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04-27-2019, 05:00 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 238
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Tool to loosen wheel simulators
Looking to finally set up my tire pressure system. It’s pretty tight to put the sensors on with the wheel simulators on. What do you use to loosen wheel simulator lug nuts? I believe two lugs on each simulator are real.
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04-27-2019, 05:16 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 1,402
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I believe it is 1 1/8 inch socket.
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04-27-2019, 05:17 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 153
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Two nuts on each simulator are merely caps that secure the simulator to the wheel. The actual wheel lugs remain underneath, torqued to hold the wheel on the hub. The simulator "lugs" are marked with an indentation. They require a larger socket to remove than the socket used to loosen the real wheel lugs that actually hold the wheel on the coach. These "fake" lugs should not be difficult to remove, as they only secure the simulator, not in any way the wheel itself.
You may need to buy a big honking socket to fit over the fake lugs to remove them. My coach came with a cheesy simulator lug removal tool that is worthless. I use a big 'ol socket on my 1/2 inch ratchet to remove them which provides better access to the tire valves for inflation or for installing the TPMS transmitters. Hope this helps, and maybe I'll see you down the road.
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04-27-2019, 06:28 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 48
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Mine were 1 1/8 as well
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04-27-2019, 06:43 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 4,988
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Typical simulator removal tool.
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04-27-2019, 07:55 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bahamaniac
I believe it is 1 1/8 inch socket.
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Good to know
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04-27-2019, 07:58 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notayurt
Two nuts on each simulator are merely caps that secure the simulator to the wheel. The actual wheel lugs remain underneath, torqued to hold the wheel on the hub. The simulator "lugs" are marked with an indentation. They require a larger socket to remove than the socket used to loosen the real wheel lugs that actually hold the wheel on the coach. These "fake" lugs should not be difficult to remove, as they only secure the simulator, not in any way the wheel itself.
You may need to buy a big honking socket to fit over the fake lugs to remove them. My coach came with a cheesy simulator lug removal tool that is worthless. I use a big 'ol socket on my 1/2 inch ratchet to remove them which provides better access to the tire valves for inflation or for installing the TPMS transmitters. Hope this helps, and maybe I'll see you down the road.
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Got it. Yeah the stock lug tool is useless. Thanks!
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04-27-2019, 08:00 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robburns76
Mine were 1 1/8 as well
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04-27-2019, 10:38 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW OREGON
Posts: 523
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The removal tool which came with our Newmar works fine for removing the fake lugs. Not sure why others wouldn't also.
__________________
Ron in NW Oregon
2017 Ventana 3436
2021 Chevrolet Spark LT
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04-28-2019, 09:39 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majicchuck
Got it. Yeah the stock lug tool is useless. Thanks!
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I've seen these comments a few times on here.
I've been using the stock tool, pictured in grindstone01's reply, for 16 tears. Many times because I have no extensions and therefore have to remove the rear simulators every time I check air pressure.
In my opinion, I think the problem is people wanting to torque the simulator nuts down too much. They certainly don't need to be torqued to the point of requiring a 6 point socket and breaker bar to r&r.
__________________
03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 with the 8.1 and 4L85-E
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04-28-2019, 11:26 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 1,402
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The problem with the factory tool is that they are made of soft metal. If someone cranked down on the nuts the tool will bend and give. You really don't need a lot of torque on the nuts. But if someone over tightened them the soft tool tends to twist and can't loosen the nuts.
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04-28-2019, 01:01 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Grapevine, Tx
Posts: 5,402
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My Dicor simulator nuts are 1 9/16. Got the socket at NAPA for $25. Well worth it.
I think the previous tire installer used a big air gun to put them on.
__________________
2004 Fleetwood Southwind 32VS W20
ReadyBrute Elite towing a 2017 Ford Edge Sport
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04-28-2019, 01:11 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,883
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1 1/8 here. Have either 4 or 5 to tighten.
__________________
Larry & Sheree & KD the CAT
2009 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30SFS Lewis County, Wa.
USN 1964-68, USS LEXINGTON CVS-16
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04-28-2019, 10:46 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bahamaniac
The problem with the factory tool is that they are made of soft metal. If someone cranked down on the nuts the tool will bend and give. You really don't need a lot of torque on the nuts. But if someone over tightened them the soft tool tends to twist and can't loosen the nuts.
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And I did have this happen one time. Tire shop replaced tires and installed the simulators while I wasn't looking. I'm betting they used an impact because it took a breaker bar and 6 point socket for me to remove them. Thing is, it only took a fraction of a second for me to realize what was going on. I didn't break the stock T-handled tool by continuing to try and use it.
Just like oil filters, I hand tighten enough to keep them from going anywhere but at the same time, not so tight that I'm not able to remove by hand at replacement time.
__________________
03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 with the 8.1 and 4L85-E
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