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Old 04-21-2020, 10:22 AM   #15
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on sprung coaches, weight distributing hitches are ok where there is no frame extension, or an extension done haphazardly.
ive seen frames extensions fail because of overweight trailers using distributing hitches. i even had one fail when the welding on the receiver failed. dont exceed the rating on the decal posted on the rear of your rv. if there is one.
as said, its not necessary on air suspension, unless you use it for anti sway. as i understand that principle.
on sprung coaches, just be sure your frame is ok, and they will work ok.
use common sense. i heard a saying. "if common sense were crisco, some people couldnt grease a pie dish."
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Old 04-21-2020, 11:31 AM   #16
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WDS helps to redistribute the tongue weight between the trailer and tow vehicle, as you may know.

Make sure your hitch height is set to tow your trailer level - you may need an adjustable hitch in the receiver for that. Generally you want the hitch and ball to be within 3" vertically max. if I remember correctly.

You should also make sure your tow-behind has good balance so it will not be prone to swaying - tongue weight should be about 10% of the total trailer weight - if it does tend to sway - use the WDS with integrated sway.

If you hook up and find the front of your MH goes up and rear goes way down you should get a WDS to help distribute the load. You need to keep the front of the MH down for proper handling.

WDS is not rocket science - you can pick them up from Harbor Freight very reasonably priced and virtually identical to most others on the market for 1/3 the price. Check the specs for load compliance.

I always used to weld the trailer-side brackets to the trailer frame rather than mess around with the scary clamp on brackets...

I also used to carry a length of 1" pipe to use as a lever to attach the WDS arm chains (or levers, whichever you might have).
This was my original response to OP regarding WDS. I was NOT familiar with his MH and completely neglected the actions of air suspension - which would automatically level the MH making a WDS kinda useless - except possibly for some help if the towed vehicle tended to sway due to it's loading issues.

VERY APTLY other members of our community pointed out that the air suspension on OP's MH would nullify my comment.... The moderators have said there is (seldom) a valid way to edit a post - so I'm replying to my own to add the following clarifications:

If your MH DOES NOT have air suspension, AND when your trailer is hooked up you notice your front end going up and the rear of the MH going down, then a WDS can benefit. If you DO HAVE air suspension, the WDS will provide little benefit beyond peace of mind or some additional help if your trailer tends to sway more than the rear suspension of the MH can counteract.

As always - thanks gang for keeping the best information availble and for helping to correct misinformation when it shows up.

Keep helping us all stay on the road (when we're allowed to get back there).
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Old 04-21-2020, 11:54 AM   #17
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Thank you so much for all the inputs; much appreciated. I will have to reconsider my options. Now I fully understand the mechanics of it. I am pre-ordering what is needed before I pick up the coach on mid-May.

I will have to mention though, that the stacker trailer is tri-axle which many of you will agree is better.

Thanks!
Roy
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Old 04-21-2020, 12:07 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by roymalinao View Post
Thank you so much for all the inputs; much appreciated. I will have to reconsider my options. Now I fully understand the mechanics of it. I am pre-ordering what is needed before I pick up the coach on mid-May.

I will have to mention though, that the stacker trailer is tri-axle which many of you will agree is better.

Thanks!
Roy
Yes a tri-axle trailer almost will not sway unless hooked to a lighter shorter wheelbase tow vehicle with less than 10% of the weight on the tongue. Even then it resists swaying more so than dual axle trailer. It takes a lot to cause that 42,000# coach with 28,000# on the rear axles to sway.
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Old 04-28-2020, 02:12 PM   #19
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It's your money so you can do whatever you want. Before you spend it, have someone explain to you how a 16,000# trailer (tail) is going to "Wag" a 44', 42,000# coach (dog) with a long wheel base. As I posted before, I had both and the only benefit is that I "thought" I was more stabil. It definitely was not worth the cost. Years ago, I parked with three rigs with stackers from NY on their way to Vegas for drag race Nationals. None of them had WD hitches.



Can you recall what hitch setup they were using? A simple receiver hitch with a ball mount, or something more complex?
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Old 04-28-2020, 04:01 PM   #20
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Can you recall what hitch setup they were using? A simple receiver hitch with a ball mount, or something more complex?
I only looked at one. It was a standard receiver type, but it was a heavier hitch that my 15,000# one. The one on my sons Newell is a lot beefier than mine, but still a standard receiver/ball type.
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Old 04-28-2020, 08:21 PM   #21
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I have done some towing. 20' trailer with a 3/4 ton truck. 24' trailer with a one ton dually. Always used a Good WD hitch.... I have tried it both ways with my 32' tri axle behind my Dynasty. Can not really say there is a benefit.

I do use a Friction sway control.
I also use a GenY torsion hitch.
I think this helps take some of the harsh road shock off of the trailer and the coach.

Inspect your hitch regularly.
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