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Old 12-21-2016, 10:59 AM   #15
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I've never been a believer in extended warranties. They are just too expensive for me. I know some folks have come out great with them, but I just can't convince myself that it would be a good investment!
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Old 12-22-2016, 07:36 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
I've never been a believer in extended warranties. They are just too expensive for me. I know some folks have come out great with them, but I just can't convince myself that it would be a good investment!
You are correct, HappyCampers - extended warranties (service contracts) are not good investments. In fact, they are not investments at all. I see them as insurance. As with car insurance, I would buy that whether it was the law or not. I don't buy insurance hoping to "come out ahead" financially. Even though the probability is low that I will have an accident in the near future, I simply do not want to pay the price if my number comes up. If you believe that your future will be pretty much like your past (fairly problem fee), you are predisposed to believing that you do not need insurance or extended warranties. Does that mean I would buy an extended warranty or service contract every time one was offered to me? No. I can afford the $400 vacuum cleaner dying on me, but I would find it painful to write a check for a turbo rebuild (exceeds $4k), engine rebuild ($20K?), or Allison failure. You could afford one of those hickies, but not the extended warranty premium? I traded the $6k premium for the benefit of not worrying about a big financial hit for 4 years if my number comes up.
I think all of this comes down to a person's perception of the risk-reward ratio. And that perception is almost entirely influenced by your life experiences.

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Old 12-22-2016, 08:24 AM   #17
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One issue with buying warranties for older MH's is that if repairs are needed for subsystems in the "house", the warranty company will want to repair the existing part of replace with an equivalent. OTOH if you want to do an "update" in conjunction with the repair then you are left with negotiating with the warranty company with respect to the "betterment" that resulted from the upgrade.

For example, when our Xantrex Freedom MSW inverter started to exhibit intermittent failure of the charger subsection I decided to replace it preemptively, before it failed totally. That, itself, is often an issue with warranty companies because they usually insist on demonstrated failure before they agree to repair.

Furthermore, I had no interest in repairing the MSW unit and intended to replace it with a PSW Magnum. Since the repair would probably have been in the ~$400-500 and the new one cost me ~$1600 plus installation, the benefit of a warranty would have been limited.

Similarly, someone in this thread mentioned having replaced a sound system under an extended warranty. Our MH had a Bose system that failed but I replaced what was by then an outdated analog, 2-channel system with a digital soundbar and Digital Dolby all no more than Bose would have wanted for its repair.

Considering the extremely high quoted costs of a warranty for our then 10-year old Beaver when we bought it 6 years ago, I am pretty confident that I'm at least no worse off not having purchased one. Not many things actually have failed to the point where the warranty would have replaced them and those that have were all replaced with my choice of component, regardless of what the OEM part was.
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Old 12-22-2016, 01:33 PM   #18
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I'm not an owner yet but am thinking along the same lines as the OP for sure. Great info so far and thanks for all those sharing.

Like most people I'm afraid of the catastrophic failure in a DP. A blown head gasket, tranny, or some other part. I don't even know for sure but isn't an engine rebuild well north of 20K? How about a tranny - I've got to think at least 10K. Anyway, with pretty much all my insurance I've always taken the highest deductible I can get but haven't heard of much over a few hundred dollars with RV service plans/warranties.
Your prices are in the right ball park for the repairs you listed, but there is one thing that may alter your thinking. Cummings, the maker of many DP engines like the one I own notes in their manual that the engine is not completely broken in (Read does not get the best fuel economy) until it has 100,000 miles on it. So if you purchase a DP with 50,000 miles, it is not yet broken in. It is not uncommon for these engines and transmissions to make a half million miles without major repairs. The same goes for for the Allison transmission. This of course assumes that service is performed when suggested.

These kinds of mileages are not common on older gasoline engines and that is what makes so many people are afraid of the the older DP units which is OK with me. That lowers my cost :-) (I drive a 2001 as noted below)

One note. In 2007 the EPA changed the rules and require diesel engines to use Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) If you purchase a rig made before that date you avoid the need for DEF. If you purchase a rig between 2007 and about 2010, the DEF tanks were in the wrong places. In fact some new units still have the Def tank in the wrong place. You need DEF at the time you get fuel and at the truck stops the DEF is in the same pump with the fuel. Unfortunately, many rigs have the DEF tank on the opposite side of the vehicle so you must either move the rig or purchase the DEF in plastic cans you can carry around to the other side. Thankfully you only need about 10% a much DEF as you use diesel fuel.


The primary problems you face with the older units is the rubber parts rot with age just like tires. Belts, motor mounts, air ride bags, radiator hoses, fuel lines, suspension parts. etc. These will nickel and dime you to death and still strand you at the most awkward time. This is why my mechanic has standing orders to replace any rubber party that look hard or cracked and I still managed to lose an airbag due to a failed rubber suspension part.

So you can get a good looking, well maintained DP, replace the rubber parts, get an insurance policy if it makes you feel better then drive to your hearts content. You are not likely to wear out the chassis under a DP.
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Old 12-22-2016, 07:53 PM   #19
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Your prices are in the right ball park for the repairs you listed, but there is one thing that may alter your thinking. Cummings, the maker of many DP engines like the one I own notes in their manual that the engine is not completely broken in (Read does not get the best fuel economy) until it has 100,000 miles on it. So if you purchase a DP with 50,000 miles, it is not yet broken in. It is not uncommon for these engines and transmissions to make a half million miles without major repairs. The same goes for for the Allison transmission. This of course assumes that service is performed when suggested.

