Community Forums

RunawayJim · 10-25-2016, 11:28 PM

2000 Holiday Rambler 34. Just noticed water in the front basement storage, drivers side. About a half inch of water on the floor of the compartment and water had pooled on top of a bucket that has a lid on it. I looked up and the roof of the basement storage compartment was wet. Meaning the water did not come through the compartment door. This has happened while the MH was sitting (no driving). It has been raining a bit but I think this is water from the fresh water tank. The fresh water tank was about 1/3 full (I emptied it immediately). Inside there is water right were the carpet meets the wall behind the couch. The wet area extends about 4-6 inches out from the wall (on carpet), and a couple inches up the wall. It is wet all the way from the drivers seat to the fridge (less so starting under the sink. The area behind the couch is the most wet, were carpet meets the wall. It seems like the water is coming up from the floor. I pulled the couch out and pulled up a corner of carpet, but that didn't really tell me anything. Im not sure if its coming from a water line or something outside/seal, window,? Its seems to be right at the floor.

We just got it back from the shop. They did what they called a "house inspection" which included servicing the refrigerator, could this be the problem? This is a major issue as we are supposed to depart next week.

bobcovey · 10-26-2016, 12:18 AM

WAG: Do you have an ice maker in the fridge? This sounds like what happens when the small plastic water line cracks.

Good luck,

imob · 10-26-2016, 09:48 AM

Ok were to start, first yes water can travel up a wall. The materials will absorb it and "wick" upwards. How far depends on the material. If you have an ice maker that is a good place to start. However from your post it seems that it was in storage. What systems were turned on or off? If the fridge was off did ice melt? Was the water pump turned on?

The area of damage will have a pattern to it. It goes from here to here. Usually somewhere close to the middle you will find that it is more wet. Start looking there for possible sources. Also remember that to water there is no such thing as level. It could have flowed out of something, across the floor and pooled when it hit a stop point. Finding the source of a water leak tends to be a forensic investigation. Gather your evidence and do not rule out the simple things.

And above all else make sure you get some fans on the damage area fast, and I mean more then 1.. make a wind tunnel if you can. Also add a dehumidifier. Also remember cold/cool things do not dry well or fast. Get the air temp/surface temp above 85 degrees if you can. The dehumidifier will help with that. The longer it and the materials stay wet the more chance there is for mold growth and long term damage.

RunawayJim · 10-26-2016, 11:08 AM

We do not have an ice maker. All systems/appliances were powered off. I don't believe that the fridge was on long enough for any ice build up.

Now: Getting plugged in, thermo cranked up with an extra heater and fans.

Question: Are there any water lines that would run PAST the kitchen sink? The most water is currently in the living room behind the couch but...

I agree this leak probably originated somewhere else and where the carpet is the wettest has got to be where the water stopped. Due to the coach not being totally level.

Yesterday I flipped on the chassis power and the house power and noticed that the water pump switch was in the on position (switch glows red/and you can hear the pump). Although the pump didn't actually kick on until I flipped both power sources on. (I immediately flipped the switch to the off)

tkcas01 · 10-26-2016, 11:55 AM

I had a mystery wet spot on the carpet and it turned out being from a cracked faucet connection in the shower - almost 10 feet away. Apparently the water was just running along the wall, under a slide before it spilled out on the carpet.

I suppose one way to test if it is an inside water leak is to turn on the pump and see if the pump runs any when no faucets are open.

Did you check the roof-to-sidewall seam over the driver area? I've seen that separate a bit and let water down in the wall.

imob · 10-26-2016, 01:46 PM

Ok some good info there. So all the electric was off and the pump did not kick on till you hit the main power. No ice maker and the fridge was not normally left on. So that leads to a passive water source. If it was a fresh water issue it would have to be at some point before the pump, unless in bypass mode. Even if there is a leak in a pipe without the pump on not munch is going to come out because there would have to be a point to allow air in.

Is your hot water heater in that area? Also check the window above the couch. Like I said do not rule out the simplest things. Take a hose and try soaking the window area and see if you get any new water. Also the roof. Anytime there is a exterior water penetration question the best thing to do is soak the area with a hose. A hose will put down more water in a specific are then any rain storm and can be very effective to find the area that needs to be fixed.

mel s · 10-26-2016, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RunawayJim

2000 Holiday Rambler 34.

We just got it back from the shop. They did what they called a "house inspection" which included servicing the refrigerator, could this be the problem? This is a major issue as we are supposed to depart next week.

RunawayJim
Unfortunaly it could.

