Transitioning into the future - Sticks and Bricks and RV Garage, Possible Combo?

[Busskipper]

Originally Posted by marjoa

We are FTers and here's our thoughts and plans.

Oh I'm sure others have thought about it and have done it...but no not us. We are DONE, FINISHED buying, maintaining, paying taxes on, cleaning, yard work, and all the rest that comes with owning a home. We don't want anything to do with another house. As we get older we want less work to do not more work and we want our money to go further to do the things we want. Not dump it into another big project.

We have already bought a nice permanent RV site with FHU's for our winter spot in RGV and now over the next few years as we travel we'll be looking for a similar site up north. We kinda have our eyes on Maine, NH or Vermont areas but we're open to other states as well. When the traveling party is over down the road, we'll have a RV in both locations. Both will have a nice metal covering over them. One location to spend winter & early spring months and one for summer & fall months and drive our car back and forth between the two.

That's our plan and we're halfway there.

Good luck on your plan.

As the DW sets the parameters - Keep her Happy - we will need to have a PITA sticks and Bricks - the Thought/Dream is to have one at the Beach that we would use in the Winter - and one near the slopes that we would use in the summer.

If the opportunity were to work out we would also rent them in the Season and use them ourselves in the off seasons.

Good Luck in your Quest as it sounds like fun.

Where I am today n the design;

[Busskipper]

Trying to find a cost on this door - https://www.bifold.com/photo-of-the-...arage-door.php -

[Ludmilla]

There are homes in the St George/Hurricane UT area with RV garages. I live in Dixie Springs in Hurricane and there are LOTS of RV garages here. I know of other developments that also have lots of RV garages. They are not everywhere but the developments exist that have lots large enough and allow them to be built.

[Ivylog]

Bifold hanger doors run around $20:sqft but that’s for something 40’ wide with a plain finish. The one above is probably twice as much/sq so $10K. It also needs 2-3’ extra headroom to operate.

I’ve built several large doors that swing on 2” pipe nipples turning in floor flanges. A cable with a turnbuckle from the top pivot to the opposite bottom corner supports the weight. The door below is made with 2X6 boards, insulation, 1/2” plywood, and Hardy planks.

[marjoa]

Originally Posted by Busskipper

Trying to find a cost on this door - https://www.bifold.com/photo-of-the-...arage-door.php -

Why wouldn't you go with just a standard metal roll up door? Something similar to below.
They come in multiple colors, sizes and with locks and could be easily adapted to your application for a whole lot cheaper.

[Skypoke]

How very timely. I've been going through the same planning. We went about it differently but the objective is the same. We live in a 3 story beach house in a pretty spectacular location so it's a bit of a hard sell to pry my wife out of here. Just before the plague started, I closed on a waterfront canal lot that I hope to do the same on.....with a little more emphasis on a shop rather than rv port. My toy herd is of the size that there's no way to put it all inside.

One thing, though, I really have an appreciation for well done design. Maybe you know the feeling, things are just right somehow in the house. Not necessarily fancy or overdone, but inherently comfortable. I'm not seeing how you will achieve this by selecting design first without having the lot. Not only aspects like access, view, but pretty dang important ones like having your windows on the proper sides of the house for the climate, which way the prevailing breeze blows from, which neighbors are the Swedish bikini team members etc. It would be a lot easier for me to just pick a stock design, and I have looked em over. Here's one I have found appealing....

https://www.architecturaldesigns.com...garage-23664jd

That's a good starting point I think. Hard to beat the craftsman style. One other thing you might want to take a look at, a book called "The not so big house." Amazon carries it. Lots of really great ideas from an excellent architect. Good luck with it!

[Ivylog]

If there’s reincarnation I’d like to come back as a architect although weatherman where you can be wrong half of the time, is in the running, but I digress. SkyP makes a good point as I’ve seen too many homes where IF they had used the mirror image of the plan, it would have taken advantage of the lot. In developing single family lots, on some I’ve dug the daylight basement so the view (not visible in the summer) is taken advantage of in the winter.

The value of the lot has bearing on the size house you should build on it. If it’s a inexpensive lot then a small house on it is correct... BUT if it’s an expensive lot (lakefront in my case) a small house, long term, is a mistake.

As I sit here somewhat sheltering in place... been out mowing some of my property, I’m glad the house is 3000 sqft. Even in a 45’, the last couple of weeks snowbirding without going out could test a marriage. With the MH bay attached, I’ve worked on several MH projects and the DW goes to it when she doesn’t have an ingredient needed for dinner.

Long term my MH bay can be converted into 800 additional sqft by putting in a false floor so it’s on the same level as the house. Electrical outlets are already at that height, plumbing is available, and shorter windows would have to be installed. It helps to have a long term perspective.