These kinds of mileages are not common on older gasoline engines and that is what makes so many people are afraid of the the older DP units which is OK with me. That lowers my cost :-) (I drive a 2001 as noted below)

One note. In 2007 the EPA changed the rules and require diesel engines to use Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) If you purchase a rig made before that date you avoid the need for DEF. If you purchase a rig between 2007 and about 2010, the DEF tanks were in the wrong places. In fact some new units still have the Def tank in the wrong place. You need DEF at the time you get fuel and at the truck stops the DEF is in the same pump with the fuel. Unfortunately, many rigs have the DEF tank on the opposite side of the vehicle so you must either move the rig or purchase the DEF in plastic cans you can carry around to the other side. Thankfully you only need about 10% a much DEF as you use diesel fuel.


The primary problems you face with the older units is the rubber parts rot with age just like tires. Belts, motor mounts, air ride bags, radiator hoses, fuel lines, suspension parts. etc. These will nickel and dime you to death and still strand you at the most awkward time. This is why my mechanic has standing orders to replace any rubber party that look hard or cracked and I still managed to lose an airbag due to a failed rubber suspension part.

So you can get a good looking, well maintained DP, replace the rubber parts, get an insurance policy if it makes you feel better then drive to your hearts content. You are not likely to wear out the chassis under a DP.
Great info.... thanks Wizard!

I'm a research junkie on big purchases like a DP. I realistically have another decade or so before I have one. For now I'm just slumming it "camping" in a 35' 5th wheel.
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Old 12-23-2016, 05:13 AM   #20
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Can the policies be broken down to only include the mechanical/electrical/plumbing issues and not the cosmetic (TV's, sound system, furniture, etc.)?
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Old 12-23-2016, 05:38 AM   #21
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I bought a warranty (was transferable) from the previous coach owner (bought used), provider is automotive warranty group. While it was more than $4K, it has a $100 deductible and so far I've recovered almost all of my investment. This week replacing a $2100 inverter cost me a grand total of $260 out of pocket. I never by warranties but in this case I was astounded by the fact it covered most everything, is transferable, cancellable. I owned a boat prior to the RV so I knew repairs would be a constant and likely expensive over time. Glad I bought the warranty. My N=1.
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Old 12-23-2016, 06:16 AM   #22
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Extended warranty vs. cost

Hmmm we are approaching the end of our five year EW. FWIW the cost initially of 5K has been recouped. Dramatically recouped? No about break even or plus on our side. So, I'm also in your shoes, somewhat. I now have a five year old DP that has been maticulously kept and the cost for the next four years insurance is over 6K. A lot of money!! I may be making the wrong decision but I'm going to gamble for the next two years and go it alone however if I were purchasing a used DP even with records I would be inclined to buy insurance. JMO
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Old 12-23-2016, 10:05 AM   #23
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mtofell - Thank for the kind words. I had one more note: There are 5-th wheels that much nicer than my DP. My good friend would have nothing else. As he puts it:

"You can drive your home and tow your car or you can drive you car and tow your home."

There are advocated for both sides. I would never have a 5th wheel, but he is just as adamant that he would never have a motorhome and we have remained friends for over 50 years :-).

Just get out on the road whenever you can in whatever you have and enjoy this great big world we live in.
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Old 12-23-2016, 11:13 AM   #24
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I bought a warranty (was transferable) from the previous coach owner (bought used), provider is automotive warranty group. While it was more than $4K, it has a $100 deductible and so far I've recovered almost all of my investment. This week replacing a $2100 inverter cost me a grand total of $260 out of pocket. I never by warranties but in this case I was astounded by the fact it covered most everything, is transferable, cancellable. I owned a boat prior to the RV so I knew repairs would be a constant and likely expensive over time. Glad I bought the warranty. My N=1.
I am new to all this. You bought a warranty from the owner of the coach you bought? Did nt know of such a practice. Please educate me. Thanks. Oh and which automotive group was it?
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Old 12-23-2016, 11:25 AM   #25
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This is a surprising thread. So many threads I read are adamantly opposed to EW. I guess it all boils down to are you going to bet odd or even.
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Old 12-23-2016, 11:27 AM   #26
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Has anyone ever posted the odds? I bet the insurance company has them. It would b interesting to see em.
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Old 12-23-2016, 06:38 PM   #27
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I'm sure the odds are in favor of the insurance company or they would all be out of business. I still bought one for the peace of mind that it provides me!
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:17 AM   #28
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I found out too late that my rig was as described by one of the others as having been repo'd, a couple of things done to it, fake hand written repair notes and driving it from Az to Wa. Later, I also found that a couple of repairs on the list that were supposed to have been done in a CAT shop were fake also. CAT keeps all those records on file.
I was going to get an after market warranty, but took the advice of several members of this forum and didn't. Burned thru the $3K I would have spent on the warranty in less than a year and most of it was on things that would have been covered. I did get a warranty and I am over what it cost me. Did find out that the A/C compressor for the front A/c is a chassis part though. Durn.
Roll, the dice if you will, but go to Wholesale Warranties and check them out. I went thru them for my toad which I bought used and saved almost $1K from what the dealer tried to sell me.
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