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Old 11-22-2020, 10:19 AM   #1
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Tsunami Electrical Problem

Hi All. I have a question about a 2005 Forest River Tsunami 4104QS Class A motorhome (on a Freightliner chassis with a side radiator) that Iím hoping someone can help me with. I think itís an electrical issue but am not really sure. I have read several recent and older threads here and while a few somewhat describe my problem, Iím not sure I read any answers on these posts, altho there were a lot of replies, some with pictures that look nothing like my set-up.

Some work has been done on my coach over the last couple of months Ė AquaHot service, generator service, 60,000-mile service even tho the coach has just under 80,000 miles on it (this because weíve had the coach for just about a year and there were no manuals or service records to speak of), latching relay/house battery disconnect replaced, along with a couple of small, preference-type installs and upgrades.

Everything seems to be working as far as rolling down the road is concerned Ė just last Monday I travelled 350 miles from north Georgia to north Mississippi with no mechanical problems. But my question involves some of the buttons on the dash that are not working. I have attached three pix labelled 1‑Fuse Panel (ďFPĒ), 2‑Fuse Panel Legend (ďLegendĒ), and 3‑Dash Buttons (ďDBĒ). (My apologies but I cannot figure out how to post the pictures so that they're right side up.) The problems so far:

(1) no dash air/heat/defroster [no. 43 on Legend-?];

(2) the generator will not start, either (a) from the dash remote-start button (last button on right of bottom row of DB or (b) at the generator itself as the slide-out tray will not extend to get to generator;

(3) neither the driver nor passenger shades will work (2nd & 3rd buttons from left on bottom row of DB; and

(4) the DC socket on the bottom row of buttons will not work altho the one on the row above it does work (these DC sockets were both working only recently).

Of course there are many other buttons on DB that I didn't try simply because I'm not sure exactly what some of them are identifying and the last thing I wanted to do was try something that would actually shut the coach down and leave me on the side of the road. I am certainly planning to become familiar with all these buttons once the current problem is resolved.

It is my understanding that when the key is on, there should be power to the fuse panel. We have checked the fuse panel outside and below the driverís side window and everything on the larger left-hand block of fuses (1-36) tests OK. (On Legend, nos. 18, 19 and 20 mention dash power [18 is Point #1 Upper, 19 is Point #2 Lower and 20 is Radio SW], these three fuses test OK.)

There seems to be no power to the two right-hand blocks (37-48) and (49-60), with the exception that there is power to the driverís and passengerís seats (40[-?] on Legend).

Now to my questions: (A) could there be another fuse panel that Iíve missed that might cause the problems mentioned in (1)-(4) above, and (B) how would I test for power to the fuses for the two right-hand blocks (fuses 37-48 and 49-60)? Are these fuses hot only when the button is used?

I hope someone can sort out my questions from this info because I donít know how else to ask them. And I donít mean to be cavalier here but I can identify a wiring diagram when I see one; I just cannot tell what information that diagram is imparting Ė it is simply one-dimensional lines on paper to me.

Thanks.
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Old 11-22-2020, 11:31 AM   #2
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Ok ; I'll try and be of some help , I've downloaded your pictures and perhaps the size that you posted is the issue with them posting upside down . I tried to resize and repost but the loss of clarity was such that they'd be useless.

That aside , your issues are all with Forest River installed items .
The " Ignition Relay " on the board has to be tested first , either the activation signal from the ignition switch isn't there or the relay isn't connecting to power the items ( fuses ) in the panel .
If you go through your list of non functioning systems , I think you'll see what I mean ; systems related to driving the vehicle , vs , systems that should operate when the vehicle isn't being driven.

Do you have a multi-meter or a 12 volt test light ?

I'll try and mark some test points , on your photo and see if I can repost it right side up.
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Old 11-22-2020, 12:26 PM   #3
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I'm just playing around with your pics to see if local editing and reposting will work but even if it does work, as Skip426 says, the resolution may not be identical to what you initially uploaded so I'm not sure if they'll do any good either.

eta: ok, I think I saved your initial resolution

.
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Old 11-22-2020, 12:54 PM   #4
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Ok, now that I have your photo , I can see you have a multi meter sitting ready to use .

On the " Ignition Relay " with the coach ignition key on , you should have chassis battery voltage at all three of the colored arrows I've added to your photo .
If you have no volts at the , green arrow , and have volts at the blue arrow ; the relay is defective and will have to be replaced . White wire from the relay's second small terminal, is a ground connected to the buss bar above the fuses . You could check it for continuity .
No power at the blue arrow , would indicate a possible problem with a fuse in the Freightliner fuse box , or the coach ignition switch.
Power at all three arrows and still no power at the fuses ( for the non functioning circuits ) then the panel would have to be removed to check for a bad connection in the wiring behind the board.
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Old 11-22-2020, 01:11 PM   #5
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I see a 20a fuse identified for "dash power point #1 upper" and "dash power point #2 lower" that may be the DC sockets? ...does fuse #18 check ok?

