Community Forums

Frankintx · 08-01-2019, 04:34 PM

The battery isolator solenoid has been very hot and about 1000 miles back I had to replace the chassis battery switch due to a full meltdown. I did find the main cable going to the switch not very tight and tightened it when I replaced the switch.

I just pointed out the hot battery isolator switch at the RV repair facility. They checked it and said it was defective and probably had corroded contacts and needed replacing which I agreed to have done.

After picking it up and driving to my storage lot, I went to turn off the house and the chassis switches and the solenoid was very hot as before, not able to touch without burning the skin. When I turned the chassis switch off, there was an obvious audible click, as if one turned some manual switches or locks. I do recall my brother stating when you turn the battery switches on, you will hear a click, and I have not been hearing that since replacing the chassis battery switch and thus noticed it this time as a "new" sound.

As this 2005 Monaco Windsor 40' DP was my brothers, I don't have any knowledge about this to know if it is normal or I should seek additional troubleshooting. The coach only has 37,500 miles and was only used 4 times since 2012 when my brother purchased it, so it sat a lot obviously with a twice a year start up by his service tech to check the operation of components and appliances.

Does anyone have any suggestions, comments/advice to offer? Thanks for any input in advance!

twinboat · 08-01-2019, 05:08 PM

First, that switch probably isn't rated to start a diesel engine. Do some research on what replaced it to confirm it can handle 500 or more amps.

Second, most diesel pushers have a isolation solenoid control ( BIRD ) that gives full voltage to close the solenoid and then drops back to 8 or so volts to hold it closed. That prevents the heating your experiencing.

You need to ID what isolation system your MH is using.
If you have a BIRD control, make sure its wired properly. If the isolation solenoid is closing without charging voltage from somewhere, its not working correctly.

96 Wideglide · 08-01-2019, 05:15 PM

Looks like the same chassis battery switch that came on my coach

.

Zigzag03 · 08-01-2019, 05:56 PM

Looks somewhat like Blue Seas battery switch often found in boats these days.

leadman · 08-01-2019, 07:04 PM

If it was mine I would locate the source of the draw that is causing the heat. Whether you do it or take it to a shop is your choice, but I would get it done before something bad happens to your coach.

brokenrule · 08-11-2019, 06:56 PM

Looking at the specs on the typical small was battery switch it looks to be too small for the rig.

Operation: On/Off, Rating: 275A DC Continuous (1hr) , 455A DC Intermittent (5 min), 1250A DC Cranking (10 sec), Voltage: 48V DC, Stud Size: 2x3/8" (10mm)

Frankintx · 08-23-2019, 04:22 PM

Brokenrule - The specs in your reply are the specs of this switch which seemed to be an exact replacement of the one that melted. In your opinion, should it have a higher continuous rating?

Frankintx

brokenrule · 08-24-2019, 09:17 AM

I would get one sized for the inverter and then add another 50A for the other DC loads. That should cover the continuous loads.

1250A DC Cranking (10 sec) should cover if you have to use it for starting in emergency.

They are not pricey switches, it is just a matter of you having the room for it.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...ches/HD-Series