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Old 09-07-2018, 09:19 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by National2003 View Post
I ordered a charge kit from road master and installed it; But think I do need to install a dioed to keep the toed form discharging my coach battery.
If you install a diode to prevent current flow from coach you defeat the purpose of the charge line. Usually if diode present it prevents current flow from toad to MH.

Some have installed self resetting breakers to avoid having to replace fuses or reset the breaker... Not a good idea as I have seen reports of toad catching fire when the breaker kept resetting with a short... overheated and eventuslly started a fire... lost the toad!!!
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Old 09-08-2018, 08:23 PM   #16
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All you need here is a wire. Thatís it.

No diode.

No ďcharge kitĒ (whatever that is.)

Just a wire to the towed battery. Thatís it. Nothing else is needed.

You can add a fuse if you want, but even thatís not necessary.
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:24 AM   #17
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I agree with the comments about you only need a wire from the coach battery to the tow vehicle battery. I do recommend two fuses be placed, one at the coach battery and one at the tow vehicle battery. These protect the circuit incase the charge wire accidentally gets damaged anywhere along its length and touches ground.

Diodes are not needed

My Freightliner Chassis already has the perfect "charge" wire installed all the way to the plug at the back of the coach.
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:28 AM   #18
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All you need here is a wire. Thatís it.

No diode.

No ďcharge kitĒ (whatever that is.)

Just a wire to the towed battery. Thatís it. Nothing else is needed.

You can add a fuse if you want, but even thatís not necessary.
Wouldn't you need a diode to prevent the coach from running down the TOAD battery in the event someone left a 12V light or something on in the MH.
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:30 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by A Traveler View Post
All you need here is a wire. Thatís it.

No diode.

No ďcharge kitĒ (whatever that is.)

Just a wire to the towed battery. Thatís it. Nothing else is needed.

You can add a fuse if you want, but even thatís not necessary.
Thank you

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Old 09-09-2018, 08:45 AM   #20
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Here is how to do it safely, this is just pulling things together that is in the thread ...

In the RV there must be a fuse or circuit breaker feeding the 12 volt pin on the RV towed vehicle connector. 15 amp max if 14 gauge wire is feeding the 12 volt pin on the RV connector, 20 amp max if 12 gauge wire is feeding the 12 volt pin on the RV connector.

In the RV the connection from the RV connector ground pin to chassis ground needs to be at least the same gauge as the wire feeding the 12 volt pin.

In the towed vehicle there must be a fuse or circuit breaker at the towed battery end of the +12 volt charge wire, 15 amp max if 14 gauge wire is used / 20 amp max if 12 gauge wire is used.

In the towed vehicle the connection from the towing vehcile connector ground pin to chassis ground needs to be at least the same gauge as the wire feeding the 12 volt pin.

= = = = =

If you don't fuse both sides with a fuse that will protect the wiring you risk a catastrophic failure. I personally have seen what happens if you do like post #16 suggests with no fusing. The charge wire rubbed thru between the towed vehicle's battery and the towed vehicle's connector and with no fuse in the RV or towed the wiring inside the RV and the wiring in the cable between the RV and the towed overheated and melted the entire cable. Cost her several hundred dollars to repair the damage, all for lack of a $ 5 fuse and fuse holder.

I don't use an isolation diode in my RV to towed wiring charge line, I agree with post #15. I just unplug the towed cable from the RV if I park overnight with the toad connected. Unplugging the cable addresses the concern about power back feeding into the RV and running down the toad battery.

Do at same time I turn off and remove the key from the toad, turn off the brake buddy, and lock the toad if I park overnight with toad connected.
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Old 09-09-2018, 12:10 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by A Traveler View Post
All you need here is a wire. Thatís it.

No diode.

No ďcharge kitĒ (whatever that is.)

Just a wire to the towed battery. Thatís it. Nothing else is needed.

You can add a fuse if you want, but even thatís not necessary.
Would you mind expounding on your comments a bit? Iím particularly interested in understanding why a diode isnít required when every kit I know of includes one and most commenters here recommend one.
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:10 PM   #22
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Would you mind expounding on your comments a bit? Iím particularly interested in understanding why a diode isnít required when every kit I know of includes one and most commenters here recommend one.


Who's got $3.95 for a diode? Where you supposed to get that kinda money?
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:13 PM   #23
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...Iím particularly interested in understanding why a diode isnít required when every kit I know of includes one and most commenters here recommend one.

Every kit includes a diode because the snake oil salesmen who sell these useless things know that most people donít understand electricity and they can make a few more bucks on the sale, thatís why.

In most coaches, the 12 volt line to the 7-pin connector turns on and off with the ignition. When the ignition is off, your coach and towed battery are disconnected anyway!

Even if your 12 volt line in the 7-pin connector is hot all the time, when is the last time you left something on in the motor home that completely drained the coach battery? With the coach and towed batteries connected together like this, youíve got somewhere around 220 amp hours of capacity. Thatís enough battery to run a 10 amp load for 22 hours!

Even if you did run the coach battery down, all you have drained is the COACH battery. Push the BOOST button and use the HOUSE batteries to start the engine.

One more critical point about a diode that the snake oil salesmen conveniently donít tell you. A diode drops the voltage by .7 volts. If your charging circuit delivers the typical 13.8 volts, only 13.1 volts reaches the toad battery. Thatís not enough voltage to keep the towed battery properly charged anyway!

See why they are just snake oil?
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:33 PM   #24
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"In most coaches, the 12 volt line to the 7-pin connector turns on and off with the ignition. When the ignition is off, your coach and towed battery are disconnected anyway!"

When you shutoff the key in the coach, coach power is removed from the pin, but without the diode, toad power remains at the same pin. The idea of the diode is to unpower everything downstream of itself. The diode unpowers the toad connector, the same as the coach key unpowers the coach connector. Without the diode, the coach connector is powered by the toad battery regardless of the coach key. I guess you can unplug, but my$3.95 investment says I don't have to.

"One more critical point about a diode that the snake oil salesmen conveniently donít tell you. A diode drops the voltage by .7 volts. If your charging circuit delivers the typical 13.8 volts, only 13.1 volts reaches the toad battery. Thatís not enough voltage to keep the towed battery properly charged anyway! "

An old saying goes like this: "If it's stupid but it works, it ain't stupid." Voltage drop, schmoltage drop, it works. My toad brake system used to eat my toad battery, it doesn't anymore, diode and all. Yeah, I bet in the easy business environment of RV parts and sales, snake oil sells well. That's why Monaco is owned by someone other than Monaco and Safari is gone.
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