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Old 02-27-2021, 06:59 AM   #15
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Nice Job Busskipper.

I got a quote from RV Clearcoat Paint & Body as recommended by Steve N Sal, I live about 45 minutes away. $1800 + a couple of hundred if I change color.
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Old 02-27-2021, 07:04 AM   #16
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Been there, did all of the above except hiring it out.

Clear coat and paint are not cheap but you can buy it in small amounts but might want to consider a quart for future use.

You can get automotive paint made and put in rattle cans if you want to go that route and is satisfactory for that area. It is out of sight mostly and does not need to be perfect.

Simple painting is not magic but watching a youtube will help for sure. The prep time is what is boring. But you need to take the time.

There are tons of previous posts on this issue and using the google search box above will send you to them. (The little green box).

On my 08 HR the paint codes are on the drivers seat pedestal. The paint codes are also in some file locations. Trying to match it perfectly is a bit difficult but Sherwin Williams may have the cross codes for the Diamont paint.

I have painted front and back caps and along the top edges. I used a cheap sprayer from Harbor Freight with a crummy compressor that I had to be patient with. In some tight spaces I used a Harbor Freight air brush.

After a bit over 5 years the front cap looks like the clear is peeling again a bit. The front faces the East/South and gets beat up in Central Florida so I can't blame the paint.
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Old 02-27-2021, 08:06 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by timjet View Post
My '07 coach top cap is looking a little "embarrassing". I guess the diamond shield is peeling off. Keeping in mind this is an '07 coach and it doesn't have to look new, what's an inexpensive way to fix this.
Just for sake of this discussion - Yhe Mission is "Inexpensive" - but let me say - that we can all do what we think is Best.

That said if we think about this for a bit - the "Original" paint job ($10-12K) lasted, usually if stored outside about 10 + - years - many of us might think that was really not a great value, but it is standard for the RV's being discussed.

My Brain says maybe not such a Great Value - so why would I be Happy to Pay $1,800 - 2,800 to repair something that failed - with the same similar solution so it can fail again in say 8-10 years, and possibly Less! -

Or for $200.00 get a stopgap solution that will last for 4-5 years, Possibly longer - - - My Money - My Time - My Decision.

Thank Goodness we can all look at the same thing and come up with different Solutions,

JMHO,

Images don't lie Not perfect but might just be what you are after
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Old 02-27-2021, 11:59 AM   #18
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Trying to skip paint color and only clear is a waste of time and effort to preserve color coat and will end poorly , especially if metallics. If you want to sand off all the clear without using primer or sealer 320 wet with some dish soap will work well. From there smooth it use 360 to 400 Slightly worn 400 is finest we would spray over at body shop. Rarely 600 at paint blend to unpainted area or clearing over sanded fresh paint or clear to flatten strip edge . Not to step on toes but 1000-1500 grit is for pre buffing not pre paint scuff or trying to remove clear.
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Old 02-27-2021, 12:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busskipper View Post
Just for sake of this discussion - Yhe Mission is "Inexpensive" - but let me say - that we can all do what we think is Best.

That said if we think about this for a bit - the "Original" paint job ($10-12K) lasted, usually if stored outside about 10 + - years - many of us might think that was really not a great value, but it is standard for the RV's being discussed.

My Brain says maybe not such a Great Value - so why would I be Happy to Pay $1,800 - 2,800 to repair something that failed - with the same similar solution so it can fail again in say 8-10 years, and possibly Less! -

Or for $200.00 get a stopgap solution that will last for 4-5 years, Possibly longer - - - My Money - My Time - My Decision.

Thank Goodness we can all look at the same thing and come up with different Solutions,

JMHO,

Images don't lie Not perfect but might just be what you are after
I have to disagree with both your posts....first, you stated that many of us didn't provide a dollar amount for the repair. That's not really possible, because every job is different and different parts of the country are more expensive to do business. When I had the roof line repainted on my Diplomat, that had serious cracks in the front cap, that cost me $2800.00 in California, twelve years ago. When I had to have my Dutch Star roof line repainted, many years later, it cost me $5000.00. Newmar paid part of that bill and part of it was me wanting the issue to not occur again in other spots, so I had the entire roof line done. The OP's recent quote is substantially less than what I paid, one of the reasons why I didn't originally post what my paint work cost.