Not sure downsizing is worth it especially if you like where you live, the home is paid for, and the MH has fuel in it. Close off those areas you do not use and use the time it will take to rebuild and go traveling... this will be over eventually.

[Ivylog]

Originally Posted by marjoa

Why wouldn't you go with just a standard metal roll up door?

Because they are ugly and not insulated. They also require the ceiling to be several feet higher than necessary which when you attack it to your home becomes an issue.

[hohenwald48]

We own a place here https://www.tgoresort.com/ Look at places for sale and you might get some good ideas.

Currently we use our place here as a second (winter) home but it may soon become our primary residence.

[Busskipper]

Originally Posted by hohenwald48

We own a place here https://www.tgoresort.com/ Look at places for sale and you might get some good ideas.

Currently we use our place here as a second (winter) home but it may soon become our primary residence.

Toured the Place Years ago - Very interesting and appears to be very successful - Florida is Just too HOT for me even in the Winter.

They have so Good Basic Plans,

Thanks,

[Busskipper]

Originally Posted by Ivylog

Bifold hanger doors run around $20:sqft but that’s for something 40’ wide with a plain finish. The one above is probably twice as much/sq so $10K. It also needs 2-3’ extra headroom to operate.

I’ve built several large doors that swing on 2” pipe nipples turning in floor flanges. A cable with a turnbuckle from the top pivot to the opposite bottom corner supports the weight. The door below is made with 2X6 boards, insulation, 1/2” plywood, and Hardy planks.

Originally Posted by Ivylog

If there’s reincarnation I’d like to come back as a architect although weatherman where you can be wrong half of the time, is in the running, but I digress. SkyP makes a good point as I’ve seen too many homes where if they had used the mirror image of the plan, it would have taken advantage of the lot. In developing single family lots, on some I’ve dug the daylight basement so the view (not visible in the summer) is taken advantage of in the winter.

The value of the lot has bearing on the size house you should build on it. If it’s a inexpensive lot then a small house on it is correct... BUT if it’s an expensive lot (lakefront in my case) a small house, long term, is a mistake.

As I sit here somewhat sheltering in place... been out mowing some of my property, I’m glad the house is 3000 sq ft. Even in a 45’, the last couple of weeks snowbirding without going out could test a marriage. With the MH bay attached, I’ve worked on several MH projects and the DW goes to it when she doesn’t have an ingredient needed for dinner. Long term the MH bay can be converted into 800 additional sqft by putting in a false floor so it’s on the same level as the house. Electrical outlets are already at that height and shorter windows would have to be installed. It helps to have a long term perspective.

Dick,

Always enjoy your perspective......weatherman.. might be a stretch ... even for you. -

Now that I know you are home, maybe I could get you to take a few images of your door set up - not so much the door more of the Pipe and the workings.

The TurnBuckle would likely be All Thread and Pipe just to keep it clean, easy, used that before in a Big house I built on the water. Flange and bottom pipe would likely be poured into the Concrete, (Grease Fitting to avoid Rust?) as it would only be used seldom, did you use a wheel on the end of the door? - not sure it would require bearings but we did use a Mack truck axle once for a lazy boy in the center of a round table for 24.

I did your Dream as an Architect - in that I worked on a number of very Custom homes over the last 20-30 years, First thing I always do is Find the arc of the Sun to Locate windows and Overhangs - I'm a concept sort of Guy so as I can draw up the floorplan I do not do the final plans - I have done most of my Buildings as Custom Modular - largest, modular, was just under 8,000 sq ft largest house just over 15,000 sq ft.

That was then - Now, mission is Under 1,300 sq ft - tried 1,000 but needed larger closets - - thus the 20 X 65 house may be 14' - 16' with a bump out (Modular dimensions) and Garage - Garage would likely be on the North side as it is not living space - windows and view would favor the South with 24" overhangs deck/porch to grill on (Built one house with a 4x6 deck, off the kitchen, just for the grill). .........I could go on forever here.

Sips and Concrete walls for the garage -

Back to the Garage Doors - your doors - they would work but in My Dream they are often let open for the weather and the use of the Coach as the Guest Bedroom. would likely do as you have done and set the Garage back so the door can be opened, without concern for the wind.

Thanks for popping back into this and getting me to chase you down on the Door - even before I started this Post your door was in the options considered.

Thanks Again,

Bill

[Busskipper]

Originally Posted by Busskipper

Dick,

Always enjoy your perspective......weatherman.. might be a stretch ... even for you. -

Now that I know you are home, maybe I could get you to take a few images of your door set up - not so much the door more of the Pipe and the workings.

The TurnBuckle would likely be All Thread and Pipe just to keep it clean, easy, used that before in a Big house I built on the water. Flange and bottom pipe would likely be poured into the Concrete, (Grease Fitting to avoid Rust?) as it would only be used seldom, did you use a wheel on the end of the door? - not sure it would require bearings but we did use a Mack truck axle once for a lazy boy in the center of a round table for 24.

