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Dav L · 01-05-2018, 11:25 PM

Polycor: Looking at the 1CM w/ carbon fiber on the backside to reduce weight. Still researching though.

Dav L · 01-06-2018, 11:47 AM

Looks like Polycor goes from $12.20 / sq ft to $30 as raw material.
Comes in 6'x10' slabs and other large formats that would need to be cut to need with a wetsaw.

the lighter 1 cm thick doesn't seem to be any less expensive than the typical 3 cm versions. And variety of stones is less with the thinner.

Getting some quotes for the 1 cm in the lighter colors to keep the space looking larger.

windsorbill · 01-06-2018, 12:35 PM

your talking some serious pocket change for that floor.

Dav L · 01-06-2018, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windsorbill

your talking some serious pocket change for that floor.

I guess it depends on whether it's
Just bedroom
Bedroom plus bathroom
Bed / Bath / Kitchen
Bed/Bath/Kitchen/Living
Bed/Bath/Kitchen/Living/cockpit

Ability to use a hard surface with the slides could be a big determinent

Fiesta48 · 01-06-2018, 01:50 PM

Remember to reduce your cargo capacity by the amount of weight your floor heating and new flooring will add.
Floor heating is not efficient and expensive to operate. Maybe 2-4 times as much as space heaters or propane furnaces.

Dav L · 01-06-2018, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fiesta48

Remember to reduce your cargo capacity by the amount of weight your floor heating and new flooring will add.
Floor heating is not efficient and expensive to operate. Maybe 2-4 times as much as space heaters or propane furnaces.

If I use the Hyrdrohot as the floor heat source, then it shouldn't be any more expensive than the current radiator. That is assuming I use insulation between the basement and floor...the same BTUs are being paid for, and used within the living space.

If switching to Electric...not sure as I don't know how efficient the Diesel fueled Hydroheat is....my fingers are crossed that I still have some Diesel fuel in the tank since it has been running a month in record cold temps.

My bedroom is currently carpet so yes, this will add some weight. But the Sq footage is really small. The bathroom is currently tile so the Polycor might be similar weight...more research required.

Quincy · 01-07-2018, 03:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windsorbill

thanks for that. My carpet's got to go also. I can't find replacement tile to continue the tile from the galley forward, and I'm a little concerned about adding all the weight if I did tile everything. Many people are going to the LVT, but I'm leaning towards the engineered wood.

Also of concern is if the heated flooring stops working, it's not practical to tear up your flooring to repair it.

I would never say never Bill The only thing under the floor is the cable with no splices or connections of any kind. The likelihood of that wire being cut is really very small. Unless, of course, it is under my floor.

Dav L · 01-07-2018, 06:14 AM

Quincy - if Vinyl...would that be glued down to the existing subfloor? If the heat cables are inbetween...what will you use to even things out? A new layer that the cables nestle into? And the vinyl will glue to that?

Quincy · 01-08-2018, 03:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dav L

Quincy - if Vinyl...would that be glued down to the existing subfloor? If the heat cables are inbetween...what will you use to even things out? A new layer that the cables nestle into? And the vinyl will glue to that?

The Vinyl floor we are considering is floating Dav. I think I know what you are suggesting and I share your concern. If the vinyl rests on the wires and is then heated will it swale between them. One of the floor planks is very thin and I would be concerned that would happen. The other is much more sturdy and thicker and I am concerned it would be too high for the slide to work properly especially with the wire underneath and possible insulation. Then there is the insulation which when used with the thicker vinyl will definitely too high for the slide. It would be nice to put the wire between the insulation and the floor tiles where it would create its own indentation in the styrofoam. So much to consider my head is hurting.

Dav L · 01-08-2018, 08:56 AM

Can you put insulation on the top of the baggage compartment, under the floor? I would think 1 inch of double foil layered foam from HomeDepot et al would do just fine. I think that is about R6 or so. Use construction adhesive to apply. A trick is to put the glue in a circle...that circle acts like a suction cup to keep the insulation "up" while it is setting. I would probably also put some cutoff insulation to the baggage floor to prop up the insulation while drying. Certainly start in the farthest corner and work yourself out. The insulation strips no wider than the doors.

My slide has rollers that runs ontop of the carpet. It has indented the carpet / padding along it's track. That tells me the thickness is somewhat critical.

Quincy · 01-09-2018, 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dav L

Can you put insulation on the top of the baggage compartment, under the floor? I would think 1 inch of double foil layered foam from HomeDepot et al would do just fine. I think that is about R6 or so. Use construction adhesive to apply. A trick is to put the glue in a circle...that circle acts like a suction cup to keep the insulation "up" while it is setting. I would probably also put some cutoff insulation to the baggage floor to prop up the insulation while drying. Certainly start in the farthest corner and work yourself out. The insulation strips no wider than the doors.

My slide has rollers that runs ontop of the carpet. It has indented the carpet / padding along it's track. That tells me the thickness is somewhat critical.

When looking under the coach I do not see how I can do the entire floor without using pretty small pieces, even then I wonder if I can get at all the floor. I would be concerned about rainwater getting into the insulation. If I am familiar with the product you are suggesting.