Second, good for you for getting up there and doing your own repaint. I did the same thing on my front cap with a single stage paint. It looked good for about a year or so, but was not the quality of a professional paint job. Since it was up high, it was more tolerable. I'm very particular about how my coach looks and at some point, I gave up on chasing the peeling around the roof and had the whole roof line repainted.

Lastly, you're price comparison from 10 years ago makes no sense. A quart of milk 10 years ago was substantially less than it is now, so is paint work. Ten years ago, paint was different. Each year, especially around 2005 - 2007, when they were using water based paints, they had a LOT of issues. Paint technology has improved dramatically since then. You can also ask a paint shop to add more layers of clear, improving the durability.

It's great that you did your own repair, just like I originally did, but my standards left me disappointed with the temporary fix a couple of years later. That finally led me to having a professional repair done, something I should have done originally.
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Old 02-27-2021, 12:44 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
I have to disagree with both your posts....first, you stated that many of us didn't provide a dollar amount for the repair. That's not really possible, because every job is different and different parts of the country are more expensive to do business. When I had the roof line repainted on my Diplomat, that had serious cracks in the front cap, that cost me $2800.00 in California, twelve years ago. When I had to have my Dutch Star roof line repainted, many years later, it cost me $5000.00. Newmar paid part of that bill and part of it was me wanting the issue to not occur again in other spots, so I had the entire roof line done. The OP's recent quote is substantially less than what I paid, one of the reasons why I didn't originally post what my paint work cost.

Second, good for you for getting up there and doing your own repaint. I did the same thing on my front cap with a single stage paint. It looked good for about a year or so, but was not the quality of a professional paint job. Since it was up high, it was more tolerable. I'm very particular about how my coach looks and at some point, I gave up on chasing the peeling around the roof and had the whole roof line repainted.

Lastly, you're price comparison from 10 years ago makes no sense. A quart of milk 10 years ago was substantially less than it is now, so is paint work. Ten years ago, paint was different. Each year, especially around 2005 - 2007, when they were using water based paints, they had a LOT of issues. Paint technology has improved dramatically since then. You can also ask a paint shop to add more layers of clear, improving the durability.

It's great that you did your own repair, just like I originally did, but my standards left me disappointed with the temporary fix a couple of years later. That finally led me to having a professional repair done, something I should have done originally.
Dan,

Thanks for the Lesson in Economics, Difference was I tried to reply to what I thought was the Original request - Economical - You ..... assumed we all have similar thoughts --- none the less - with contrasting positions they should likely help the OP make his Ultimate decision.

Thanks,

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Old 02-27-2021, 01:45 PM   #21
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I really do not like clearcoat!

If you want your roof to look good for the next 25 years, sand it, prime with an epoxy primer and paint it with IMRON paint.

IMRON may be 2-3 times as expensive, but it will last. And keep its shine too.
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Old 03-03-2021, 09:27 PM   #22
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I really do not like clearcoat!

If you want your roof to look good for the next 25 years, sand it, prime with an epoxy primer and paint it with IMRON paint.

IMRON may be 2-3 times as expensive, but it will last. And keep its shine too.

They still make Imron paint......???

I thought it went the way of the dinosaur due to EPA rules.......

For many years, all Hatteras Yachts, after they were popped from the mold, had the topsides gel coat painted over with Imron at the factory... That stuff was bulletproof...!!!

I bought a 1980 46' Hatteras in 1999. It started its life in the Gulf around Sarasota,FL. I brought it to SoCal and ran it out of San Diego until I finally sold it in 2016.... That's 36 years sitting in ocean waters...

When I sold it, there were some "wear" marks where the paint was wearing through.... but the paint that was there, was STILL looking great...

I repainted the non-skid on the decks, but the hull & house sides were rinsed after every use, washed at least once every two weeks, and once a year I used a special sealant designed for Imron. I can't believe I forgot the name, I bought enough of it over the years!

I'd paint any vehicle I wanted to last, and look good, with Imron if I could....
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:00 PM   #23
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They still make Imron paint......???

I thought it went the way of the dinosaur due to EPA rules.......



I'd paint any vehicle I wanted to last, and look good, with Imron if I could....
Yep, still got it up here in good old Canada! Don't tell your EPA!


Our bodyshop at Peterbilt tried to go the water based crap for a while, but it's back to good old Imron! Pricey, but the best.
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