties than just "Utility Pads".
https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Plast...ebeb43624ea4e0

[UP2LATE]

We have a DP so it's pretty heavy, especially on the duals. Promptly crushed all of the plastic leveling pads (yellow and heavy-duty gray) on our first couple of trips. We use the 12X14 Hush Pads now. They are basically recycled tires and are practically indestructible. They are heavy at 11 lbs each. Found them at Canadian Tire on the way to Alaska for about 1/2 the price on Amazon. They are also sold at Camping World. I have 6 so I can adjust to just about any site. I first use level mate pro to get the best spot within reason. That tool will tell me which wheel(s) need additional height. After that I put the hush pads in front of the tires and drive up on them. The wife spots the centering. I like that they have built in slots for handles. I can grab that slot with the awning pole for easy retrieval. Note: Always be sure the tire is completely on any sort of leveling pad to reduce stress on the tire and sidewall. The duals need to be supported evenly, so I always use 2 pads side-by-side when supporting those.

[joshjack]

So do you need to put something under a tag axle too?

[NXR]

Originally Posted by joshjack

So do you need to put something under a tag axle too?

If the tag axle is needed to safely support the weight when driving, as it usually is, yes.

The same with needing something under each rear tire on the same side.

Otherwise you risk way overloading the tires that still touch the ground. For example, if each rear tire is carrying 7,000 pounds (because the total rear axle weight is 28,000 pounds), then putting blocks or ramps under just one rear tire means that tire (and associated parts like the wheel studs) is now supporting up to 14,000 pounds while the tire next to it supports zero pounds.

It's the same when you get a rear flat and you're waiting for roadside assistance. If it's safe to do so, put the jacks down a bit to try and remove some of the weight from the remaining tire that is now supporting 100% of the weight on that side instead of 50%.

Make sense?

Please hold the comments about how you never put blocks under all rear tires on the same side and you've never had a blowout unless you also include the actual weights on each tire and the math to validate your position. And tell other people how to do it safely all the time.

Just because you can, and have, does not mean you should.

Ray

[CWSWine]

Originally Posted by NXR

If the tag axle is needed to safely support the weight when driving, as it usually is, yes.

The same with needing something under each rear tire on the same side.


Ray

Are you saying not to lift your tag axle to doing low speed turns and backing because it overloads you axles/tires?

[RoadTrip2084]

Originally Posted by NXR

If the tag axle is needed to safely support the weight when driving, as it usually is, yes.

The same with needing something under each rear tire on the same side.

Otherwise you risk way overloading the tires that still touch the ground. For example, if each rear tire is carrying 7,000 pounds (because the total rear axle weight is 28,000 pounds), then putting blocks or ramps under just one rear tire means that tire (and associated parts like the wheel studs) is now supporting up to 14,000 pounds while the tire next to it supports zero pounds.

It's the same when you get a rear flat and you're waiting for roadside assistance. If it's safe to do so, put the jacks down a bit to try and remove some of the weight from the remaining tire that is now supporting 100% of the weight on that side instead of 50%.

Make sense?

Please hold the comments about how you never put blocks under all rear tires on the same side and you've never had a blowout unless you also include the actual weights on each tire and the math to validate your position. And tell other people how to do it safely all the time.

Just because you can, and have, does not mean you should.

Ray

If you have your jacks down they will support the bulk of the weight of the coach, no need to also have the tag axle supported in that case, just the driving wheels.

[UP2LATE]

Not to sidetrack the discussion... but discussing where to chock the wheels is important since having the wheels on levelers makes this sometimes difficult.

I use the chocks to keep the RV from moving around during setup and takedown and as a second level of safety. Once the leveling jacks are lowered the unit is not moving anywhere. I would like to think the chocks keep the leveling jacks from additional stress (forward or backward) as they are lowered or raised.

Also, I took the RV to the shop last month to have the main unit for the Air Force One repaired. The tech noted that the unit was located in the front of the coach instead of the back where it should be. I guess the distance from the unit to the connector on the hitch needs to be short as possible. He started to relocate it to the back and noticed that the air brakes are only on the front tires. Therefore, the unit had to be located in the front. I had always thought the duals had the air brakes. Evidently on my coach all six wheels have hydraulic brakes. Only the front tires have the emergency air brakes. Given that new information I will need to make sure I keep the front tires securely on the ground and/or leveling pads. I will also need to chock the tires where there are no leveling pads. I am going to have the air brake configuration verified at the chassis shop next month.