And am I understanding that you're not getting any power at all to 37 through 60? ...so no air horn, no keyless entry, no LP detector, no leveling jacks, no baggage door locks, no fog or driving lights, no docking lights, no dash fans, etc. etc.?
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Old 11-22-2020, 01:25 PM   #6
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Salesman switch been accidentally knocked to off position?
Batteries voltages check ok?
Mechanical disconnect in on position?

A couple simple checks at the power source
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Old 11-22-2020, 07:55 PM   #7
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Thank you, thank you

My brother, Charles, who is trying to help me sort out this problem, and I want to thank you so much Skip426, theroc, and gnvrvin for your replies and suggestions, they have each been so helpful.

Hopefully weíve caught all the questions and answer them here. Fuses 1-36, including 18, 19 and 20, did test OK with a test light. As far as I can tell, there is no power to any of fuses 37 thru 60. The reason these two blocks were mentioned at all is because there is power to the driverís and passengerís seats (which, if Iím reading the Legend correctly, is fuse 40), the seats can be adjusted forwards and back, up and down, etc. We were not sure whether the test light was supposed to light up for those fuses.

As far as testing the other systems, air horn, driving lights, dash fan, LP detector (keyless entry and levelling jacks as well as some of the other features mentioned are not present on this coach), I actually didnít try them because I didnít need them while driving Monday afternoon and with that being the case, I didnít want to take any chances that trying these other buttons might cause some system that was working to not work any longer.

We do not believe it is the salesman switch because I have both shore power as well as 12‑volt lights.

Iím not quite sure how to answer the voltages check so Iíll do two parts. First, there had been a Message Center note regarding ďbattery high Ė 15.4 volts with a threshold of 11.6Ē and I mentioned this to Freightliner when I delivered the coach for service. I asked if possibly the alternator needed to be replaced. When the coach was picked up from Freightliner on October 10th, the repair tech said he had found a wire missing from the alternator and had replaced it. He thought that would solve the problem. I did not see a Message Center notice on the 2-mile drive back to the RV park and once set-up again upon return, I did not start the coach before leaving on the 16th.

Second: There is a Volt gauge on the dash with a range of 8 to 18 and three marks between the 8 and 18, the middle one designated as normal. The needle usually rides to the right of but not as much as half way between normal and the next red, I guess 3/4, mark. Not sure which if either of these are responsive to the batteries voltages check suggestion.

As far as the mechanical disconnect, would this be something found in the battery compartment? There are a couple of big red switches there, one turns off the eight 6-volt (house-?) batteries and the other turns off the two engine (chassis-?) batteries.

Also, there are two switches (House Power and Chassis Power) on a panel by the door that are supposed to be turned off when the coach is going to be stored for a period of time. Both of those switches are showing green lights.

We didnít get to do much testing this afternoon as it was raining and cold. But my brother and I are both raring to go Monday morning.

Thanks again to each of you for sharing your time, experience and suggestions with us, we truly appreciate it.
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Old 11-23-2020, 11:25 AM   #8
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Thank You!!!!

Hello and thank you guys so much for all your help.

My brother, Charles, was over here bright and early this morning and we started testing the ignition relay which seemed, according to the arrows, to be fine.

Charles then found a white wire "loosely" attached to the buss bar. When I say "loosely", the wire was securely attached to the bar but jiggled so easily when touched that he started tracing it down till it ended at a bare, unattached end. When we touched that end to the Chassis Disconnect at a point where another white wire was attached - going we know not where - there was a loud pop/click and lo and behold, everything started working again.

When Charles released that white wire and it was no longer making any connection, everything continued to work.

There is another project Charles is doing for me - removing the propane tank as I have gone to an induction cooktop (and I can use the storage) - but we turn the key periodically and try the a/c and the driver's shade and they continue to work. I haven't tried the generator or the air horn just yet but plan to once he gets out from underneath the coach.

Charles has made sure that I know which white wire to touch to which connection in case this happens again while I'm on the road to my Winter Hangout in Livingston, Texas. Hopefully if there's another problem, I can make the connection just enough to get where I'm going and then talk to pros if needed once I get there.

Again, thank you all so much!!
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Old 11-23-2020, 11:42 AM   #9
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Murphy; of " Murphy's Law " fame , says the failure of these systems , will happen at the least opportune time .
If grounding the white wire , got everything working , don't wait for a shut down , supply that bare white wire with a good ground connection .
Take pictures of what you've done , then if you have further issues , provide those pictures to whomever is working with the issue next.
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Old 11-23-2020, 07:33 PM   #10
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You do know when you remove the LP tank the furnaces will not operate, and the furnaces provide the only heat to the basement water bays to prevent freezing in cold weather.
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Old 11-24-2020, 12:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Murphy; of " Murphy's Law " fame , says the failure of these systems , will happen at the least opportune time .
If grounding the white wire , got everything working , don't wait for a shut down , supply that bare white wire with a good ground connection .
Take pictures of what you've done , then if you have further issues , provide those pictures to whomever is working with the issue next.
Words of wisdom...file away for future reference....aka book mark the post
Greg
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