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Old 12-04-2019, 05:53 AM   #15
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Another upvote for Meguire’s Wash and Wax. I also used Chemical Guys car wash with a foam cannon when washing in between as it’s really good at Leaving a near spotless shine if you don’t have deionized water.

The Meguire’s was excellent at removing and keeping the winter water streaks at bay and left a mirror shine on my full body paint. Much easier than a paste wax or liquid wax that you need to let dry to a haze and buff. Generally did twice a year.

Love the foam cannon for washing....
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Old 12-04-2019, 07:58 AM   #16
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Polyglow goes on like a varnish, easy and lasts a long time if you wash it with mild carwash soap. Only for fiberglass, not body paint or metal. It works fantastic but must be put on over 50 degress. 5 coats is best
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Old 12-04-2019, 08:19 AM   #17
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For waxing I've used the liquid Meguiar's Ulitmate Wax once a year or so as needed. For washing I use Meguiar's Gold Class shampoo with a lamb's wool mit and soft bristle brush to reach the upper section followed by a final rinse with deionized water for a spot free rinse. I wash it after returning from each trip before she gets parked in the RV bay so it's clean and ready to go next trip out.

I also use Busch's SS & Chrome polish on the bright work once a year and Busch's Aluminum Polish on my wheels usually twice a year.





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Old 12-04-2019, 10:27 AM   #18
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OP needs to let us know whether the finish is gelcoat or paint. I would not recommend 'auto' waxes on gelcoat otherwise it may turn cloudy over time.
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Old 12-04-2019, 11:17 AM   #19
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OP needs to let us know whether the finish is gelcoat or paint. I would not recommend 'auto' waxes on gelcoat otherwise it may turn cloudy over time.
According to the OPs profile, he has a 2019 Tiffin 33BR, which as with all “recent” model Tiffin Class As, is full body paint (as referenced in my previous post, and hence my response), but certainly not something a lot of folks would necessarily know.

It would be helpful of course if his coach make / model / year was shown in his signature and / or in his post, as well as the type of exterior finish so that everyone would be on the same page in their response / understanding of the post and replies.

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Old 12-05-2019, 01:41 PM   #20
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According to the OPs profile, he has a 2019 Tiffin 33BR, which as with all “recent” model Tiffin Class As, is full body paint
Well if that's true, I've read many times here that a new MH with full body paint should not be waxed for the first 2 years to allow the paint to breath and fully cure. Is that right?
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Old 12-05-2019, 01:56 PM   #21
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Zmotorsport buy your picture it looks like you have a DI rinse if so how do you like and do you get the gallons advertised or close Thank Castaka
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Old 12-05-2019, 02:58 PM   #22
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I use https://shineononline.com/. Cost is about $100, it's a sealer used for fiberglass boats and will last about 2 years for the sides and 1 year for the front cap.
There are many good suggestions above. I agree consider what Tiffin recommends so that you get the right protection for the finish you have.

I considered car wax without polishing compound for my Kodiak Cub because it was recommended in the manual. It would have to be applied at least twice per year and as much as 4 times per year.

I cannot bring myself to do it myself that often. I am tight and therefore unwilling to pay someone else to do it. I took a chance and went with a post made by someone on iRV2 and used Poly Glow. It seems to be the same or similar to the shineononline above.

It is self shining and does not need to be hand polished. It required 4 to 6 coats for my fiber glass wall TT. It will last more than 2 years here in Wisconsin. So, much easier to put on. Requires less frequent application.

The process requires a specially supplied cleaner and a some hand scrubbing to get the bugs and grime off. This made a big difference in appearance. It was much brighter afterwards.

My TT is 2 years old and after cleaning, there was no discoloration or haze present. Applying the Poly Glow did not further improve the appearance.

The big improvement was on the painted steel part. One coat turned dull hazy paint shinny bright and it is still shinny after one summer season.
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Old 12-06-2019, 05:55 AM   #23
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Well if that's true, I've read many times here that a new MH with full body paint should not be waxed for the first 2 years to allow the paint to breath and fully cure. Is that right?
You do bring up a good point on new coaches, but I’ve never heard 2 years.

