Vacuum flush on 2017 Bounder no stop

[duktale13]

I have a 2017 Bounder 35K with bath and a half, the toilet is a vacuuam flush and the problem i have is after flushing the motor will not shut off. toilets hold water in bowl and i have been told that somewhere ?????? there is probably paper is keeping a flap or something open so it cannot complete the flush.
both toilets flush and work ok but the pump just will not stop running so have to turn off the on and off switch. does any one have an answer or suggstions
thanks
i have used the small packs that you drop in toilet to eliminate smells etc and am wondering if they are not disolving as they are supposed to, but how do I get them to disolve or move on. will now use only liquid help for toilets along with powder Happy Camper

[US1]

Check the pressure valve

[RRR]

Do you ever get the green light?

[SavnTheWales]

Trick is to flush full bowl and hold down for 3 seconds. Most important for 1/2 bath as hose is the longest. If it keeps running then flush again.

Also altitude really affects number of cycles. At sea level mine clunks about 35 times, at 6000+ ft it can go over 100 cycles.

[twinboat]

If the bowls hold water, then the duck bill valves, in the pump, are bad.

If your using any kind of powdered cleaner, stop. The granules can mess up the seal surfaces. Vacuflush sells a liquid cleaner that's safe for the parts.

[US1]

‘IF’ the toilets flush and pull the contents like normal, with the high vacuum pull, then the bills have to be ok, (plus its a only 2017, sans any harsh chemical use) as well as no air leaks in the pump supply side and not any blockage. Otherwise it would not build vacuum. I’d still look at the pressure switch for it to be sticking.
At least this is my line of thinking.

[duktale13]

thanks for all of your suggestions, it is kind of hard to flush at home as no dump so when we go out next week to rv park will try and big time flushing, the dealer where we purchased advises to flood the lines with Dawn soap and lots of water so that is my next plan otherwise may have to take in to dealer or someone who can get it cleared,will keep trying to clear instead of dealer,, ha ha
thanks again for your help

[AZ RV'r]

We had this system in our 2016 bath and a half Bounder and now in our 2 full bath Southwind.

When was the last time you used it? I was told if its too long it just dries out and cracks. Just replaced my pump last moth with a mobile RV tech at my home where I keep the RV. It also wouldn't turn off..... Ever!

It is the heart of your bathrooms and thats why I carry a spare pump because if it goes down and stops pumping.... you cant use either of the toilets.

They told me there is a re-build kit that is less expensive but the RV tech said not to waste my time with it because more than half fail with the rebuild kit within a year. He said he has one guy that has done 3 on the same pump and has spent more than getting a complete new unit. I have ordered mine direct from Fleetwood twice now... one was to keep as a spare that I just installed and the second is now my new month old spare Ill keep underneath.

Lots of people will tell you its the duck bills in my case it wasn't and the unit was leaking too. Turn on your shower head and have it pour water into the 1/2 bath toilet for a few then go underneath and check behind your wet bay connections and see if you find any water leaking. It might be easier to look with a flashlight from the opposite side compartment.

If you need any more help let me know.

[duktale13]

no green light only red and wont stop

[AZ RV'r]

I had that same situation, red light on, motor never stops pumping, mine seemed like it was running at a slightly faster speed. I decided after talking with an RV tech here in Phoenix that several of my friends have used and recommended as good, honest, and knowledgeable ....to change out the pump.

This is what he said to me...

"Most of the time its NOT the duck bills. It takes me the same amount of time / money to change just the duck bills as changing the whole pump. If I change the duck bills, it usually doesn't fix it and now I have to charge you labor to go back and change the pump (separate trip charge) Now we could try the rebuild kit, but if Ive done 50 total, 40 have failed in the 1'st year so I dont recomend it, but its your money.... you know the rebuild kit is about $400.... Seeing that we are sitting here and you have a new pump... I would say put that in and save yourself the aggravation and money of those other choices that will proably fail in the near future."