I did your Dream as an Architect - in that I worked on a number of very Custom homes over the last 20-30 years, First thing I always do is Find the arc of the Sun to Locate windows and Overhangs - I'm a concept sort of Guy so as I can draw up the floorplan I do not do the final plans - I have done most of my Buildings as Custom Modular - largest, modular, was just under 8,000 sq ft largest house just over 15,000 sq ft.

That was then - Now, mission is Under 1,300 sq ft - tried 1,000 but needed larger closets - - thus the 20 X 65 house may be 14' - 16' with a bump out (Modular dimensions) and Garage - Garage would likely be on the North side as it is not living space - windows and view would favor the South with 24" overhangs deck/porch to grill on (Built one house with a 4x6 deck, off the kitchen, just for the grill). .........I could go on forever here.

Sips and Concrete walls for the garage -

Back to the Garage Doors - your doors - they would work but in My Dream they are often let open for the weather and the use of the Coach as the Guest Bedroom. would likely do as you have done and set the Garage back so the door can be opened, without concern for the wind.

Thanks for popping back into this and getting me to chase you down on the Door - even before I started this Post your door was in the options considered.

Thanks Again,

Bill

Ment to add these two as thoughts for garage walls. -

https://www.eco-panels.com/

Northeast Precast | Superior Walls Foundations and Commerical Precast Products

Both easy - simple and while not the cheapest they do a good Job.

[Ivylog]

The door swings very easily once you get it moving and opens into the carport. Can leave it open or closed as needed. With a 36” exhaust fan I could run the MH’s ACs without opening the door.

Door is so well sealed with rubber flaps you can’t see anything at this point. Yes, the bottom 2” pipe nipple was set in the concrete when the floor was poured. Drilled 1/2” holes in the nipple for a piece of rebar to help anchor it in the concrete. Built the door 2X6 frame laying down and then stood it up... much like any wall. It’s easier to thread a cable through a dozen 2X6s than a rod plus, in hind sight, I would not run the cable in a straight line because the middle of the door is sagging a little, so maybe a slight curve of probably only 1” at the middle to put some upward pressure on the middle.

The top floor flange (with plenty of grease) was the hardest to bolt into the bottom of the ceiling end wall. Even with the flanges threaded down flush with the nipple it was a tight fit. Probably should have bolted them in place after standing the frame up instead of one already bolted in place. Hope that makes sense. I would not build the frame as big...only 2” smaller than the opening. 3-4” smaller would give more room to work.

It’s hard to beat the R factor of a 2X6 wood wall, especially compared to concrete. Our kids use the MH bay during the winter for cornhole tournaments. Doesn’t take much heat to make it comfortable.

PS: your body adjusts to colder or warmer temperatures not that N Fla is that warm in the winter.

[Smitty77]

Bill - Enjoying your thread, and thought process!

We have 'vacation home' in San Diego (Our former residence, before we retired and decided long term we wish to be South Dakotan's.) We've retained our now 'vacation home', so that the DW's Mom would have a place to live. And I hope she has many decades ahead (Today's her 81st Birthday, celebrating by letting her come out of her room, take off her mask, and we've given her a roll of TP and told her to go wild!!! (Strange humor is my norm, but much new fodder with this virus we're all fighting off!). It's a solid home, and while it's ~2950 SQ FT, ~1130 of that is the upstairs master retreat and office and sitting area, with a heck of a nice view of Mission Bay and the sunsets over Pacific Bay.) But that upper area can be closed off by a solid exterior door we installed at the top of the stairs. The down stairs remains a very comfortable and 'aging in place' appropriate 2 br 2ba with living & family rooms and nice outside patio onto the gardens area. The 3 car garage is attached, with a 6" step up (Easy to put in a ramp.) to gain access to the house. So the full downstairs is basically a comfortable living unit by itself. Separate Heat/AC and Water Heater for upstairs and downstairs. And solar on the roof keeps us in the positive for electric costs each year (Paid for itself in 6 1/2 years, due to the high local rates.).

We do have extended family and friends who come to visit San Diego while we are living on the road in our RV 8-9 months each year. Separate upstairs entrance makes it easy for them to come and go as they please, but they all know the MIL - so most times they just come in the front door and visit...

I mentioned that setup, as while it is not really a downsized home, it in practical living could be for a couple. Closing off the upper area, and keeping it for visitors, would not be that our of the ordinary...

So what? Is what you two have something you too could compartmentalize? You know your home, as we know our former home/vacation home... Sometimes it's better to dance with the devil you know...

Note: We do not expect to do this. Is it a practical thing for us? Maybe. But not on our current planning... Will share our current thoughts on a different response.

Like the approaches of many here, and the experience of others being shared - always helps as we all map out what we feel is best for us!

Be good, and best to all,
Smitty