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Old 03-04-2018, 07:55 AM   #15
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252 volt is just fine line to line. Actually most equipment will run longer and more efficiently on a higher voltage than a lower voltage. Your voltage is just fine with in a + or - 5%
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:20 AM   #16
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Plus one on loose connections. The transfer switch - in my opinion - should be opened and connections checked/ tightened annually. Likewise, you should disconnect all power and batteries and turn off the inverter to check connections in the main electrical panel and the hard wired EMS - if you have one. Class A RVs generally use the same type of panel used in homes. Obviously, it endures more vibration than a home panel and that vibration can impact the connections. Be careful doing this or get an electrician if you are uncomfortable.
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:14 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by shiggs68 View Post
Where did you measure 252 volts. You should only have 120 vac at any outlet and 240vac from hot to hot one the 50amp Service.
I watched as the ranger plugged in the voltmeter into the plugs. It was good signal and same throughout the park that all run on same line. I should note the 110 outlet has continued to work and runs on the same circuit. In other words, if the 50a wasn't working properly, then the 30a and 20a wouldn't be either unless it was a bad plug. We checked that together and it was not their outlet.
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:20 PM   #18
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Plus one on loose connections. The transfer switch - in my opinion - should be opened and connections checked/ tightened annually. Likewise, you should disconnect all power and batteries and turn off the inverter to check connections in the main electrical panel and the hard wired EMS - if you have one. Class A RVs generally use the same type of panel used in homes. Obviously, it endures more vibration than a home panel and that vibration can impact the connections. Be careful doing this or get an electrician if you are uncomfortable.
This is about the best we can figure. If course, that can be anywhere. One fact that I didn't bring up before that may be relevant. We didn't even think that there may be a connection with an electrical issue, but this issue started occurring within a day of the dealer replacing our water pump. I'm not sure if there's a connection there or not but it is an awfully strange coincidence that that is when this issue started. I did look at the water pump since thinking about this and didn't say anything wrong but then again I did not install it. Any thoughts on the water pump installation being a Cause?
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:32 PM   #19
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Off hand I don't see a connection between the 12 VDC water pump and the 120/240 VAC feed. Add me to the list of folks who would check/tighten the connection on the transfer switch and panel.
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:48 PM   #20
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Sorry to hear about your issue, but I am confident you are in the right place for the resolution. A shot in the dark, but maybe try checking your 110 volt panel feeds where incoming power is connected to the panel box are tight and clean.
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Old 03-05-2018, 10:02 AM   #21
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So as an update, tell me if this adds to the conversation. It did go out again yesterday. We've tried doing several things when this happens. One thing we do is not just unplug, but keep it unplugged for 20-30 minutes. Weirdly, 2 out if 3 times when we plug it back in, 50A service comes back.

Then today, we talked to the dealer who said based solely on my description that it sounds like the inverter, and I didn't even mention to him that I was thinking of that as a possibility.

So does this info help anyone with a diagnosis?
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Old 03-05-2018, 10:29 AM   #22
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Your AC does not work from a inverter outlet directly from your load center circuit beaker.
Transfer switch problems and what to do.
The results of loose wiring in TS.
Fluctuating voltages through your surge protector will cut off power, cool down will reconnect power.
More information on TS & Surge Protectors IN THIS LINK.
Checking your TS should be a yearly routine on your check list, road vibrations will loosen up stranded wire cables leads, plus flatten them making space in connection.
While your doing your check list add your load center wiring and 12v fuse panels also, I am sure you will find some lose connections which create heat, bad news for wiring.
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Old 03-05-2018, 10:36 AM   #23
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I would definitely check the TS wiring and re-tighten if necessary. Remember no, no loctite. Loctite is basically a plastic and will insulate the connection. My electric fireplace mains connection goes through a terminal block and the electrical connection loosened just a little and melted the plastic the block due to the heat created by the loose connection. Remember to disconnect all your electric before getting into the TS. There are leathel voltages in there.
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Old 03-06-2018, 07:00 AM   #24
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The problem with electrical connections of big bundles of stranded wire is the wire bundle changing size as the strands ****. Any thread locker will not prevent that but will mess up tightening the next time.

The way around the clamping problem with screw clamped terminals is to use crimp on connectors to terminate the wire. The crimpers have enough pressure to turn the bundle into a solid. Then the problem becomes securing the other end of the crimped on lug. That has it's own problems. You are right if you think we never win.
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Old 03-06-2018, 05:43 PM   #25
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My guess is your transfer switch is bad. If the problem occurs again, take the end of a hammer or end of a large screwdriver and "whack" the transfer switch box. If the power comes back on, your transfer switch is bad or the wires are loose. You didn't say if you went in and tightened the transfer switch wiring after mentioned above.
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:33 AM   #26
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Well this little gremlin has been quiet for the past 2 days. However, the advice about the transfer switch is a good idea. I did check and found nothing loose or more importantly burnt. I'm going to keep a close eye on this area though as it seems to be one of the more likely causes. Excellent responses. Thank you
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Old 04-21-2018, 09:12 AM   #27
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An update. After that last park, no issues. We think (thought) that it must have been the park. Now after going to about 10 different parks since then, it reappeared yesterday. Any new thoughts?
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:28 AM   #28
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An update. After that last park, no issues. We think (thought) that it must have been the park. Now after going to about 10 different parks since then, it reappeared yesterday. Any new thoughts?
Best guess.... if you have a plug in cord on the coach end, is to check it for good contact. These are usually twist-loc in design, so first check for burned contacts and then for re-seating and tightness. After that, open the transfer switch, being sure to disconnect from all sources and checking for voltage present. Most sure you'll find some looseness among the connections if you'll try tightening them down and most never bother to check until there's a problem. After that restore power and watch it's operation, but doubtful if any relay has an intermittent problem.
Actually nothing should take place with shore power as this source is directed through the normally closed contacts. It's with the genset running, that the N.O. contacts close and as a result is the default power source, whether plugged in or not.
All this is typical of transfer switches and doesn't apply to coaches that have their own separate plug-in for the genset.
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