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Old 01-06-2017, 12:46 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
RE "H" rated. Don't forget it is the air not the tire that carries the load. You will only get H capacity if you run H inflations. Have you confirmed your actual loads? If not "4 corner" do you know your actual axle loading?

Yes you have been lucky with your 16+ year old tires.

Be sure to read the "Why Tires Fail" post on this forum if you want to be a bit more informed about tires.
I have the Toyo M-154 H-rated 16 ply rated and I could not ask for a better ride. These tires give me peace of mind which I did not have with the Michelin XRV tires. Even though I never have had a blow out with the XRV tires I had before, but they started checking really bad on the side walls which really made me nervous. The Toyo's give me the same good ride, so I really like the Toyo's because of the H rating. Mine are the 22.5 265x75
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Old 01-06-2017, 01:00 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by moon12 View Post
I just purchased new Mich's and have 400miles on them.

My old coach went from a "dream" to drive to a "nightmare"

I've been driving my 2000 Holiday Rambler "Admiral" for three years and put 20,000miles on the Goodyear tires that came with it (fronts were G670 - 6yr old, back were G159 - 8 yr old when I bought the coach) absolutely no cracks or checking.

I just read so much about running old tires that "look good" but "fail" that I bit the bullet and sprung for 6 new 245 70R 19.5" LR "H"
Michelin XZE's (Goodyear's were LR G)

My coach feels like the frame is broken! These tires feel like they are made of "Jello" My steering went from solid confident corrections to an unbelievably mushy, dangerous, wondering, piece of crap!

Someone following me would think I was drunk!

I pulled over into the first rest area after about 40 miles, and fully expected to find a flat on the rear. The tires were hot and my Gauge read 120 lbs on all four rears.
I can't see any damage to my anti sway bar.
The dealer suggested that I raise the cold PSI to 120# and also that I'm just not used to driving on tires with full tread.
I had the pressure raised and it improved enough that I got home safe (400miles) but I know that if I was driving in any kind of high winds on these Northern Ontario hwys (2 lanes) I'd be in big trouble.

Has anyone else experienced this kind of problem?
In some of their literature Michelin says it can take up to 30,000 miles for the tires to "break in" and give the best mileage and steering. I know our '02 DSDP steered worse when I went from 275/70 tires allt he way around to 315/70's on the front. 275/70's on the rear and 9" Alcoa rims all the way around. Should probably have had a front end/thrust alignment done due to the tire/wheel change. It wasn't bad, just wasn't as good as the original setup.
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:04 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
. You will only get H capacity if you run H inflations. Have you confirmed your actual loads? If not "4 corner" do you know your actual axle loading?
Never weighed it but I know it has 5000 lbs capacity over its dry weight. With approx 1000 in fuel and water weight that leaves me 4000 lbs for crockpots, cast-iron dutch-ovens and other stuff my wife thinks is essential. I should look for a scale and weigh the corners. The new tires are set at 95PSI.

I inspected the old tires after removal and they still looked new. The installer said there was no cracking, bubbling or signs or separation. But they said I was lucky that I did not have a blowout too.
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Old 01-07-2017, 02:01 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
In some of their literature Michelin says it can take up to 30,000 miles for the tires to "break in" and give the best mileage and steering. I know our '02 DSDP steered worse when I went from 275/70 tires allt he way around to 315/70's on the front. 275/70's on the rear and 9" Alcoa rims all the way around. Should probably have had a front end/thrust alignment done due to the tire/wheel change. It wasn't bad, just wasn't as good as the original setup.

I believe the "break-in" for tires is closer to 100 - 300 miles based on actual test experience.
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:43 AM   #61
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I thought date codes were 4 numbers long ???

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But my have saved me more. Just looked at tires and they have a 099 date code! Worse yet they are Goodyear G159s - I found this article which is scary. Goodyear G159 Tire Failures on RVs Finally Dragged Into the Public Eye | Safety Research & Strategies, Inc.
I have been ignoring the tires on my 1999 coach. I bought it three years ago with under 35k miles and the tires look great. I just got back from a 200 mile desert run without any problems.

Here is my quote from Wayne Miller mobile Tires near San Diego for 6 new size 245/70/19.5 installed:
Hercules $1575
Kelly $1863
Hankook $2100
Toyo $2242
I am going with the Hankook AH11 16 ply based on positive forum reviews. I wanted the heavy H rated tire because we carry a lot.
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Old 01-08-2017, 10:47 PM   #62
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Original tires on my 99

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I thought date codes were 4 numbers long ???
Yes, unless they are pre 2000

For tires manufactured before the year 2000
The date of manufacture is the last three digits of the code. The first two digits refer to the week within that year. For example, if the last 3 digits are 022, it means that the tire was manufactured in the second week of the year, and the year is the second year of the decade. This is where it gets confusing -- there's no universal identifier that signifies which decade, so in this example the tire could have been manufactured in 1982 or 1992. Some tires do have a small triangle following the DOT code to indicate the 1990s.
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:30 AM   #63
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...............:bang head:

...............:conf used:

...............

...............

...............opcorn :


I'm just confused
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:23 PM   #64
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...............
Hopefully the OP likes the Michelins that he bought.
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