Below is what came with my coach, and if I remember correctly I was told it was better to wait for 6 months; did my first paint correction (polish) and “waxed” (actually applied a sealant; Griots Poly Wax) about 10 months after it was built.

I did become aware of another coach builder that seemed to have some issues on new coaches about a year or so ago, where the paint was very susceptible to swirls / micro-scratches (including a side conversation I had with an owner who is an avid detailer, and knows what he’s doing) but that almost seemed to be a “point in time” issue affecting a small(er) number coaches more than some larger systemic problem.

Just as a side note, both Tiffin and Newmar have some sort of “alliance” with a company called Mary Moppins for exterior coach care some reason. They are not a car care company, they are a household cleaning products company. I’m not a fan, and feel / know that some of the info they provide their owners on exterior care is out of date, out of context, irrelevant or simply incorrect.

Even some of what is noted in the document below is misleading regarding polishes (they do not protect the finish) and waxes (there is no real benefit other than convenience to some degree in applying a wax / sealant by machine, and no reason at all why you would apply any pressure to create heat in the paint when applying a wax / sealant), and while there are “cleaner” waxes / sealants or “all in one” products that do provide minimal paint correction (polishing) properties, there are many that do not. I’d really like to know if this is a BASF document or a Tiffin document.

So owner beware; use products and follow procedures from a car care company, whether it’s Maguires, Mother’s, Griot’s Garage, Adams, etc., while at the same time be cognizant that the paint on your cars is (probably) a lot more durable that your RV given the differences in how the paint is applied.....

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Old 12-06-2019, 06:31 AM   #24
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Zmotorsport buy your picture it looks like you have a DI rinse if so how do you like and do you get the gallons advertised or close Thank Castaka
Castaka, I like it very much and have gotten quite a bit of life out of the resin. This is my third year and still on same resin with no sign of increasing TDS yet. It sure makes washing these beasts much less time consuming and less I have to drag across the paint as I no longer have to chamois the coach. I just hit the bottom of the windows and the bright work as far as drying, the rest of the coach sheets off with zero film, no streaking and no water spots. Love it and should have done it years ago.

On my YouTube channel I have a two part video of the tank as well as the cart that I fabricated for it.

Mike
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Old 12-06-2019, 06:34 AM   #25
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Well if that's true, I've read many times here that a new MH with full body paint should not be waxed for the first 2 years to allow the paint to breath and fully cure. Is that right?
Two years seems a bit much to me. Back when I was painting show cars and bikes I was using PPG products exclusively and I would tell my clients that they could use a hand glaze for the first bit but hold off using any waxes or sealants for the first six months to allow all of the solvents to completely evaporate.


Even then, I've never been much of a wax or sealant person as I just prefer to keep them clean and use a mild hand glaze to help bead water and remove the very fine scratches in the paint. I did use a sealant on my coach and will on occasion use a polish and sealant on my cars.
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Old 12-06-2019, 07:30 AM   #26
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Even way back in the day 30yrs ago we mostly used lacquer primer and DuPont Centari emamel with hardener .We waited 30 days to sand buff and wax. DuPont Basemaker was better clear coat system for matching OEM you could carefully sand and buff days later if necessary. The new urethane paints harden much faster and completly.
We were very careful with towel scratching while wash and drying fresh paint . We used squeegees and the Absorber chamois .
The DuPont reps had no issue with Meguire glazes but we only used if we had some paint scuffing during reassembly.
None of this painting was over new fiberglass, If that what makes the difference .
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Old 12-06-2019, 08:16 AM   #27
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Thank you zmotorsports think i will be pushing button soon,this helped me confirm my decision.
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Old 12-06-2019, 10:24 AM   #28
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Thank you zmotorsports think i will be pushing button soon,this helped me confirm my decision.
You are very welcome and I don't think you'll be disappointed.
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