This may not apply in your situation.

[FL420]

Originally Posted by UP2LATE

Not to sidetrack the discussion... but discussing where to chock the wheels is important since having the wheels on levelers makes this sometimes difficult.



I use the chocks to keep the RV from moving around during setup and takedown and as a second level of safety. Once the leveling jacks are lowered the unit is not moving anywhere. I would like to think the chocks keep the leveling jacks from additional stress (forward or backward) as they are lowered or raised.



Also, I took the RV to the shop last month to have the main unit for the Air Force One repaired. The tech noted that the unit was located in the front of the coach instead of the back where it should be. I guess the distance from the unit to the connector on the hitch needs to be short as possible. He started to relocate it to the back and noticed that the air brakes are only on the front tires. Therefore, the unit had to be located in the front. I had always thought the duals had the air brakes. Evidently on my coach all six wheels have hydraulic brakes. Only the front tires have the emergency air brakes. Given that new information I will need to make sure I keep the front tires securely on the ground and/or leveling pads. I will also need to chock the tires where there are no leveling pads. I am going to have the air brake configuration verified at the chassis shop next month.



This may not apply in your situation.

Something doesn't sound right. My 2005 Monaco Knight does not have hydraulic brakes and the Emergency/Parking air/spring brakes are only on the rear axle. [emoji848]
[emoji40][emoji382][emoji382]... [emoji382][emoji40][emoji106]

[CWSWine]

Originally Posted by UP2LATE

Not to sidetrack the discussion... but discussing where to chock the wheels is important since having the wheels on levelers makes this sometimes difficult.

I use the chocks to keep the RV from moving around during setup and takedown and as a second level of safety. Once the leveling jacks are lowered the unit is not moving anywhere. I would like to think the chocks keep the leveling jacks from additional stress (forward or backward) as they are lowered or raised.

Also, I took the RV to the shop last month to have the main unit for the Air Force One repaired. The tech noted that the unit was located in the front of the coach instead of the back where it should be. I guess the distance from the unit to the connector on the hitch needs to be short as possible. He started to relocate it to the back and noticed that the air brakes are only on the front tires. Therefore, the unit had to be located in the front. I had always thought the duals had the air brakes. Evidently on my coach all six wheels have hydraulic brakes. Only the front tires have the emergency air brakes. Given that new information I will need to make sure I keep the front tires securely on the ground and/or leveling pads. I will also need to chock the tires where there are no leveling pads. I am going to have the air brake configuration verified at the chassis shop next month.

This may not apply in your situation.

I was told during PDI that the air chuck in the front was there for towing. The tow trucks hooks into it and pressurize the system and releases the air briakes for towing. Some use to air tires also.

[TimmyB]

Originally Posted by UP2LATE

Not to sidetrack the discussion...

I think you're a little late for that. This discussion is WAY off the rails from where it started.

[Jchemie]

Seen too many of those yellow plastic leveling blocks under the wheels of 15 ton+ class A’s. Bent, destroyed, sunk in the ground. Would never use those, a couple of cut 2” x 6” boards do the trick. Cheaper and no big loss if you forget to pick them up when you leave.

[Ecuador Dave]

Originally Posted by mr.tommy

Your leveling system is to LEVEL the coach and keep it stable, not raise it up where the tires are off the ground. I know some people do that but they shouldn't for many reasons.

As far as good blocks to put under the tires for a heavy coach use these (below). By using these, you won't have to extend your jacks so far. it's easier on the leveling springs and you can use them in a ramp formation if need be to run the coach up onto. They can also be used under the dually's the same way. There are many times when I park one side leans to one side or the other a little. In those cases, I just use these blocks under the dually's and the front tire on the side that needs a little lifting to get level. I also use wooden blocks under my leveling jacks and always level manually. The blocks I linked to are some tough blocks, light weight and store really easy. I have a 22K chassis motorhome.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T36KG42...street_dp_vv_d

SCORE!!! I just picked these up these up. Iam still looking to add the redtype of hard polytype that can be ether laid on the side flat or as a rocker wedge device. I dont recall the name....something jax..