Im guessing you dont have a spare pump and its your money but Im just telling you what happened to me and which route I decided was best for me.

Hope this helps... If I can help with any questions let me know.

[duktale13]

Originally Posted by RRR

Do you ever get the green light?

no green light only red light but toilets flush

[RRR]

Is this a new to you coach? Has it ever shut off?

Have you looked around and under the propane tank to see if you have a puddle?

Does it seem to be reaching vacuum set point or is it just lazily sucking stuff down? Solids going down? Liquids only?

[hattitude]

Originally Posted by AZ RV'r

I had that same situation, red light on, motor never stops pumping, mine seemed like it was running at a slightly faster speed. I decided after talking with an RV tech here in Phoenix that several of my friends have used and recommended as good, honest, and knowledgeable ....to change out the pump.

This is what he said to me...

"Most of the time its NOT the duck bills. It takes me the same amount of time / money to change just the duck bills as changing the whole pump. If I change the duck bills, it usually doesn't fix it and now I have to charge you labor to go back and change the pump (separate trip charge)

AZ RV'r, I know I posted in your thread too. I didn't quote you to argue or in anyway belittle your experience... I only quoted you, to offer an opposing opinion, to the OP...

I've used vacuflush toilets on 2 different boats over about a 20-23 year period...

The first boat was a single toilet system, with one toilet, one pump, and one vacuum tank. The second boat had two toilets, two pumps, and two vacuum tanks, that led to one large holding tank. I even used a Sealand pump for the overboard discharge on that boat.

I understand these marine/older systems are a little different from the RV systems. The marine system's components seem more robust to me, and a bit larger, but the concept and operation are extremely similar...

I installed and maintained both my systems... I lived aboard the boat with two heads for 14 years... I used the main stateroom head daily, and the guest head when guests were onboard or the main head needed maintenance..

Over those 25 years, I replaced one pump, rebuilt one pump, and replaced the duck bill valves about every 2-3 years on the first system, and about the same on the second boat head I used daily, less frequently on the guest head. I have never had to replace a failed vacuum switch on the vacuum tanks, but have replaced a toilet bowl seal about 4 times total for both systems.

In all the cases, the symptoms were the same as yours... Failure of the pump to shut off. The failure to shut off is due to the inability to build vacuum and/or have the vacuum shut off the pump. The possibilities are; bad/fouled/leaky toilet bowl seal, bad/fouled duckbill valves, bad pump/pump diaphragm, bad vacuum switch, or a leak in the system.

Note the sound of the pump... If it's running rapidly and without laboring, it's not building vacuum. If the vacuum switch were to fail, the pump will slow and start to labor as vacuum builds, but it won't shut off. It may even blow a fuse. The same symptom, laboring pump/possible blown fuse, will be present if the pump/diaphragm were jammed by debris or just a build up of crud over time...

It was MY experience that a constantly running pump, that wasn't laboring, was almost always the duck bill valves... Either a good flush of the system cleared them up if they were fouled, or the valves got warped, worn, and needed replacing. The same symptoms presented for a bad bowl seal, but far less frequent than the duckbill valves.

When clearing/replacing the seal/valves didn't work, I then looked for one of the other causes.. replacing the valves is good preventative maintenance, even if they turn out to not be the problem, this time...

I realize my experience isn't scientific proof, just anecdotal experience...

But at about $35 for 4 new duckbill valves versus over $300 for a new pump... I always checked/replaced the duck bill valves (and/or bowl seal) first... and about 75% of the time, duck bill valves fixed the issue for another several years...

Good luck with your repair...

[AZ RV'r]

I agree "hattitude" you were very helpful and I took your advice and experience before making my decisions too.

I also agree the OP should take all the Information and then do what's best for him.

Duck bills would DEFINITELY be much cheaper route to try first.... and I see your point and I agree that you are probably right that should be his first thing to try to change.

My case was leaking and it was beyond repair.... his situation sounds different then mine.

FYI $903 for my new pump, I have the invoice.... I know you don't have to say it.