Why did you have a shop to do a "house inspection which included servicing the refidgerator"?
Was there something wrong with your RV or with the refidgerator in your RV that thought need to be fixed?
(OR where you simply curious)?

Wondering

Mel
'96 Safari

RunawayJim · 10-26-2016, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by imob

Ok some good info there. So all the electric was off and the pump did not kick on till you hit the main power. No ice maker and the fridge was not normally left on. So that leads to a passive water source. If it was a fresh water issue it would have to be at some point before the pump, unless in bypass mode. Even if there is a leak in a pipe without the pump on not munch is going to come out because there would have to be a point to allow air in.

Is your hot water heater in that area? Also check the window above the couch. Like I said do not rule out the simplest things. Take a hose and try soaking the window area and see if you get any new water. Also the roof. Anytime there is a exterior water penetration question the best thing to do is soak the area with a hose. A hose will put down more water in a specific are then any rain storm and can be very effective to find the area that needs to be fixed.

Imob, I think you are absolutely correct. I pulled out the Rug Doctor and started sucking up the water. I noticed that after I had sucked up the majority of the water I would come back to a spot that was dry a minute ago and it was wet again. The area was about a foot behind the drivers seat right where the carpet meets the wall. It was raining pretty good the whole time. So I went outside and noticed that there was a very concentrated stream of water coming off the roof. Right at the end of the little gutter where the top cap just starts to curve (right between the drivers door and the window. The stream/waterfall is about 12'' wide The stream of water is hitting two seams both horizontal. The first is well caulked and runs between the drivers side door and the window. The next one down is the main seal/trim piece that runs all the way around the coach. Its the floor seam where the floor meets the storage. Funny thing I just bought 100' of new trim to replace the old because the old stuff is original and discolored. I replaced the trim on the other side of the coach but have not yet gotten to the other side (leaking side). Anyway you can see a slight gap between the side of the coach and the medal strip that the trim pops into. This little gap is exactly where the wettest spot is on the inside

Hello Mel,
We had them do a bunch of stuff. Tires, balancers, brakes, fix hydraulic hose fitting. They offered a "house inspection" which was a complete waste of money. I don't want to get into it too much but let me say this has been quite a learning experience in dealing with an RV dealer/shop. The shop is about an hour round trip from our house. It took me 3 times of driving down there and explaining how the balancers needed to be installed before they got it right. Our coach was there for over a month. They lost our original set of keys (luckily we had a back up set). I could go on.

imob · 10-26-2016, 09:37 PM

Glad you were able to find the leak.

mel s · 10-27-2016, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RunawayJim

Hello Mel,
We had them do a bunch of stuff. Tires, balancers, brakes, fix hydraulic hose fitting. They offered a "house inspection" which was a complete waste of money. I don't want to get into it too much but let me say this has been quite a learning experience in dealing with an RV dealer/shop. The shop is about an hour round trip from our house. It took me 3 times of driving down there and explaining how the balancers needed to be installed before they got it right. Our coach was there for over a month. They lost our original set of keys (luckily we had a back up set). I could go on.

RunawayJim
I understand your frustration.

There are far more "RV repair horror stories" than there are "happy endings".
Repair shops that do RV work that's both satisfactory and reasonably priced are rare, (in fact my coach has never seen one).

Mel
'96 Safari, 148k miles, (121k mine)

RunawayJim · 10-28-2016, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mel s

RunawayJim
I understand your frustration.

There are far more "RV repair horror stories" than there are "happy endings".
Repair shops that do RV work that's both satisfactory and reasonably priced are rare, (in fact my coach has never seen one).

Mel
'96 Safari, 148k miles, (121k mine)

Good to know I'm not alone I guess. That's too bad its so hard to find good work. I'm seriously considering taking one of the 5 day courses on rv maintenance. Its a bit of an investment cost wise at $1650 bucks, but a shop bill can add up to that in no time.

RunawayJim · 10-28-2016, 09:00 AM

I pulled up the carpet last night to get a better look at the damage. Today I will begin cutting out and replacing the damaged areas on the floor and possibly tackling the wall as well. The floor repair is pretty straight forward. The wall I'm not as confident on. The wall material is Styrofoam with a thin layer of wood ( I think Luan ). Is this a product that can be bought off the shelf at a big box store (depot/lowes?) and does it have a trade name? I'll be ripping out the rest of the carpet today and after the repairs are done replace it with something or than carpet. Possibly linoleum. Definitely not carpet.
Cheers
Tyler